I dont know what is happening to my timing belt. Here is a video of the tensioner and the idle pulley. The tensioner doesn't seem to want to hold tension onto the belt when the engine is on. You can see it in the video the pulley moves back and forth and the timing belt rattles and flaps like crazy. I cant even drive the car because I dont want to risk snapping the belt.

Here is the link to the video

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g58/napkinthief/?action=view¤t=b2dc966d.flv

DO not run you car anymore!!!!!!!! You need a new tensioner. Replace it now. You will bend valves if you are not careful.

now that were talking about timig belts and such, i have had a qstion since the first time i revved my car hard: What would cause a hi pitched grinding/squeel to come from the car gears/timing area when i step on the gas while on neutral? i step on the throttle on the freeway all the time and dont hear it (unless i down shift) but maybe because of the exhaust or all other noise going on.

Help me out guys, im a fraid i ruining something each time i do this, which i dont do since ive heard it

sorry to hijack bro!

Ewww, wouldn't hurt to get new bearings too. Rusty.

1998 Eclipse GS

GS-T Axleback|CAI|OBX 4-1 Header|AF/X UDP|

ok, as u can tell im a BANME!, ive come a long way since i got the 2gnt, but may i ask which bearings are those i should get sir?

sorry...im new

bro dont start youer car no more until you got it fixed, go on ebay and look up the user partsdinosaur he has a timing kit that replaces all the bearigns and the tensioner for a good price

Picking up a tensioner from the junkyard tommorrow off a 48k mile esi.

edx, go make your own thread.

Thanks for the help guys, I got a question on installation though. Do I have to pull the engine to swap this or what? Right now I took off the passenger side motor mount and the front motor mount, and jacked the engine up from the oil pan with a block of wood. I raised it pretty high up, to the point where the tensioner pulley is level with the strut tower top. I cant seem to get the lower part of the cover off, do I have to remove the crank pulley? If so, is this a good time to get an UDP?

"...go make your own thread."?

damn bro i said "sorry for the hijack"

BTW, welcome to 2gnt...

Yes, the crank pulley needs to come off so that you can remove the the cover and access the tensioner. You don't need to pull the engine.

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

thank you sir, i presumed it would be better, after i searched and found your topic, that ide ask a relevant question.

there are plenty of timing belt replacement write ups if you search, I would definately replace the tensioner pulley and there is a 4 piece kit also, it includes the belt, tensioner (new style), idler pulley and tensioner pulley. Go to autozone and rent the chrysler puller, it works great. Other than that use the write ups you find in the searches. If you need a detail, hit me up w/ a pm and I'll help ya both out. g'luck.

one problem you will hit is the crank bolt is too short to leaven in the crank to pull the pully off, just use a 1/4 inch 12" extension inside the crank and it will come off with ease, as far as putting the pully on just go to your local hardware store and buy a longer bolt the same thread as the crank bolt and buy some washers and a nut to go onto it, screw the longer bolt into the crank withthe nut and washers on it, then screw down the nut until the pully is on all the way, alot of people use the crank bolt and some of them if not most of them snap off the bot inside the crank, if you use the longer bolt and the nut trick you wont snap it off

Replaced the hydraulic tensioner with a part from a parts car. The timing belt was nice and tight on it and it is fine on my car. The wont start now, and I am not exactly sure if my timing marks are where they where, it seems like both of them at 1 notch higher, but I dunno if they were like that. I had the belt zip tied to the cams so it didn't move. My battery was dead, I had a jumper kit and it was dieing out will try again tommorrow morning.

Dood... Before you turn the key check, double check, and triple check your timing.

I know Im a little late.....
but get a goodyear gatorback, waterpump (New please), and 2 new idler bearings (your tensioner and idler bearings are the same part number) and a hydraulic tensioner from Napa
install all your new parts and time it, check it over and over again. then and only when it lines up perfectly... crank it and let it run for a minute. then put it back together and call it a job well done.
But whatever you do PLEASE DONT CRANK IT UP AGAIN, youre risking your motor
Lets hope your pistons and valves havent met each other's acquaintance.
Good luck

I highly recommend getting NEW parts when it comes to your timing...I don't know how much they are for the NT, but a new tensioner for a 4G63 is about $75 after club discount. That is money WELL spent IMO. You are really supposed to replace it with your belt anyways (or at least check the clearance on it, and replace as necessary). But for the money, there is no reason to risk putting on another used one that may do the same thing after not too long...

'95 GSX - New motor/turbo going in...
'95 TSi AWD - For sale...buy me!
'03.5 MazdaSpeed Protege - Stock daily driver
'97 CBR 600 - Purple is a real man's color

I concur
I got a new tensioner from Napa for I think $100
money well spent in my book
everything else was new too
I bought the Parts Dinosaur kit and the mech tensioner didnt work for me, also the belt was made in China. I only had that belt on for like 10 days and the thought of having a belt made in China to US spec got to me, not to mention my cam was off one tooth. So I got a Gatorback after talking to Grain and begging him to help me re-time my car via telephone... By the way, Thanks John Luv ya
My whole point is get everything new and of quality when it comes to timing, K

You are putting 20ftlbs of torque on the tensioner pulley when tightening down the tensioner plunger, correct? If not, then it can cause issues..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Do yourself a damn favor yo and just get the kit from the Parts Dinosaur. Great guy and awesome product Comes with the mechanical tensioner, bearings, and even a new belt.

-Xavier-
95 Eclipse RS-T...lost in the frozen tundra

Originally posted by XMasta19
Do yourself a damn favor yo and just get the kit from the Parts Dinosaur. Great guy and awesome product Comes with the mechanical tensioner, bearings, and even a new belt.

1998 Eclipse GS

GS-T Axleback|CAI|OBX 4-1 Header|AF/X UDP|

Originally posted by dsmmyth

Originally posted by XMasta19 Do yourself a damn favor yo and just get the kit from the Parts Dinosaur. Great guy and awesome product Comes with the mechanical tensioner, bearings, and even a new belt.

Seconded.

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