Hey everybody-
I just ordered a set of raceconcept dimpled/slotted rotors and pads and had some questions before installing them myself.

I read a couple of days ago about removing stuck rotors but couldn't find the thread (even after searching). Does anyone know what the size of the bolts are for removing stuck rotors? And what was the other way of removing them?

Also, since I am changing my rotors and not just the pads, can I just slip the caliper off without removing the brake lines and avoid bleeding the brakes? Will the calipers clamp down after I slip them off the rotor? I heard I can just pry them apart to slip them back on...

Plus can I also leave the parking brake cable line on too for the rears when I remove the calipers for the rears?

I read in the searches and guys like McGyvr, OZ GS Chad and FasterGS said this is super simple to do. Any advice would be great. Thanks for helping a nervous brother out.

You called me out.....

Yeah it was a really easy job. Just 2 bolts to take the caliper assembly off. No need to disconnect brake line or bleed the brakes or anything. You may need something to support your caliper while you mess with the rotor like a wire hanger and hang it from the suspension. You just don't want to have it stressing your brake lines.

Once the caliper is off there is nothing holding the rotor on. If its siezed to the hub the right way is to use a bolt in the provided whole to pull it free (not sure on the size though). My way was to use a hammer since I no longer needed the stock rotors. One swift whack and it was loose. With the caliper loose and rotor out of the way I just went ahead and replaced my pads. Old ones out, cover off the master cylinder, pressed the piston back with my quick grip clamp, and installed the new pads with some no squeak stuff.

Then position the new rotor on and reattach the caliper assembly. Wheels back on, cover back on the master cylinder and you are all set. I may have missed something but that should be the basics. It is a really easy job and should not take you that long.

Good luck and if you have any questions feel free to email me or something.

chad@isitthechad.com

Chad

MODS:
3" PVC CAI, GST Muffler, Greddy 4-1 Header, AFX UDP, 55 mm bored TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Corbin intake spacer, gutted cat, Apexi S-AFC, KYB AGX Struts, Eibach Prokits, Excel TZ-10 Rims

I believe it's a metric 8MM bolt that will fit into the rotors. This method worked out very well for me.

I didn't remove the brake lines to change my calipers and rotors, but you should bleed you brakes anyway.

I pushed the piston back into the caliper with a C-clamp and a small piece of wood. Keep an eye on your brake fluid resevoir and make sure it doesn't overflow.

-J

Yeah, c clamp to push the piston back in the caliper. You should bleed the brakes anytime you unmount the caliper IMO. My rotors were seized up pretty good, but a rubber mallet did the trick for me. There really isn't anything difficult at all about brakes.

Yeah, C Clamp that caliper, don't ever "pry" anything with your brakes

thanks guys...I feel way more confident now...a chilton's manual can only make you feel a little secure.

heh heh....how big/small of a c- clamp do i need?