So I go and I bleed the brakes with my fren. Each side 10x. I saw some little air bubbles spurt out so that's a good thing. But I still get the same results - a brake pedal that is not responsive. I thought it would be like 'I'd tap the brakes and I'd fly out my seat' Instead the brakes require me to press it down about an inch more to get some sort of stopping power. I'm thinking a couple more options 1. Bleed the entire brake system to include the rear 2. Grab some SS brake lines THanks for the support guys
ALvin
96 RST http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs
#12563, "RE: Still not happy with GSX brakes..update" In response to Reply # 1
I'm bleeding by having my fren pump 3x and hold. Then I crack the bleeder screw open. Then I close it and tell him to release and repeat the process...anything wrong here?
Alvin 96 RST
http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs
#12564, "RE: Still not happy with GSX brakes..update" In response to Reply # 2
1. Put stainless lines on the front and rear. This will get rid of the spongey feeling in the pedal. It will be a very firm feel. GSX calipers require more fluid/pressure to move the 2 pistons. Maximum braking will be increased, but might require more modulation. I think our brake master cylinders are slightly smaller than the GSX and this is the results.
2. Totally replace all of your brake fluid. That means you have to bleed the entire system. First bleed the right rear, then left rear, then the right front, then the left front. Do it in this order.
This will require nearly a full quart of brake fluid. If you have old fluid in the system, it will have absorbed water and can make braking less effective and boil over much lower.
Use Dot 5.1 fluid. It is synthetic and not silicone. This stuff rocks. I actually use Wagner severe condition dot 5.1 brake fluid. It comes in a black quart size can. $7 something a quart. Dot 5.1 resists water absorbtion and has a very high dry/wet boil point.
Tire rack carries SS lines for our cars whether it has drums or discs. RRE might carry ones for drums, but not sure.
good luck
97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!
#12565, "The importance of a bleeder kit" In response to Reply # 2
>I'm bleeding by having my fren pump 3x and hold. Then I >crack the bleeder screw open. Then I close it and tell him >to release and repeat the process...anything wrong here? >
Well, I don't like it for the very reason I think someone noted in your last thread regarding this issue. When the pumping stops or when the brake fluid bubbles over after a pump, there's a possibility that you can suck air back into the lines. Moreover, it's next to impossible to monitor how much you have in terms of bubbles without having a tube to monitor your brake fluid for bubbles. Lastly, and most importantly however, is that using a bleeder kit totally prevents any air at all from entering into your brake (fluid) lines.
The concept is similar to that of a syphon sucking out fluid from a higher plane of gravity to a lower contained source without any air disputing the process. The idea with bleeding brakes is to monitor the syphoning until you can visibly discern from the clear tubing for the presence (or the absence) of any air bubbles from the brake fluid. The process really doesn't even start until you have the exiting end of the brake fluid totally submerged in fluid so that there isn't any way for air to be sucked back into the brake lines after a pump.
Anways, the cost of a bleeder kit is minimal. I bought one for probably $2-3 tops. It's such a nothing item that's necessary for this type of thing. The kits are called one-man kits, but as others have said, it helps to have someone watching for bubbles. After you dump out the fluid into the container, simply refill it back into the reservoir.
_____________________________________ Jason ESi-T
04' BMW 325Ci 91' Nissan 240SX 98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)
#12567, "RE: Self bleeder" In response to Reply # 5
>What is this self-bleeder?? Is it just a vac pump with a >clear tube?
Heh, it's far more insignificant than that. They all differ, but most likely, it's a small plastic container with clear plastic tubing, a small plastic connector (to the caliper bleed valve), and possibly a magnet (to attach to the containter) so at to visibly monitor the fluid line and container from the driver's compartment.
_____________________________________ Jason ESi-T
04' BMW 325Ci 91' Nissan 240SX 98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)
#12568, "RE: Self bleeder" In response to Reply # 6
no you need to be patient and let them break in. I was disapointed when I first put them on so disapointed I touched the rotor after some hard braking. Lets just say the rotor is way hotter than the caliper gets. ouch!
Just be patient dude. It felt all mushy and stuff even after bleeding. I say give it 2 weeks of usual driving and it'll bite hard.
http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr Who sez FF can't drift?
#12569, "RE: Self bleeder" In response to Reply # 7
So if I wanted to completely purge the old brake fluid from the system and replace it with new fluid, could I just open the bleed nuts and put the break until the resevoir was dry, do whatever maintenance I was going to do to the brake system (like gsx conversion and some speed bleeders) fill it with new fluid, bleed right rear, left rear, right front, left front, retop the brake fluid resevoir and call it a day?
yeah I need a chiltons' manual for the DSM...can ya tell?
...At least I let my warranty expire first...wait...damn!
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