So, here is the issue I am having. After the car sat for the last 4 years, I finally got back on it and finished it enough to where I was HOPING to here it fire for the first time. Car is setup to run full standalone off msns, oem ecu and alll wiring is trashed.

Here are the issues I am having, obviously I am in my rust brain stage.

I had the dis2 trigger wires wired inline with the two trigger wires from the ms ecu. No spark. Had no power to the coil. So I decided to remove the dis2 and try to fire the coil from the ms itself, however, there are no internal ignitors in the ms which I thought there were, but there at not.

So, I am trying to figure out how to properly wire the dis2 and Megasquirt together. I did have the bypass plug that came with the dis2 installed but I obviously do not need that bypass plug since I will not need an extra connector to plug into a "factory" coil or whatever the purpose of that is. I did buy the dis2 used from CI Motorsports but they said it was working. The brown/orange wire out of the dis2 has no power coming out of it to the coil, but I may have something wired incorrectly. So, if anyone out there can tell their thoughts of how the dis2 should be wired with the msns, that would be greatly appreciated and maybe get me on a little ways to getting some spark out of these units.

Here is the general diagram from MSD of how the dis2 should be wired..

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

To my knowledge the DIS 2 cant not fire coils directly. You would need to run a transistor pack off of MS and then run that to the DIS 2. There is no point in running the MSD so I would remove it. Either add the mosfets to MS to fire coils directly or use a 4g63 transistor pack.

98 Eclipse GS Turbo
Built motor - MS2 - Holset hy35 - Zoom Stg 4 Clutch - 57.5mm TB - ARP Headstuds - Turbonetics wastegate - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Cobra calipers w/ 13" Rotors - Oil Cooler - DevilsOwn meth injection

1981 Chevy Scottsdale
1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car
2001 BMW 325i

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

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-Paul

Service Manuals and Guides

I will get some pics up tonight of the ECU and try to load up a MSQ.
Im hoping its just a F'd up setting.

Can't I just take a test light from a positive source and check the trigger wires out of the ECU to see if the signal is occuring?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

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-Paul

Service Manuals and Guides

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Here are pictures of the MSnS. I work on getting a MSQ..

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Laptop being used is too old to even save a MSQ to a cd to transfer, so I took some pics of the screens with the spark settings and also an error at start up. I have since downloaded TunerStudio to my new laptop and am waiting for the DB9 to USB cable to arrive in mail to upload MS software to this new laptop. For now, does this do us any justice in finding an error anywhere?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Geez, you picked the worst possible way to share your MSQ file...

Your ECU doesn't have internal ignitors, the "Trigger Angle" field should be set to 69, and the "Distributor (MSnS)" field should be set to "Off*^". There's still a chance the processor is damaged, but the incorrect "Distributor (MSnS)" setting would definitely cause the ECU not to send spark signals.

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-Paul

Service Manuals and Guides

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

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-Paul

Service Manuals and Guides

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Can anyone link to me this processor? I cannot find it on Symtech or DIY Autotunes site.

Says on the top of it

MC68HC908GP32CP

3K08SCTRZ0605

MSV30 BG

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

We can replace the MS1 chip and look over the rest of the ECU under our diagnostics service:

http://www.symtechlabs.com/catalog/megasquirt-diagnostics-service-p-45.html

If you just want a replacement MS1 chip, please email us at sales@symtechlabs.com.

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- http://www.symtechlabs.com -

2GNT's Source for MegaSquirt
systems, accessories & more!

Service Manuals and Guides
MegaSquirt MSQ Repository

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Ok update:

Getting error code 10 - device cannot start in device manager on the laptop. This is the reason I cannot connect to the ECU through the usb to rs232 adapter. I dont get it, check to update the driver on the laptop and says it is up to date with latest version, but WILL NOT connect and keeps throwing this code? I am not very laptop or internal computer friendly. Any ideas of how to repair this issue?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Here is some info that I found for you, good luck and keep us up to date.

