i just got my powerslots that i ordered and was reading in chilton's about how to go about installing them.. it seems like there are some precise things that need to get done like tightening the caliper guide and locking pins to 65 ft. lbs. and also measuring the brake drag force... i was just wondering how tough of a job this will be to do it myself and also how do i know how many ft. lbs. i have locked the pins. also, i'm not sure if my dad has a spring scale so is measuring the drag force necessary? if there are any other tips/suggestions that would be helpful, please let me know.. tia

To be honest with you dude, just take it all apart and install the new stuff, then tighten it all back up. That's all you need to do....easy as cake man.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3130861

Actually, yes, you just take everything apart and put it back together, it will all work just fine, just remember to use a little bit of lube on the caliper guide pin and locking pin (if you remove the locking pin, which you don't have to but I usually do) for the sliding caliper (you can buy it at any autozone in tiny little packs for 99 cents each, they usually keep them on the counter)

Well, there are torque specs on EVERY nut and bolt in your car. If you have a torque wrench you can tighten the bolts that the caliper slides on to the proper spec, but if you tighten it up well you'll be fine.

The reason they tell you to check the brake drag force is to see if the pistons are getting old and corroded and sticking in place, causing excessive drag. Don't bother, I'm sure they are fine, I doubt your car is old enough or has enough miles where the caliper or piston would be bad. I'd just take a look at the piston and see if it looks ok (not much corrosion) if you're worried about it.

"Tutto fa brodo."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.173 @ 90.70 MPH

And also a 2011 Ralliart

VX100 is exactly right. And it is cake to do all this... just get a $20 craftsman torque wrench at sears if you don't have the right equipment. Everything is 65 ft/lbs but the brake line. Unless you are bleeding the brakes you won't have to worry about that anyway. We're all here to help in case you have any probs...

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

yeah definetly get the white lithium grease that todd mentioned and be aware that the driver side caliper will prolly be harder to remove. it takes more pressure for reasons i'm not sure of but i had to get a heavy hammer and smack the hell out of it to get it off

http://www.ocaddict.com

thanks beefgg for the sig

thanks for all the help guys.. i've gotten so much help and knowledge from this board since i joined a couple months ago.. i know so much more about my car and cars in general thanks to all of you who have been answering the many questions i've had.. the only draw back about joing this message board is that i keep spending much more money than i would originally have.. but it'll be all worth it..

>thanks for all the help guys.. i've gotten so much help and
>knowledge from this board since i joined a couple months
>ago.. i know so much more about my car and cars in general
>thanks to all of you who have been answering the many
>questions i've had..

You are welcome, that's what we are here for


the only draw back about joing this
>message board is that i keep spending much more money than i
>would originally have.. but it'll be all worth it..

Heh heh, that's true for everyone here!

"Tutto fa brodo."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.173 @ 90.70 MPH

And also a 2011 Ralliart

Thanks for posting this and answering guys. I will be doing my new brakes in about a week and was wondering if I should do them myself. I still need to put in my motor mount inserts too so I got a nice project for this weekend.

well i was mostly watching over the mechanic as he worked but i was doing some myself too .. its definantly a job you can do yourself.. but you might want to have someone else there to help out and check your work.. also, on the caliper pins, the one that has the plastic piece on the bottom goes on top.. it probably also has the letter L on the pin. also, it was kind of tough to get the original rotor off, but we finally did.

lastly, not dealing specifically with rotors, but if you can get it on a lift and use air tools, it'll make it a lot easier, they're more fun than normal tools too.. when i get older and have my own place, i'm def gonna have to get them in my garage... a lift too..

edit.. when i first looked at the rotors after i installed them they looked really nice, when i got home, i saw a little bit of black on them from the pads. . just wondering if my rotors are going to soon be all black?