Sup all,

I just finished putting it back together after having mild port work done to the exhaust and a multi angle valve job using the stock springs, stems, ect (<--- was that a mistake?)( it was resurfaced too)

i have had ignition coil pimary a/b circuit Pcodes off and on. and the coil pack did fail a resistance test as per Haynes spec. But that cell went away and stayed gone.... ? (new one is on order)

i also have the engine coolant temp sensor voltage too high code. (i'll be picking up a new one of those tomorrow)

the car idles fine for about 30 seconds then begins to shutter slightly (violently when cold) if I rev it up it is smooth as glass all the way up to redline and then revs down just as smooth. returning to a shuttering idle.

i have moisture out the tailpipe and im pretty sure it's water.

my comp numbers (after idling for about 10 minutes) were:

175 180 179 195

TIA for any help you can offer.

I'm a novice listen to what I say and make your own conclusion.

I GURANTEE its one of these following.

1. CTS (Coolant temp sensor)

or

2. Re-check your timing

or

3. Vac leak.


I would go in that order as a CTS is only $12.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Mike I know your no idiot but "garantee" ??

CTS is def the next step. and food for thought i haven't pulled timing tensioner pin yet....

edit: I cant spell

I'm a novice listen to what I say and make your own conclusion.

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

i will, hopefully i can check it without taking the whole left side of the engine off. the only real problem now is, when i start it up, it starts funny, cranks slow (battery was dead), then turns over, but i dunno, its hard to explain, it just doesnt start like it normally does, like it kinda sounds like someone farting or some shit, ugh, u would just have to hear it, but other than that, it idles pretty good, and ideas? think timing might be off a tad bit?

edit; oh, btw, isnt it said that if the pin is able to be pulled out, and put right back in, then that is where the tension should be, becuz thats how it was for me, so even if the nail is still in there, wouldnt tension still be the same as if it was out?

actually its fine now, is still cranks slow, but starts up good, and i was thinkin i might be able to take off the 2 bolts on the lower t-cover and slide my hand or some pliers and pull the pin out, that way i wont have to rent that damned crank puller for the 20th time, and have to redo the belts again. it idles pretty good, but if it gets lower than 900-1000, its starts to shake a little bit, guess ill turn it up a notch to fix that

Well i retimed it and it idles alot better. (but not perfect) I'm still throwing the "engine coolant temp sensor" code so a new one of those is coming tonight.

The car idles fairly rough (seems to smooth out a little as it warms up). Between 1500 and 2500 rpms it is almost lopey and the car shakes. once I pass 3k it smooths out and sounds better than ever.

the only things outside of stock at this point are udp, ported exhaust and an oversized bolt in the front motor mount.

I ran it hard then checked timing again it looked good.

Any input would be appreciated.




I'm a novice listen to what I say and make your own conclusion.

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
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