Cause of the Code 10 Error

A Code 10 error is generated when Device Manager can't start the hardware device, a situation usually caused by outdated or corrupted drivers.

A device may also receive a Code 10 error if a driver generates an error that Device Manager doesn't understand. In other words, a Code 10 error can sometimes be a very generic message indicating some kind of unspecified driver or hardware problem.

Error Code 10 Troubleshooting

1.Restart your computer if you haven't done so already.

There is always the chance that the error Code 10 you're seeing on a device was caused by some temporary problem in Device Manager or with the hardware. If so, a reboot might fix the Code 10 error.


2.Did you install a device or make a change in Device Manager just before the Code 10 error appeared? If so, it's very possible that the change you made caused the Code 10 error.

Undo the change if you can, restart your PC, and then check again for the Code 10 error.

Depending on the changes you made, some solutions might include:

•Remove or reconfigure the newly installed device.
•Roll back the driver to a version prior to your update.
•Use System Restore to undo recent Device Manager related changes.


3.Reinstall the drivers for the device. Uninstalling and then reinstalling the drivers for the device is a likely solution to a Code 10 error.

Important: If a USB device is generating the Code 10 error, uninstall every device under the Universal Serial Bus controllers hardware category in Device Manager as part of the driver reinstall. This includes any USB Mass Storage Device, USB Host Controller, and USB Root Hub.

Note: Properly reinstalling a driver, as in the instructions linked above, is not the same as simply updating a driver. A full driver reinstall involves completely removing the currently installed driver and then letting Windows install it over again from scratch.


4.Update the drivers for the device. It's also very possible that installing the latest drivers for the device could correct the Code 10 error. If it does, it means that the stored Windows drivers you reinstalled in Step 3 were were probably damaged.


5.Install the latest Windows service pack. Microsoft often releases service packs and other patches for Windows, one of which might contain a fix for the Code 10 error.


6.Delete the UpperFilters and LowerFilters values in the registry. Two particular values in the Windows Registry could be corrupted, causing the Code 10 error.

While this isn't a very common solution to a Code 10 issue, it is for many other Device Manager error codes. Don't be afraid to try this if the previous ideas haven't worked.


7.Replace the hardware. A problem with the hardware device itself might be causing the Code 10 error, in which case replacing the hardware is your next logical step.

Another possibility, while not very likely, is that the device is not compatible with your version of Windows. You can always check the Windows HCL to be sure.

Note: If you're positive that a hardware problem isn't causing the Code 10 error, you could try a repair install of Windows. If that doesn't work, try a clean install of Windows. I don't recommend doing either before you replace the hardware, but you may have to give them a try if you're out of other options.

A candle burning on both ends is twice as bright but lasts half as long.

Latest update:

Got ecu back from Symtech Labs, was told it had two bad transistors in the LED circuits. Had them replace those and add internal igniters. Got it back, set it up for my car, and have no cranking RPM. I could have swore I did before I sent it out but I could be wrong. I have tried 3 new sensors from Advanced auto parts with no luck. I have check resistance from the crank sensor connector to the ecu connector with .4 ohms on both power circuit and signal circuit so the circuits are all ok. I can unhook the crank sensor connector and put a low beam headlight bulb between the power supply terminal 1 and ground terminal 2 and while cranking, it lights the bulb bright so power and ground is great. I even took the 9v power out of the loop to the connector and put 12v to it for power and still nothing. Is there something I am overlooking or missing here? Unless I have three bum sensors from the parts store I would imagine this is another/still an ecu issue. I dont know what else to do.

Let me verify as well, if your looking into the terminals at the crank sensor, terminal 1 should be power, terminal 2 is ground and terminal 3 is signal correct?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Just fabricated a homemade oscilloscope and here is a picture of the video that was taken when the engine is cranking. One channel of the scope was connected to the signal wire at the crank sensor and the ground for the scope was connected to the ground wire at the crank sensor. Not too sure honestly what this indicates, hard to tell unless that large line in the picture is the missing tooth...shrug.
Or all that just could be the sound of the engine cranking, I dont know. lol.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L