I find this set on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871154452


and this is what it said

Help reduce stopping distance
They reduce heat build up
Improve wet weather braking
Increase the life of pads/rotors

I was thinking that cross drilled and slotted rotors reduce the life of pads

i dunno about that, but i know alot of people who have the drilled rotors end up cracking them pretty quick and have to buy new ones. i talk to alot of people in auto-x that know about good brakes and they told me to just get the power slots, not drilled and certainly not the both together cuz their pretty weak. just thought id pass on some info.

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

i was planning on getting drilled rotors since I don't think they will wear out the pads quick, because someone told me if I get power slot rotors then the pads will wear out faster.

Nick, don't worry about the slotted rotors. The pads will probably wear a bit faster, but not enough where you'd really notice it. The slots should help bite into the pads better, improving stopping and they help clean any glaze off the pads faster. (you'd get glaze if you beat on your brakes and got them a bit too hot)

If you're going to put performance pads on the car, they'll wear faster anyway, they have to or they wouldn't be performance pads. Mushy pads that wear quickly stop the car the best. Hard pads that last forever don't do such a good job.

As for wheter you should go with slotted, drilled, or both I guess it doesn't make much of a difference. I prefer slotted, but others will prefer drilled. Eh, as long as it's a good quality rotor (unlike the made in china crap on my saturn)

"Tutto fa brodo."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.173 @ 90.70 MPH

And also a 2011 Ralliart

i have cross drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic brake pads. i haven't had any problems with the rotors cracking or the pads wearing out faster. i have had the same ones for 10,000 miles and they still have most of the pad still on them.

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

yea I remember last time I seen you, I remember you and bill were telling me if I got the pads that last forever then I would wear out the rotors and that they don't work good, and I don't remember but did you change your pads yet since you had the new rotors?

Cheap crossdrilled rotors can have problems with cracking, not if you get a good set. My KVR's are awesome. Never had a problem, and in a full braking test from 125/130 to 45mph they didn't fade, warp anything.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines, AFX 55mm TB (re-installed once exhaust is done, intake was outflowing exhaust)

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

nope, I haven't change the pads since I got the powerslot rotors, and from the look of the pads I don't think I'll have to change them for at least 2 years!

"Tutto fa brodo."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.173 @ 90.70 MPH

And also a 2011 Ralliart

Todd you drive your car like once a week, but you had like 200 runs at the track

Everything else seems to have been addressed, but rotors alone won't decrease your stopping distance. If you upgrade the pads, then there will be that decrease, but it will be from the pads, not the rotor.

There were a handful of quite large discussions on this at LS1.com when Bear Eradispeed rotors came out for the F-Body. Even Bear says they do not recommend using cross drilled rotors for autocross since they are prone to cracking.

Chris

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