I tried to install my upper front strut bar today. The three bolts are too small to fit the bracket on. Do I need to get new bolts (about 1/2" longer)? If so, how long do they need to be? Reading my Chilton's, it looks like I'm going to have to compress the spring and get them out from the bottom. Thanks for the help. This "easy" job isn't looking so easy.

1997 GS
Normally-aspirated and staying that way
OBX-R Type H Exshaust
OBX-R Test Pipe
AEM Long Ram CAI
Denso Spark Plugs
MSD 8.5mm Spark Plug Wires
K@N Valve Cover Breather
OBX Front Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Strut Tower Brace
VIS Vented Carbon Fiber Vented Hood
Arospeed Bumper Brake Wing
Sparco Shift Knob
Koni Adjustables
Eibach Racing Pro Springs
Buschur Racing Fuel Pump Upgrade
Crower Stage 3 Racing Cams
AEM Timing Gears
Upgraded Valve Springs
Titanium Retainers
Greddy Header
Thermal Header Wrap
---Minus the back seat-----
---Minus all A/C Accessories---
---Minus all Powersteering Accessories---
No Stupid Neons
No stupid indiglo gauges
No Stupid bass system radio
No Stupid Window Pisser Lights
---If it doesn't make my car go faster or run better, it won't be on my car-----


You shouldnt have to go to all the trouble to get them off...im pretty sure you need a 12mm socket...and about taking the bolts off...when i first put on my first strut tower bar(APC die die die) they were hard to get off...just because they were never loosened since the car was brand new...just work at the bolts for awhile...you will be ok

Old = 1997 Eclipse GS
New = 2005 Scion xB

Member # 2283

welp, the nuts are 14mm... righttie tightie, leftie loosie

keep the car on the ground.. that will keep the bolts cummin thru the strut tower so u can slap the nuts back on there after u put the bar across the engine bay.

when i first installed mines, i had a tough time... if you can get one nut on it, tighten it.. i think the spec for torque is like 20 or 20 lbs, so they dont have to be too tight...

but ya, keep at it.. if the car is in the air, there is nothing holding the strut assembly up (gravity pulls it down) and that would create problems for u..

good luk

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki

Yeah, I had the car jacked up. Even so, only 2 or 3 threads of the nut are going on the bolt. Makes me nervous not to be able to see the end of the bolt coming through the nut. The bracket is flat and the top of the strut housing is recessed about 1/4" for two of the bolts.

I tried what you said - get one thread on each bolt and start tightening down each one a little bit at a time.

Looking at the bolts without the bracket installed there's only a little bit of the bolt showing throught the nut.

btw this is the driver's side if that makes a difference

welp, when u let the car down, the weight will push the bolts up thru the spots at the tower... just keep werkin at it...i have faith in u...

my nutz (the strut mount ones) arent completely on either, but they are torqued to spec that's all that matters...

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki

29-32 ft/lbs

Thanks for keeping the faith Vegas. I thought the bracket was stronger than it really was. I put each nut on and tightened down a little bit at a time. After a while I noticed the bracket was snugging down on the body really good. The passenger side was easier than the driver's. Anyway, got the bar on. It takes some body roll out. Even taking turns at slow speeds you can tell a difference. The car just stays level. My shocks sound like they're on their way out. When I replace them, hopefully the springs too, I'll really tell a difference.

i wudnt lie to anutha 2gntR....

good to hear u got it werkd out......

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki