well i figured, since i had all that work done to my head, and was recommended to get an afc to tune it, and am only an hour from slowboy, hell, might as well get one and have them tune it. so i take my car up there, and let them work on it, and my car had a slight miss, so i told them to look into it, so they check compression, and its lower than what it should be, 170 150 170 170, so they check timing, and intake was a tooth of, and since that one cylinder had a lower number, they wanted to take the head off the car, so i tell them to do it, and they find that the gasket is shot, and the bolts are too, so they put in a new felpro 3 layer gasket, and arp studs, and put it back together, and hook up the afc, but they said there is no response from the map and tps, so they tried some ones they had there, and still no response, they were thinkin maybe some wires got melted near the harness, so they went to check into that, but the thing is, when the afc is hooked up, or turned on, i forget which, it wont run, but when its off, it runs, but runs like shit they said...now this is really pissin me off cuz its been there for almost 2 weeks now, and they got no idea whats wrong with it, and it costing me an arm and a leg. i told them to check compression again, but all he said was, ok, but it should be high with the new gasket and studs, so im wondering if they screwed something up, like bent some valves, or put the cams in wrong, or something like that. any ideas anyone?

not to sound like an ass but please put some line spaces in your post

maybe its just my eyes but it all seems like it runs together

spread it out a little

1996 eclipse GS-T
1968 Ford Mustang
2004 Suzuki GSXR600
2006 Honda CBR1000RR
Decisions Decisions

Have you double checked the wiring to make sure it's wired in right?
Have you doubled checked the setup setting for the S-AFC?

Always be careful when pulling and replacing the head, since it's aluminum it warps easily. I always recommend having the head checked for flatness by a machine shop.

Exile Racing Technologies
http://www.exileracing.com
Go that way, really fast, if something gets in your way... turn.

actually they got it fixed, the said 2 pins in the ecu were touching causing the car to run bad, and one of them happened to be the tps, so thats why they werent getting a reading.

also i was dissapointed with the numbers, they said they got 11 hp by tuning which i dont know if thats good or not, but he said hp was like 134 or something like that, and thats to the hub, but he said crank hp would be like 200. also my car is an auto which i lose hp as well, but 200 is what i was lookin for, he also said it feels like a whole different car, cant wait to go pick it up

so i take my car to auto zone to have them scan the cel's i had because the light was on when i picked it up, and this is what there was.
p1296
p1698
p0352
p0120
p0600
p0720
p0715
p0122
p0123
p0140

i looked in the manual and found most of them, but how could there be all them codes when i paid sbr 1100 to fix it all? and i asked him what the cel was, and he said it was for the tps because the pins in the ecu were touching, but when they fixed it, the code was gone.

should i just remove the battery terminal, and see if they stay off, or come back on? also, i seems slower than it did when i picked it up, so im wondering if they screwed something up

remove the negative terminal and let it sit for 10-15 minutes.

That will clear the codes and it should feel a lot better.

That's pretty dissappointing that you spent 1100 on pretty much nothing really, and they didn't even clear the codes before giving it back to you.

Yay for slowboy racing

EDIT: you realize you could have pieced together a turbokit for that right.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

haha i know, but i had to get a new head gasket and arp headstuds, and that was 200 right there, plus the dyno time was another 100, and other misc. parts and labor...damn, i wish i would have got a turbo kit

As the eternal optomist, I will offer a "possiblilty".

With all those codes, your ECU could be going into "limp" mode for one or more of them. That would cause it to be slower. Clearing the codes (and not having them come back) would bring the ECU out of limp mode and you're good to go.

I'm sorry you had to spend all that money and not get a whole lot for it. That's frustrating.

Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

i took off the negative and let it sit, and put it back on, and the only codes that came on were 14 and 21, 14 being the map sensor, and 21 being the o2 sensor, but i just just replaced it, so im wondering why it comes on like that?

it still seems slow, maybe even slower when i brought it there, and it doesnt even seem like my cams are in there, i hardly feel it pull like it used to after 4500 rpms. and it still has that low idle when i stop, like 300, and it sounds like its running bad,like it wants to stall even though the rpms are still at like 700+. they claimed it was the cams thats making it sound and run like that, who knows...i hate my car anymore.

and doesnt 112lbs of torque and 134hp seem low for what ive got done to it?

134 to the wheels isn't that bad. Especially for an automatic. The highest of any all motor dyno pull thus far has been 159, so you're definitely doing alright.

You might be getting the MAP code because of the SAFC. It does fuck with MAP signal to the ECU, I believe. Try searching for SAFC problems. Maybe that will help you. I'd be willing to bet the SAFC is the root of all your problems, here.

yeah they did say that an auto takes away something like 30% hp and torque, so id be up there if i was a manual.

do you think i should try replacing the map sensor anyways?

Originally posted by DR1665
Try searching for SAFC problems. Maybe that will help you. I'd be willing to bet the SAFC is the root of all your problems, here.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by DR1665 Try searching for SAFC problems. Maybe that will help you. I'd be willing to bet the SAFC is the root of all your problems, here.

Remove the safc and sell it.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by RxR_Eclipse

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by DR1665 Try searching for SAFC problems. Maybe that will help you. I'd be willing to bet the SAFC is the root of all your problems, here.

Remove the safc and sell it.

^^what he said...

They have a good point. Pretty sure that Slowboy is a 4G63 shop. They can make good use of the SAFC in tuning, often going up to 400hp on stock internals, but what does work for a 4G63 may not really work on a 2GNT. I'd bet Mike had the nail on the head. They probably tuned so aggressively with the SAFC to get it to do anything that it's forced the ECU into limp mode. Good news is, there's usually all kinds of people on DSMtuners looking for those at a good price. Bad news is, they're DSMers, so they're all cheapskates. You're going to lose money on this deal, but live and learn, right?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

i have cams, thats why i bought it, mike at ERT said i should get one to help tune them, i wouldnt have bought one if i wasnt told to get one, and i only paid 190 shipped, and new they are like over 300, so maybe i might be able to make some profit, if i decide to sell it

yeah i dont think it ever stalled for me without the SAFC, but since he mentioned it, and it wasnt to expensive, i thought might as well get it.

the only thing i wonder about is how the rpms drop to 300 when i stop at a light, and why the SAFC reads 700rpms when its idling like that? but its done that before i did the head and a good while before that too...the fuel pump and filter have never been changed, so do you think at idle after a hard drive, its just not getting the right amount of gas to stay at the right idle?

Thura tuned his car with an SAFC, then bypassed it and lost 9wHP. On a NA car with stock cams. Still not worth it?

You guys surprise me sometimes. Yeah, they work. yeah, they make power as a tuning tool. They're not the fucking devil.

______________________________
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

my cars acting weirder now, i filler her up and in half a tank, i got 110-115 miles, that seems rediculously low dont you think?

and if anyone has driven a a/t, you know that when you floor it, rpms skyrocket to like 5000 and it pulls hard, well now, sometimes it wont even do that, it will hesitate once or twice and just go into like 3rd gear and not pull hard or anything, im not sure what it is, but its making me mad, any ideas on what could be causing both of these problems?

get rid of the fucking safc and check your timing. something is fucked up.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

gee, thanks for the fucking reply. but if timing is pulled, would it really mess with the cams? wouldnt it just pull the timing by when the injectors are fired? how could it actually stop a cam from moving, is what i dont understand, but i will check it anyways, damn slowboy probably fucked up anyways.