Alright, you all were right....I spun a bearing and it went through the block... yeah, it sucks.... so now my parents are picking up the bill on a new engine. ..... So, what should i have done to the engine while it's out... (pistons etc...) Also, where do i get it from and what compression (or size)...etc. finally, how do I break in the new engine. Please give me as much input as possible...
#9551, "RE: Help With New Engine!" In response to Reply # 0
Well if your planing on doing some work on the engine while it is out don't pay the price for a whole brand new engine, get a used one and rebuild the bitch. Compression is going to be determined on what your goals are, lower compression for turbo use and higher compression for all motor, you gotta know what your goals are for the engine. Now breaking it in is a pain in that ass because you always want to get on that beast and see what the new engine has done for your baby. Can't do that you have to baby that thing, first couple hundred miles I didn't take mine up over 3,000 rpm after that I started giving it a little bit more, but not too much. Change the oil at 500 then 1,500 and the 3,000. At the 3,000 mark use full synthetic oil but not before only mineral oil before that mark. Thats how I am breakin in my new engine, I am sure other people will have other opinions so whatever I am just tellin you how I do it.
#9552, "RE: Help With New Engine!" In response to Reply # 1
Having gone through pritty much the exact same engine situation myself, i know how much it sucks. For one, plan on being w/out a car for roughly 1-2 months, hope you have a biotch.. opps, i mean a girlfriend. And what Daved up there said is to the T exactly what you should do, i don't think anything else needs to be added.
O, you should feel REAL lucky about u'r rents pickin up the bill.
97' Eclipse RS (kinda)
Present mods: HRC stage III turbo kit (12 psi street, 25 psi track) HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust w/burnt cat 16" wheels w/Yokohomo tires (215/40) 420A engine w/ tooled crank, billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons Head ported and polished, 3 angled valve job Power-stop brakes w/axis pads Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8") MSD DIS-2 ignition system w/turbo retard
Near Future: Stand-alone fuel system 550cc injectors, and fuel rail TEC III fuel/ecu system 17” Hart racing wheels KYB AGX struts, w/ upgraded anti sway bars Rear brake conversion (front to rear, Brembo in front)