OK, I've been running into a slew of issues lately with my MS. I am currently running the v2.2 w/ 29v.

First off Terry, I completely agree with you that our stock ECU constantly adapting to the configuration of the MS settings. My car hasn't run right ever since I put the MS on my car over a year ago. I've put a lot of money to get this working and running smoothly, with no success.

Right now I have a question for all MS users: In your constants settings, are you running "Alternating" or Simutaneous"?

I have a few friends here that are both running Alternating, and I am running Simutaneous. One has a V3 and the other has the v2.2 like myself. The biggest difference I notice is in the Tuning screen on the 3D screen of the VETable. When using the ALT setting it appears to keep that 3d screen pretty flat, but mine is very mountainous.

Which now leads me to the issues I am having now.

After my car warms up it runs pretty lean at idle, and it makes the engine sound really ruff. Also my car is idle surging between 1k and 1500 when I let off the gas to come to a stop. Once I come to a complete stop it stops. Its seems as the stock ECU is playing yet another roll in this issue. Also it seems as though, my settings never seem hold true for very long. What I mean by that is I could get a solid tune on my car, and in about 2 weeks it seems to fall out of tune, or the stock ECU has adapted enough to make it seem that way.

Its getting very frustrating, since I've put so much money and time to get this running some what solid/smooth. My car hasn't run remotely smooth since I've installed this MS.

I really need all the help I can get, I am so close to just buying a portfueler. Please help me!

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

IF your lean at idle, then adjust your idle bins. That will probably solve the idle surge issue.

You need tu run alternating injection. I have run simultaneous to try it and it was the same for me.

Getting the MS to work well is not that hard. Perhaps its just too much for you.

Terry

I don't thinks its too much for me! I think its more or less the fact that I've been running Simultaneous this whole time and not alternating.

I tried taking Curtis's msq (BlackMagic) here on the board who is running the exact same setup as I besides the WBO2 sensor, and I just changed my EGO switch point and selected the LC-1 I am using in the configurator as that is the only thing that differs for the WB settings. And it didn't like it at all.

I will try and get it running in Alternating then...its my new goal/mission.

Thanks Terry!

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

Terry could you send me your most recent MSQ to goodgrieff_99@yahoo.com? I want to compare settings from what you and Curtis have and I can start plugging away from there.

Thanks!

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

I will send you the newest one I use. What size injector are you running?

Not to much for you huh? Good answer, hang in there!
Or just ship the car to Illinois.


Curtis should not be running simultaneous either unless he changed it. I dont know why he would have done that.

Also go into the Constants page and make sure the Barometric correction is turned "OFF". You have the 3 bar sensor if I recall and it doesnt work right with the correction turned on.

Terry

Run 2 squirts alternating. I've found out that when running fuel AND ignition with the MS, that the stock ECU freaks out a bit and will start to surge a bit with the Idle Air control valve..With so many things disconnected from the stock ECU, it for some reason has a hard time keeping a steady IAC signal. My only solution was to remove the IAC and block off the IAC port in the throttle body. I then used the throttle stop screw to adjust my warm idle speed. It works well, but when the engine is cold, you have to use the gas pedal a little bit to start it, and keep it running for 20-30 seconds till some heat builds up in the engine. If it's running lean at idle, try richening it up in the idle bins, and DO NOT run closed loop idle off of the 02 sensor. The engine runs much smoother when its in the 13 AFR range rather than 14.7:1..

I have found a abnormality in the air density correction factor in the code, at leat i believe so, that when the IAT rises up in temps, it pulls out too much fuel..There is a table for correcting this, but that may be a bit too much to delve into at this point. You have to run closed loop idle control, and adjust that table till the o2 sensor correction is always within 5% adjustment, all while adjusting that table. Maybe look into that when you get everything else taken care of and understood.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I will give that a try, thanks!

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

I sent it out this morning. Jeremy, are you runnign spark control already? If so shoot Dino and Doug a PM. both of them have achieved a idle without the surge while still allowing the ECU to control the IAC.

I still have yet to set up my spark....too busy MS kits or shit around the house.

Terry

I still haven't recieved it yet. goodgrieff_99@yahoo.com

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

OK well I got the car running last night using Alternating and it got rid of the idle surge and bucking at low rpms I was experiencing.

I now have a bucking at about 5400rpms. Plus I also found out my 4th gear is stretched out as well, while on my tuning run last night, but that is a different subject.

I can send the data log of the bucking if anyone might want to take a look at it.

Also Terry, I will check my setting against yours once you send me the MSQ file.

Then once I get that bucking under order and get a good tune on my car, I will try what xtremeRS suggested with the IAT.

Only thing I am weary about with that is, won't it start to effect my cyclinder walls after a while if I have to hold my foot on the gas for 20-30 seconds while it warms up? I mean I never touch the gas or move the car until my car is 100% warmed up ever since I rebuilt it. I think holding your foot on the gas would defeat the purpose of letting it warm up and the rings to seal good before applying stress to it. By reving when its at its coldest state would cause the pistons to slap about a lot.

Just a concern I guess.

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

you would not be putting any load on it though.

Also, he meant to keep your foot on it slightly, just enough to make it rev a couple of hundred rpms and keep it alive. Sort of like a Choke on a carb set up.

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

Yeah i dont mean you have to keep it at 3k or anything hehe..I usually keep it around 1500 or slightly lower for like 30 seconds, and it then stays running. My warmum enrichments are pretty rich at first start up, usually in the high 11's to low 12's, which helps keep it running when cold as well.

For the IAT issue, only some have noticed the problem, but there a several threads at msefi about it, much of with some of my findings as well(i'm md95 on the forums). I suffered from a lean start and running condition on a "hot" start. The IAT sensor gets heat soaked a bit on a hot, non running engine, and that makes the IAT read much higher temps. Well the code as i saw it, was too agressive with pulling out too much fuel as the IAT went higher and higher, giving lean conditions at idle right after a hot start. This was easily detectable by running closed loop idle off of the wideband, and viewing the o2 correction percetage. As IAT went up, so did the o2 correction with adding fuel. IAT went down, o2 correction came back to within the tuned +/- 5%. The table you can tune in basically adjusts for IAT vs a fueling correction factor. Keith at msefi has updated how this feature works, i have not tried it yet though. I currently run the "HI-res" code, 08d version, and it works well. All i did to tune it, was to look at the IAT temps at a hot start, then adjust the special table to get my o2 correction back in line. Then guestimate for lower temps to create your new correction curve. I did pretty good with my numbers, and even on the hotest restart, it wont run lean anymore..Like i said though, only get into this when you have everything else worked out.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I am definately looking into that now, so when it comes time for me to try it, I will have better knowledge and know how. Thank you for the heads up on that.

I also corrected that issue with the bucking at higher RPMs...in More Settings under Over Run Fuel Cut, it was set to something really stupid so I just turned it off for right now. Seems to of corrected the issue.

Also do anyone of you use that AFR Target % in the More Settings section? If so could you post a screeny of your settings.

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

You know what Jeremy, THe over run settings are my settings. When you let off the gas the ECU cuts fuel. When you have your map tuned a bit better look into using it. Otherwise the ECU keeps trying to richen the map when you are coasting to a stop.

Terrt