Ok, breif history. After rebuilding I drove around for a week with no problems then there was an oil leak. On my last trip before dropping the bedplate and replacing the o-ring I hit the revlimiter at 7,200rpm while I was at 11psi. After that on the ride home the car stalled a couple of times and I had to crank it about 3-4 times, after that the last few stops before I got home, along with the 3-point turn in the yard before backing into the garage it didn't stall and seemed to run fine.

So, now the o-ring has been replaced and I get the car running. It drove fine while it was warming up. Went about 5 miles and once it hit opperating temp it immediatly started bucking and wouldn't accept any throttle. I had to drive the whole way home at idle. I could crack the throttle ever so slightly (maybe 2-4%) but anymore and it would jerk and buck violently and the exhaust would pop. During these episodes the WBO2 goes way lean. In the morning after it has had time to get cold again I'll see if the problem is still there or if it is actually dependent on engine temp.

Any ideas?

EDIT: By operating temp I don't mean when the water temp needle gets to the position that it always sits at when its warm. I mean when the idle oil pressure gets to about 25psi. You know how the Oil pressure at idle stays pretty high untill its completely warmed up...

EDIT2: Car is still running on the stock ecu. SFMU and 42# injectors. Hahn turbo kit. Has the Hahn FCD and the missing link.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Bump. TPS, idle air? Shift hard and pull something loose?

Yea, I was thinking maybe the TPS just took an instant shit... I didn't mess with the car today, had to go to my best friends funeral... been kinda out of it since his death last wednesday night. Ima try and find my spare tps that is probably lost in the abyss that is my garage...

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

OK I just got done running it in the garage and while it was cold it was running fine and letting me free rev it. After about 7-10 minutes, once the idle oil pressure dropped below 50psi (getting pretty warmed up) it won't let me rev past 1,500 rpm... It just sputters and shit like its on a stutter box almost. Which sensors are not used in warmup but are relied on for normal operating temp operation? Please help, I leave for college on the 3rd of jan and need my car.

EDIT: I wasn't able to find my extra TPS but if its not used during warm up but is after its at operating temp then I'll go buy one or if anyone can tell me how to test it, i have a multimeter and test light... just not sure the proccedure. Never had an electrical problem before these last few weeks.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Ok, Thanks for all the help. I guess I'll just bite the bullet and tackle the MegaSquirt install... I've been dreading it for a few months now... The two suggestions I got from Dino were o2 and map and they'll be cut out of the picture when the MS... later.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Think maybe the coilpack is getting hot and then the output is breaking down?

take off the hrc black box. now. now... did i say now?

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Ok, to avoid the MS install since I don't think i can get it installed and tuned well enough for a 3 hour trip to college by the 3rd, I installed a new front o2 sensor and then a new map sensor but neither fixed the problem... What else could it be? could it be the rear o2? I havn't had a cat for 2 years and never had a problem...

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Did you tr what Grain said?

yea, nothing happened.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Reset the ecu.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Any more possibilities other than Front o2 or Map? I've replaced the front o2 and the map, The problem only occurs once operating temp is reached. While its cold it runs perfect absolutely NO problems. I've removed the HRC black box thing also. I've reset the ecu after every change. I leave for school tomorrow... Would a bad rear o2 cause this? Its kinda important...

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Replace your Coolant Temp sensor. Check and validate: Throttle position sensor, Idle air controller, and EGR functions. Check and make sure your thermostat isnt broken.

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

Well I've had a migrain for the past 3 hours and havn't been able to fall asleep for 2... then out of nowhere it hit me, check the coolant level idiot. So I did. The resevoir is bone dry and the coolant level is about 3/4ths the way up the upper radiatior hose at its highest point... please tell me this is my problem! I'll find out for sure when I wake up, that is if I ever fall asleep... However, I'm afraid I'm just having false hopes... But thats all that has changed since the last time it worked perfectly... I know it was full before... *crosses fingers* (oh yea I don't believe in that shit)

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

crank or cam sensor?

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Like the new title says. I have MS controlling the injectors and once the car warms up I can't rev above 1500-2000 depending on which msq I load... This is exactly what it did before, it even goes lean (not as lean but 18.0ish or leaner) but while it was warming up i was able to rev it to 3k-4k rpm. Unbelievable...


EDIT: Could the timing cause this? I mean, it doesn't make sense, its fine while warming up then once warm it does this... (I've never verified the timing...)

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

I richened up the bins where this problem occurs and instead of it going full lean it will do the same thing but read in the 14afr range... So I guess it must be ignition related? Also, fuel pressure should drop slightly as vacuum increases? I have the aeromotive 1:1 and with the vacuum source is connected it is at 40psi at idle then drops some as I open the throttle. With out the vacuum source connected it stays right on 43psi at idle and when reving(I'm assuming this is correct).

How likely is it that I'll be able to figure out how have MS control ignition and fuel at the same time? are ignition maps as vehicle specific as fuel maps? the only sensors left to replace are the cam positioin and the crank position... along with the ecu but I'd rather save the money...

EDIT: The car idles fine with the MS I had it idling for 15min while I was fiddling with it... the afr goes from 14.5ish-15.0ish and the rpms stay around 950.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

K, fixed the problem... I'm an idiot and it was the crank position sensor. So anyway, I guess it CAN run with that sensor malfunctioning. I know for a fact that it won't even get spark if its not plugged in at all. I guess this thread can die now. I drove around for about 15min and it needs lots of tuning but atleast its driveable.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.