I have a problem with all the strut bars that are out. They all don't seem to work like they should, especially the 'adjustable' ones.

There are not alot of strut bars out there that are one solid piece of metal like the Neuspeed 'fifth' bar. It makes sense for a brace to be one continuous and solid piece of metal. There are no weak points for it to bend, so it pretty much holds it's shape no matter what.

But then there are the adjustable ones with more then one piece. My rear stb, for example, was from ebay, and even though the bar is pretty thick, the brackets between the strut tower and the bar itself seems so thin and oddly shaped that I believe it's just flexing with the chassis whenever stress is put on it. Seems to me it's more for looks then function.

So then my conclusion is any strut brace that is more then one piece must be poorly designed, because in my limited knowledge of physics, those thin brackets, and nuts and bolts for the 'adjustability' of the strut bar are taking the brunt of all the chassis flex. Unless they are super tough metal bolts, then they are just bending with the chassis. You get what i'm saying?

Thank god for the neuspeed bar, boo on all adjustable stbs.

I wonder if neuspeed will make a rear bar.

16.1 @ 87.11
http://www.virtuallyinfamous.com

ARD 57mm tb and p&p manifold, Neuspeed STB, Pro-kits, Illuminas, Injen CAI with K&N, 2.5" pacesetter catback,
AF/X UDP, Rear STB, Powerslot rotors, RRE SS Brakelines.

I agree, the bar will flex at it's weakest points, aka the brackets and adjusting screws. When I recieved my bars, I figured that would be the weakness of my bars. However, I haven't had any problems with my adjustable ebay bars. They have really improved my cornering, and overall handling. However, I've only had both on for about a week, and with the road conditions (snow, rain, etc.) I haven't had an opportunity to put them to the test. However, I would rather pay $25 for bars which moderately increase handling than $80+ for bars that may or may not perform better. I think a better option would be to weld a steel pipe (or similar) across the struts, seems like it would be stronger (and stronger; talking about rear strut of course).

97 Eclipse GS
- Ebay CAI
- Ebay Dual Tip Muffler
- Ebay Front and Rear Strut Bars
- Energy Suspension Motor Mounts

my dumbass traded my homie my nuespeed bar for his crappy ebay one. the neuspeed one was bending down the little black box for the throttle linkage/cruise and since the instructions that came with it said it was for turbo i thought i'd be better off with his bar.

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

From an engineering standpoint the weakest point of those no-name strutbars are the flanges that connect the bar to the mounting flange.

If you really want to stiffen up the chassis you would connect the strut towers using a triangulated member. In other words it would connect to the strut towers and then to one more point (3 points total). For a front strutbar I would have it connect to the firewall.



However if you are going to connect them using a single bar I would not weld the bar to the mounting flange but would use a pin or bolt that allows the bar to rotate relative to the mounting flange. If it is welded when the car flexes it will have a tendency to bend (red arrow) the bar. A thin narrow bar will not resist bending very well. On the other hand if the bar is allowed to rotate relative to the mounting flange the bar can’t be bent by the flexing of the chassis (the rotating motion won’t be transferred to the bar because the bar is free to rotate) and will instead be pushed on by the mounting flange (black arrow). The bar will do much better being compressed than being bent.



However I’m not saying that the Neuspeed bar is as bad or worse than a no-name bar only because I can’t vouch for the workmanship and sturdiness of the no-name bar and the Neuspeed looks like a very hefty piece of material.

-J

I must say that the no name bars DO work. Albeit, maybe not better then a neuspeed. But on a budget, or for those just looking for bang for the buck factor, the cheepies are good. Another thing to remeber though is that when most people buy the ebay bars, they know that they are buying cheap shit, and that it very well may be.....shit. I love my bars.....$50 for the set and I noticed an improvement in overall handling. I would LOVE to have a Neuspeed bar, don't get me wrong, as i believe they are much superior to adjustables, but the cash flow just doesn't call for that right now.

