Ok everything is done, pretty much.. Here is what the status is.. I rebuilt my motor, put it in, the axles arent connected right now, it was too dark outside to do so. but I was too anxious to see if it'd start. So my roomie and I went outside, hooked the battery up, and attempted to start it. It sounded like it was going to, but the motor was shaking and making a thumping sound. I have all the motor mounts in, I am going to recheck the torques on them tomorrow to play it safe. But after it made the thumping sound I got scared and decided to quit until tomorrow and make a post. The only mount that isnt on is the crossmember. But I have driven my car in the past w/o it even on and the motor didnt shake like this..... The only other things that I have to do is, connect the crank position sensor to the plug, and connect that round plug on the ac from the wiring harness. Anything you guys can think of that I may need to check? is this normal? I have a mtx and I'm pretty sure it was in neutral when I hooked the linkage up.. I made sure that the levers were in the middle.... thanks

Ok thus far I've learned that the engine won't start w/o the crank positioning sensor connected. But what would cause it to thump and shake? thanks

Well without the CAS, your car has zero chance of starting. Plug that in and then get back to us. I wouldn't worry unless it happens after the car is completely together.

'95 GSX - New motor/turbo going in...
'95 TSi AWD - For sale...buy me!
'03.5 MazdaSpeed Protege - Stock daily driver
'97 CBR 600 - Purple is a real man's color

Make sure the cam angle sensor is connected, also. As well, it may sound boneheaded, but make sure the plug wires aren't crossed.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Make sure you have everything together and double check all you wiring and mounts ect. Dont let being anxious get the better of you.

I dont have AIM sorry

Terry

ok the crank angle positioning sensor is on, motor still moves and thumps... Here is the only problem I have, the mount that connects the tranny near the fire wall. When I took out my tranny, I didnt take out that mount all the way. I just undid the 3 bolts that hold it to the transmission. Now when I turn them to make sure they are torqued, they keep turning. So now I am going to go buy 3 new bolts that are a little longer, and maybe they will tighten then.. Could this be the verdict of the motor moving. Also, if I reach down and grab that mount that connects to the cross member, and pull up. my motor moves in the same direction it does when I try starting it and it thumps..... Thanks

oh yeah, the reason I am going to buy 3 new bolts, is just incase the ones I have in there arent the correct ones. The thread is correct, and it says 10.9 on the bolt, but maybe I put shorter ones in there, b/c when I untighten it after they wont get tight, there are little pieces of metal shavings around the bottom of it.

loose mounts could be the thumping, sounds like you stripped the rear mount.

You're fucked. You're going to have to try and re-tap those holes with a slightly larger bolt, while being careful not to bottom out the tap and fuck up the threads AGAIN.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

so I need to pull my engine and tranny again?, b/c getting back there to retap them w/ a tap and dye (however you spell it) is nearly impossible w/o taking them out again... also, is it even possible to retap them where they will hold that amount of torque from the bolts? damn I hate my car.

I would at least get the engine on the lift to hold it up and out of your way. That should give you enough room.

'95 GSX - New motor/turbo going in...
'95 TSi AWD - For sale...buy me!
'03.5 MazdaSpeed Protege - Stock daily driver
'97 CBR 600 - Purple is a real man's color

ok this may sound dumb, but what if I filled the holes w/ jb weld or something, and then tap them.. would that be better than retapping the existing stripped hole?

just buy slightly longer bolts (same thread size) and use a nut on the other end to torque them. I wouldn't try tapping those.

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

I dont understand what you mean.. The bolts that are in there are 25mm long, I bought some that are 30mm long and put a washer on the end to make them about 27mm of thread, but it still wont tighten, it just keeps spinning. I dont know how putting longer bolts in and tightening them down with a nut would work if they wont tighten at all. I see how they would if the bolt would tighten down, but would it still work if I did the nut thing, eventhough the bolt isnt even at 20 ft/lbs?

maybe i'm confused here. What i meant was, since the threads are junk now, i would use a bolt and a nut to act as a 'clamp' between the block and the tranny. Yea, they don't need to be longer bolts.

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

well maybe I'm confused too... I just dont see how a nut would work even as a clamp, since the holes in the transmission are the ones that are stipped.. If I could get those to tighten somewhat, maybe the clamping w/ the nut would work, but I dont think it will since the holes are stipped and the bolts wont tighten at all. maybe if I can force a size bigger bolt in the 2 holes, and make them longer, and then I could use them as a stud and then tighten a nut down on it to torque it.. That may work.

Also, even with all the bolts in, eventhough they cant be torqued down on the tranny mount... I can move my engine, by pulling up on the mount for the crossmember (the crossmember isnt installed) and I can see the motor mount on the drivers side move, would that mean that this mount is bad also, or its just moving b/c of the tranny mount not torqued down?

ok new idea, well kind of. What if I get a really long bolt (50mm long) same thread as the original bolts.. put a nut on the bolt and bring it all the way up to the head of the bolt, jb weld the fuck out of the hole and the bottom threads of the bolt.. let it sit 12 hours or so... then use the nut and torque it down... then cut the head off of the bolt.. I dont see why this wouldnt work, but if anyone else has any better ideas, let me know thanks

getty up

-kent-




'98 Talon...gone, but not forgotten

yeah Terry suggested to take out the tranny, drill it out, tap the holes, and install a helicoil kit and use studs and nuts.. I think that will work better than stock actually.. I dont know why they didnt do that stock in the beginning, all of the other mounts are done like that.. Does anyone know the thread of those 3 bolts? I have like 9 bolts right now for that mount, but no idea what the thread is..thanks

I believe they are 10mm x 1.5 but I may be wrong.

does anyone else know if the tranny mount not being torqued correctly b/c of my problem would still allow me to move my engine by hand having the two side mounts in?

sorry to keep bugging everyone, I'm just paranoid about me being able to move my engine by hand, not alot, but enough for the engine/tranny to hit that black frame near the firewall. I just am paranoid that it isnt just b/c of the tranny mount being fucked up or not. so my question is, do you think it'd still be possible to move it by hand (by pulling up on the mount that the crossmember connects to,eventhough the crossmember isnt connected) and it moving enough to touch, or would that be also a failure of the other motor mounts? thanks

Once all the mounts are tightened down the engine should not be able to move easily. by hand you might be able to move it about 1/8". With all your weight you might be able to move it 1/4".

IF yours moves easily with ALL mounts tight then you have a failed mount or loose bolts.

The rear trans mount carries a great burdon of accepting the torque of the axles. the front mount does too but now as much as the rear.

Since you DONT have the rear trans and front trans mount bolted in the motor should be flopping around. Take a close look and see what is there to stop the trans/motor from rolling on the two side mounts? NOTHING, the front and rear mount are what control transmotor roll.

Terry

great thanks Terry, I appreciate it alot man. I'm gonna try the helicoil thing today, eventhough its 32 degrees outside right now haha, just my luck. it was 65 yesterday and 32 today, I had alot of trouble getting my crossmember to connect and line up, so before I install the motor in, I'm going to install the crossmember barely, just enough to get the bolts in the holes, maybe that will help.. thanks again