Finally got through to Stillen and got the specs on their sway bars.

stock: front - 0.7500 inches
rear (GS) - 0.5120 inches

Stillen: front - 0.7500 inches
rear - 0.7500 inches
$175 ( http://www.stillen.com/sportscars_detail.asp?cat=5&subcat=&id=1804&page=1 )


RMDSM: front - 0.8125 inches
rear - 0.6875 inches
$300 ( http://www.rernetworking.com/rmdsm/stabilizerbars.html )

Well, RMDSM claims to have neutral or slight oversteer tendencies on their bars.. and by the specs of the Stillen bars, it seems that all they did was stiffen up the rear, but way more then rmdsm bars, which to me, makes it seem like it would oversteer ALOT.

Great price on the Stillen bars though. Hope you guys appreciate me waiting on the phone for 15 min getting Stillen's specs.

16.1 @ 87.11
http://www.virtuallyinfamous.com

ARD 57mm tb and p&p manifold, Neuspeed STB, Pro-kits, Illuminas, Injen CAI with K&N, 2.5" pacesetter catback,
AF/X UDP, Rear STB, Powerslot rotors, RRE SS Brakelines.

hmmm, i've considered getting sway bars. what exactly do they do? brace the suspention together better than stock? i have an ESi and i hear that i need additional hardware or something if i want to get some...

...if there's any way to tune the suspention for more oversteer i'm all for it.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Since the new software deleted my posting , I'll just summarize briefly:

Antisway bars basically lock both sides of the suspension together. Basically if one spring gets pushed on, the sway bar will distribute some of the force to the other side.. .this basically doubles the spring rate for the car.

For more info on oversteer/understeer visit: http://www.rmdsm.com

For more info on sway bars, this link was pretty good: http://www.stealthtdi.com/SwayBars.html

For more info on installing a rear swaybar in base RS or ESI models, good writeup on corbin's site: http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/sway.html

16.1 @ 87.11
http://www.virtuallyinfamous.com

ARD 57mm tb and p&p manifold, Neuspeed STB, Pro-kits, Illuminas, Injen CAI with K&N, 2.5" pacesetter catback,
AF/X UDP, Rear STB, Powerslot rotors, RRE SS Brakelines.

basically antiway bars connect both sides of the car so pressure will be equalized on the springs on each side of the axle eliminating alot of body roll.

http://www.ocaddict.com

thanks beefgg for the sig

Save your $$$ and find a wrecked 2g AWD. Rear sway bar diameter .75". Cost $40. You will need to make 2 blocks (aluminum or steel) for the frame mounts and get longer bolts, since the bar sits further away from the frame. I'll take pics next time I'm under my car.

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

You sure the GSX rear bar is .75? On the rmdsm site it says factory rear bar for gsx is .7188.

Regardless, 40 bucks is an awesome price for what it is.

16.1 @ 87.11
http://www.virtuallyinfamous.com

ARD 57mm tb and p&p manifold, Neuspeed STB, Pro-kits, Illuminas, Injen CAI with K&N, 2.5" pacesetter catback,
AF/X UDP, Rear STB, Powerslot rotors, RRE SS Brakelines.

I mic'd mine last night and it measured .738 Close enough to .75 for me. Another .012" isn't worth another $150 IMO.

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

...you'd get the RMDSM GSX set for your car. It doesnt fit all mufflers though (it will fit stock). This is the set I run. If you've moved weight to the rear of your car then it will be more neutral. I have a battery, 12"sub and amp all back there, so it oversteers just a little more than stock with my shocks set to 3 in the front and 2 in the back on illuminas. With those settings I have a lot of room to dial in a lot of oversteer if needed.

*Skrilla
"Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me"
Talon: 1st 2.4L
'97 Prelude
'04 350Z

Originally posted by etx
Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!

AWD rear bar is 18mm and the front is 19mm.

GST rear bar is 15mm and the front is 19mm

GS rear bar is 13mm and the front is 18mm

RS rear bar (LOL) and the front is 16mm



The factory swaybars all have the same angles(except AWD rear) no matter what size. Of course this means the front matches front and the rear matches rear.

Aftermarket bars are all different from each other. They may mount the same and reach the endlink in roughly the same place, but the angles and length of bar between the mounting bracket and where the endlink attaches are different. This means an aftermarket smaller diameter bar MAY be stiffer(less sway) than a bar that is actually thicker. None of the aftermarket bars use spring steel. They all use mild steel. The steel does have different properties because they are not all made at the same place with the exact same steel. That means that a bar of equal size/length may be stronger or weaker than the next one. I am trying to say you cannot judge performance characteristics based on the millimeter sizing.

Also some bars have different mounts for the endlink. This makes a bar stiffer or softer based on its mounting location. This can have much more effect than bar angles or mild steel differences(not that big of a factor given they are all good quality). The mounting locations can add stiffness to the bar as much as 1-2mm bar thickness can add.

Hope this helps a bit when you are deciding on your choices.

If Stillen does not have a front adjustable bar(.75/19mm) then it would not be worth upgrading to this aftermarket part. A stock GS-T or AWD front bar with poly bushings from Energy Suspension would work fairly equal....IMHO.

I actually think a GS-T front bar with poly bushings and Suspension techniques rear bar with poly bushings($125) would yield the most neutral suspension. Fine tuning it with adjustable struts would make a hella autocross/good street handling car. My car understeers just a bit, but I take care of that with a slight bit of weight transition/left foot braking.

Good luck....kinda long but I just kept typing LOL

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!