#984, "Megasquirted my way up to 280 kPa (~26 PSI) - oh my!" Jun-19-05 04:38 PM by dougie2
That's right... I boosted it up to 26 PSI today (with a Super 20G) and everything went very well. The 300 kPa MAP sensor works perfect, the ignition was super strong (took it to 8500 RPMs), and the AFR was very stable and consistant using 72 lb. Siemens Deka injectors (tuned it for low 11's at high boost). I could tell the engine was making lots of torque because the tires kept breaking loose in 3rd AND 4th gear. Actually, it threw the alternator belt off!
Oh my - I'm extremely satisfied with the MegaSquirt and MSnS-Extra 024s9 firmware!
My next step is to get the Megasquirt controlling the Greddy Profec B's boost solenoid.
#1858, "RE: Megasquirted my way up to 280 kPa (~26 PSI) - oh my!" In response to Reply # 40 Mar-13-06 05:07 PM by CarbonFiberRST
Originally posted by dougie2 The cam tower studs aren't for increasing the engine's power output, or anything like that, but for durability and ease of installation/removal. I'll likely be digging through the engine a lot in the near future, and by installing the cam tower studs, I won't have to ever replace the oem bolts again.
Can you post a link to where you purchased the cam tower studs from? I know what you mean about the stock bolts, they snap so easily.
Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp) Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp 2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.
#1862, "RE: Megasquirted my way up to 280 kPa (~26 PSI) - oh my!" In response to Reply # 42
I got all the ARP hardware directly from ARP by calling them on the phone.
There is no part # or kit for 1/2" head studs. You have to measure the studs yourself and order them ala cart from ARP. The engine block will need drilled out and re-tapped, and the dowel pins for the head will need to be drilled out in a lathe. I used new dowel pins from Dodge.
#1867, "RE: Megasquirted my way up to 280 kPa (~26 PSI) - oh my!" In response to Reply # 43 Mar-16-06 05:26 AM by boostin_gt35r
hey doug, NICE work. i was wondering if you are running stock crank and cam sensors if so do you have the numbers for them. i got the haltech ecu in my car but no one wants to touch it for tunning so im on my own and those numbers are a killer to find. anyway keep up the good work.
#1870, "RE: Megasquirted my way up to 280 kPa (~26 PSI) - oh my!" In response to Reply # 43
Originally posted by dougie2 I got all the ARP hardware directly from ARP by calling them on the phone. There is no part # or kit for 1/2" head studs. You have to measure the studs yourself and order them ala cart from ARP. The engine block will need drilled out and re-tapped, and the dowel pins for the head will need to be drilled out in a lathe. I used new dowel pins from Dodge.
i dont see why yuou would need to mess with the dowl pins tho...ima look at mine today and see what your taklin about...wierd
#1871, "RE: Megasquirted my way up to 280 kPa (~26 PSI) - oh my!" In response to Reply # 45 Mar-17-06 02:17 AM by dougie2
Originally posted by donnyb373 i dont see why yuou would need to mess with the dowl pins tho...ima look at mine today and see what your taklin about...wierd
The 1/2" studs will not fit through the dowel pins (I'm talking about the alignment dowel pins in the block that are used when installing the head). I removed the dowel pins and discarded them. Then I purchased new pins from Dodge and opened them up by using a 0.515" drill bit in a lathe.
Hope that helps.
BTW- it's really not neccessary to install 1/2" head studs unless you're seriously raising the compression ratios via high boost (30+ PSI) along with nitrous injection. Otherwise, the standard ARP head stud kit will work fine. Doug
#1872, "RE: Megasquirted my way up to 280 kPa (~26 PSI) - oh my!" In response to Reply # 44 Mar-17-06 02:29 AM by dougie2
Originally posted by boostin_gt35r hey doug, NICE work. i was wondering if you are running stock crank and cam sensors if so do you have the numbers for them. i got the haltech ecu in my car but no one wants to touch it for tunning so im on my own and those numbers are a killer to find. anyway keep up the good work.
Miles,
I'm using the stock crankshaft position sensor, and I'm not using a cam sensor at all. I use the MegaSquirt for fuel and wasted spark ignition. You're not going to be able to get the stock crank sensor to work with a Haltech ECU. The main reason is because the crank position notches machined into the crankshaft are VERY irregular and quite proprietary to the OEM ECU. It took months of custom software coding to decode the pattern and signal for use with the MegaSquirt.
I think the easiest way for you to use the Haltech, is to get an Unorthodox Crank Pulley and Electromotive Crank Trigger Wheel. They bolt together quite nicely and will easily give you the signal you need. Doug
#1890, "RE: Megasquirted my way up to 280 kPa (~26 PSI) - oh my!" In response to Reply # 46
Originally posted by dougie2 BTW- it's really not neccessary to install 1/2" head studs unless you're seriously raising the compression ratios via high boost (30+ PSI) along with nitrous injection. Otherwise, the standard ARP head stud kit will work fine.