Cliff notes: Cheap ebay stuff is good for performance on a budget, neuspeed is a much better product and hella sturdier, but for most drivers, not a total neccessity for the xtra dough. IMO.

Nice post squid, it makes more sense now.

But damn it, mine doesn't look like your picture. It has a weird shaped bracket that looks like this:

BAR|---|
BAR| |STB

I guess it's time to trade in my ebay bar for another ebay bar designed better.

And yea, I agree, the adjustable bars do improve handling (anything is better then stock right?), but you know what i mean, it could be better. Especially when Stillen and others are making 150 dollar bars that look like the ebay bars.

16.1 @ 87.11
http://www.virtuallyinfamous.com

ARD 57mm tb and p&p manifold, Neuspeed STB, Pro-kits, Illuminas, Injen CAI with K&N, 2.5" pacesetter catback,
AF/X UDP, Rear STB, Powerslot rotors, RRE SS Brakelines.

your v drawing reminds me of the LFTB. i havent seen a pic of hurricane_GS's front lower tiebar but my friend has a FL tiebar on his gst and it looks like

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

The bottom horizontal line is supposed to be the firewall and the two circles are supposed to be the strut towers.

Mystic I don't understand what your strut bar looks like, if you had a picture that would be great.

-J

>

The only problem I would see with this design is, I really don't think the firewall is strong enough to support it. What do you think

Allan
2008 Magnetic Black 350z NISMO /1976 Austin Mini 1098 Special (export)

Member# 1980

If i had to do it over again. I would go with the Sprint FSTB!

05 STi

Do you have pics of the sprint thingy?

Allan
2008 Magnetic Black 350z NISMO /1976 Austin Mini 1098 Special (export)

Member# 1980

The strongest point would be to brace the car from below. An X-Brace would do far more than any bar. A nice roll bar or 4-point cage would make a big difference too and could be made to be non-intrusive.

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise

>>
>
>The only problem I would see with this design is, I really
>don't think the firewall is strong enough to support it. What
>do you think

I think the firewall could handle being a support for a brace. I’m not 100% sure because I haven’t taken apart the dash, but the firewall is usually used as a bulkhead. There are parts of it that are nothing more than sheet metal, but the upper part normally acts as a brace between the two sides of the car

-J

The bulhead (firewall) in our cars are not strong enough to help. But the triagulation theory is correct. My upper front will be coming very soon!

**********************************

Hurricane_GS
AKA: Glenn H. Shelton III
Saint Cloud, FL
1997 Eclipse GS Non-Turbo
eclipse@greenliquid.com
http://www.hurricanegs.com

I can’t wait to see a sketch of your strutbar. Post it as soon as you can.

-J

Posted here:

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=6&topic_id=16165&mesg_id=16165&page=

**********************************

Hurricane_GS
AKA: Glenn H. Shelton III
Saint Cloud, FL
1997 Eclipse GS Non-Turbo
eclipse@greenliquid.com
http://www.hurricanegs.com

I've also heard from an experienced road racing shop that the neuspeed bars have a primary weakness due to the 90 degree bends on the two ends. I think it would be a lot stronger if it did not have those curved bends.

________________________________________

2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

I agrre that the Neuspeed bar's weakness is the way it is attached. So far the bast strut bar that I've seen is the Greddy. However they don't make one for the 2G eclipse. The best I've seen so far for the 2G Eclipse are Glenn's ideas. However I still think the ends should allow rotation so that they don't bend the strut bar as the car flexes.

-J

why can't you just have the best of both worlds

those cheap ebay bars do work, but to get the most out of them you gotta make your you tighten them well. You have to tighten it so when you hit it with your first it makes a big thunk sound not a ding, or metal on metal noise. it shouldn't move at all. Of course it not super stiff since it aluminum and its gonna give some but it shouldn't bend a whole lot.

http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?