I'm currently getting my engine rebuilt with forged rods and pistons. My head is also getting new stage 2 camshafts, springs, retainers, etc. The problem is I also have purchased the safc2, the sfmu, and larger injectors. Will this be a problem while i'm breaking in my car? Will I have to excessively tune my car before I can even break it in, or would putting it back together with stock injectors, and breaking it in, then putting the safc, sfmu, and larger injectors on there. I know I should have thought it out better but need assistance asap if possible. Thanks.
#99182, "RE: How to break in fully built engine?" In response to Reply # 0
Ideally a brand new engine should be broken in with the fuel maps already tuned. Whatever you can do in order to have it run as smoothly as possible (maybe take off the wastegate actuator if needed and run NA, zero out the AFC, stock injectors back, whatever...) then you will be able to break it in properly. Once you start it up and those surfaces start to wear in, there isn't much time/miles you have if you want to get it perfect with top compression.
#99183, "RE: How to break in fully built engine?" In response to Reply # 1
i ran mine withotu boost during break in with alot of down shifting while slowing, compression was shitty at first...then about 100 miles later its came up and got better every time i drove it, then i threw the spring back into the wg and boosted away,
the intial start up i unplugged the coil pack and cranked away to lube everyting, then fired her up. I let her idle for abotu 20 min then changed the dino oil with fresh dino oil, then after every 100 miles i changed the dino oil, at around 1k of that i swtiched to 10w30 mobile one and have been running ever since.....if your still unsure tho, do a good search, you will find this very topic dozens of times
#99188, "RE: How to break in fully built engine?" In response to Reply # 2
These threads always get convoluted.
Personally, I filled her up with cheap dino oil, idled her out the back gate and down the alley, then wound first gear to 3000rpm and compression braked back down to about 1200rpm. Then I would wind first out to 4000rpm and back, and so on and sorth until I had gone all the way to 6000rpm.
After that, I just tried to leave the car in gear for more compression braking than I would usually do for the first month or so, but figured it was broken in.
#99191, "RE: How to break in fully built engine?" In response to Reply # 3
And I just went out and started boosting 16psi right off the bat... drove hard enough that with my first tank of gas I only got 15.5 mpg. Driving normaly I get 29mpg. I didn't do my first oil change untill around 200 miles and that was because I had to drop the bedplate cause I put the wrong o-ring there.
Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp) Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp 2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.
#99194, "RE: How to break in fully built engine?" In response to Reply # 4
You can ask 10 different people what the proper way to break in a motor is and you will get 10 different answers. I started running boost (8 psi) with in the first couple of miles after the engine was built. I have 30,000 mile on my engine now and it still has 185 psi compression (8.6:1 pistons) on all cylinders.
Just take your time and watch your EGT's and your A/F ratio if you can.
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