Alright guys, I'm about stumped. I can not get a signal on ts, or my tach. I tapped into my ecu for 8v signal, made sure it stayed when cranking and ran it to the sensor. Then, i ran the signal wire from ms to the connector and splice in a wore running to the ecu factory location. I made sure when doing this I did not get a ground out through the coaxial shielding. Then i ran the ground wire from ms to the connector.

What I've tried:

Jumping the ground to chassis ground. No change.

When I did a voltage drop, i found the sensor was consuming all but .5v. With this I assumed it was faulty, so I replaced it this afternoon with a duralast from Autozone and have the same outcomes. However, this new sensor does not consume all the available voltage in the circuit.
this is assume is correct?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Jason

P.s. Sent from my iPhone please excuse any typos

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

Sounds like you have it wired up right. Have you done all the internal MS board mods for the 420a? And what about your MSQ.. are you sure all your settings are correct? Post it up here.

I am almost positive it's good internally, I'm going to mod the stim hopefully tonight. How do I post the msq file?

Thanks,
Jason

iPhone post-- please excuse any typos.

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

http://2gnt.com/upload.php

Also, if you are running MS piggyback, there is no need to touch the power and ground to the crank sensor. The stock ECU will take care of that. You just need to give the MS a tach signal from the blue/white wire.

I'm not running it as a piggy back, I'm only using it for my lights and all. The ms is completly controlling the engine. But I needed the lights signals and speedo etc so I left the stock ecu in for all that. And i will try that when I get home thanks.

Thanks,
Jason

Ps. iPhone post -- please excuse typos

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

hey its not letting me upload the file, is there any other way i can get it to you?

thanks,
Jason

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

Alright, today we (my father and I) have torn into the ms unit, and the mega manual. looking at notes we used when building it. This is confusing us, I remember looking at the forums when building this and found one about the build so i followed it, does it make sense to any of yous?

for the tach input circuit we :
Jumpered XG1 to XG2
Jumpered OptoIN to TACHSELECT
Jumpered OptoOUT to VrIN
Jumpered VrOUTinv to TSEL

this is really making no sense to us. When i think back about it, i believe somebody said it reduces noise in the circuit but in all honesty I do not recall.

I am skeptical to believe that this is the issue because before the ECU was flashed to the 420a/Neon setup i was getting a tach signal off the stim. so i feel like at one point in time it worked properly this way, but i'm not sure.

Also i am still not getting anything on my factory tach. possibly because i have no other sensors hooked up? The only sensors that are hooked into the factory ECU are the CKP and it IAC motor. in hopes of having a tach circuit to run my mini tach and shift light off of, and having the factory ECU control the IAC... but as i am typing this i don't think that this will work because i have no input of ECT to the factory ECU... but i will cross that bridge when i come to it.

i'm sorry it's a lot, and i appreciate anything anyone can do to help, THANK YOU TO THOSE WHO HAVE RESPONDED TO THIS POINT!!

as far as modding the stim, yes i did realize last night that it can not be done. but thank you for the heads up on it either way.

Hopefully I can fire this thing up sometime this week!

Thanks all,
Jason

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

post a screen shot of your ignition settings, should be going hihg (if you have enternal igntghers), and spark output on pin d14? and should be set to :falling edge"
and make sure its also set to 420a.and wasted spark.

Your using tuner studio correct?

A few more details about the ECU you built would be helpful... is it MS1 or MS2 (it looks like MS2 to me)? Are you using internal ignitors, or something else? I assume it's a v3.0 board since you mention the VR conditioning circuit, correct?

If you're using MS2, a few of the tach input settings are wrong. If you're using any sort of ignitors and not an ignition box, your spark output settings are definitely wrong.

-----------------------------------------

-Paul

Service Manuals and Guides

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

-----------------------------------------

-Paul

Service Manuals and Guides

I believe I had most of them set that way before, However I will happily try it. Thank you. How do I go about setting the pot, could that maybe be an issue?

Thanks,
-Jason

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

Real quick also, is the crank sensor powered off a 5v ref or 8v. I've read 5 on here but my shop manual says 8v. If it's 5 v could I use the 5v area on my ms, and jumper it into one of my spare circuit wires, or does the sensor draw too much current?

Thanks,
Jason

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

-----------------------------------------

-Paul

Service Manuals and Guides

Awesome, thanks a lot I'll do that probably tonight. I'm tring to eliminate the stock ecu as much as possible.

Do you think the pots could be causing my original issue though?


Thanks,
Jason

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

yes, i had simalar troubled, your crank angle was set yo 69, that right there would mess it up alittle..for instance i couldnt get mine to start, it was set to the wrong edge setting, changed it, and bam! started right up.

also turn "use prediction" off

Alright thank you, I had that set to 0 before I believe but when I get home today I will surely try it again, I didn't get any time to work on it yesterday. OCD set in and I had to clean the garage. Then I started cutting apart my cross member. But thanks!

Does anyone have any input about the pots, as far as which one does which? I'll check the megamanual when I get home but it's a
Pain to look through haha.

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

-----------------------------------------

-Paul

Service Manuals and Guides

Yes that first one looks familiar.

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

alright guys, i re-did all of my settings, and still nothing, I messed around with the pots a little... nothing, so i zero'd them and adjusted them as in corbin'ss write up.

any more ideas?

:/
Thanks,

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

Well on Sunday I put an oscilliosope on it.(buddies' snap on verus) and I'm not getting anything out of the sensor. I have the 8v+ going in the center wire, and I believe the ground on the left if your looking at the connector face. And signal out on the right.( I wired it how they show in the clymer repair manual) I thought the sensor was bad do brought it back to Autozone for another one under warrenty, same issue. Wired like that the scope shows a flat 8v+.

Now the interesting part, the snap on tool shows a different wiring schematic. Which I forget. But hooked up that way I still have no signal but it gives a flat line 0v.

What is it sapposd to be normally?
I.e. Flat normally then when pulse goes to 8v
Or normal 8v when pulsed drops to zero.


Also I did not ground the block with the big post on the back, I have a ground to the tb on it right now, I also have been jumping the sensor's ground to the battery ground.
Could this ground strap maybe be my issue? I'm going to try it today hopefully.


Thanks!!

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

-Rafiel

That's how I have it wired currently. The snap on tool said to wire It that way, I just triple checked. I got nothing on ms. No o-scope today :/
Any other suggestions?
Thanks

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

Only other thing I can think of is to make sure you have a supply voltage to the crank sensor when you crank the engine. (if by chance your still connected to the stock ECU and its cutting the power) Other than that, there’s not much to it other than looking over your connections.

-Rafiel

Key on and key on engine cranking I have 8.8v+
I'm not using any connections at this point. Just the 8v positive. I'm using an alligator jumper to jump ground and the oscilloscope as my signal out.

Should I see a normal 0v with a pulse of 8v
Or a normal 8v with a pulse to 0?

Also is it possible I burned up this sensor by having it incorrectly wired?

Thanks alot!!

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

I would try hooking the signal wire back up the stock ECU to see if anything changes. It’s possible the ECU is bringing up the voltage; it’s been a while since I looked into it. Looks like the SBECIII and the FCC use different pull up methods?, i could be wrong though. All the CPS’s I’ve used for my crank/cam projects either outputted a 5v pulse or a smaller. As I’ve said before if you can swap the two outer pins and see if it changes anything.

There always is the chance of damage by wiring it up wrong.

-Rafiel