I've had this problem for a while now, and lately it's been getting worse. My car will randomly shut off on me; whether it be at a stop sign or light, or cruising on the highway. Power steering is gone and it becomes very dangerous driving like this. I'll have to carefully roll off on the side of the rode and let my car sit for a few seconds and then it'll fire right back up; a very weak start afterwards, but it starts. When I'm at a stop light, I can tell my car is idling a bit rough, as you can feel it throughout the cabin. This is usually an indicator to me that my car is about to shut off, and at that time, it sometimes starts right back up as my car is sitting there. I haven't been able to actually check my ECU to see if there are any leaking caps, I would just want someone else's output as to what my problem could be before I dish out money on a new ECU.

Everything has been replaced below:
Coil Pack (MSD)
Wires (MSD)
Plugs (NGK)
OEM Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Starter
Automatic Shut-down (?) Relay

Thanks.

to my knowledge the leaking caps were only a prob on the turbo models and only on the 1g (dunno about 2g). our DC ECU dosent have that issues. id check some sensors before i went replacing the ECU, at least borrow a buddies or something before you buy. my friend "Enhance" on here had a similar issue. he could start up his car and drive it around, but after a while it would just shut off, then he had to let it sit, then restart. ended up being his cam or crank position sensor (i forget which, search it out under his name). replaced it and it ran fine after that.

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

I read the thread involving Enhance and his Camshaft Position Sensor, thanks.

In fact, I have not even thought about my CPS going bad. A while back, I had a problem with a no-start situation (thus why I have replaced so many things) and I took off the CPS to check it out visually, however, what fixed the no-start problem was replacing the Automatic Shut-down relay which had a corroded connector. However, when I put back the CPS, I must have tightened one of the bolts that secures it too tight, because there is a crack on the actual sensor. I thought nothing of it because after replacing the relay switch, my car was fine... yet, it would occasionally shut off as it does today, but not nearly as much. Could this be the origin of the problem that I have today?

I would take a picture, but I cannot find any batteries.

yeah, it very well could be. you could be getting moisture or any number of other things inside. id replace that and see if it worked, but nonetheless, it needs to be replaced even if thats not the culprit due to the cracked housing.

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

I went to Auto Zone today after work and picked up a new Camshaft Position Sensor and connector; had to splice in the new connector into the existing one. Re-installed everything, fired her up and she started & idled fine. Drove for about 7 miles to check it if it would shut off again and the very first thing it does after a few miles is buck quickly. Then at a stop light, it shut off and I had to re-start the car. So, it ended up not being the CPS, however, I do now have a brand new one.

Are there any other sensors I should take a look at that could possibly be the culprit? The only sensors I can think of at the moment that I have never replaced since owning the car for almost a year are:
-Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
-Intake Air Temperature Sensor
-Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
-Both Front & Rear Oxygen Sensors

If anyone suggests that it's the ECU, how would I go about checking this?

Thank you.

Also, what indications are there of a WORKING ECU. I believe I read somewhere along these forums, that when turning the keys to the 'on' position and your CEL turns on and then turns off, that your ECU is fine. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I apologize if I come across as unwilling, to accept the fact my ECU may indeed be bad, but you have to realize, I don't think anyone on 2GNT.com likes to replace ECUs. :o

Before replacing any more parts, you may want to check the wire harness that goes right by the EGR pipe. Its right by your cam sensor for the most part. There is a wire harness that runs right along side the driver side of the head, above the metal, silver EGR pipe. This pipe can get pretty hot, and there has been issues of wire harnesses getting too close and melting wires in the harness. This can short out the wires, which of course, wires that are signal wires from essential sensors that the ECU needs to see for the engine to run properly. Check it out, its really easy to do, and that will eliminate that potential problem.

One more thing is to replace your ASD and fuel pump relays on the driver side firewall. These can go bad, and give symtoms you describe..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I have already replaced the ASD relay a while back and have yet to check the Fuel Pump Relay. But about this wire harness you are talking about, could you possibly attach a picture with an arrow pointing to it?

I went outside and took off my intake pipe and saw a few wire harnesses and a mess of other things. I'm not sure what exactly you are talking about, however, I did see some wires that have been on the EGR pipe. The black, plastic insulation around it had melted because of the pipe, exposing the wires. Could this be what you are talking about? I just wrapped some electrical tape around it and zip-tied it away from the pipe.

I was searching around DSMtuners.com and found a thread about checking the wire harness connected to the coil-pack with a multimeter. I believe my Chilton's manual explains how to check it (I could be wrong). Would it hurt to check, or should I not even bother since I have a brand new coil-pack?

Yep, i think you found the wire harness i was talking about. If you saw the actual wires melted in that harness, you may need to repair them, not just tape them up...a few wires could possibly touch eachother, and thats not good...try that and see what happens....its free anyway

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

How would I go about repairing them? I don't know much about the electrical aspects of car repair.

Oh, these wires that were exposed, have a white outer-layer.

What Year is your car?
It is probably the ECU internal ground traces. I had the same problem as did 2 of my friends. I completely dissasembled the ECU and thoroughly examined the PCB. The main ground path goes therough this big metal plate. This is the only connection to ground within the ECU. The slots where the plate goes through the PCB and is soldered had cracked making the connection to ground intermittant. this would shut off the car and then it would start right back up at a later time. See if you can get a friends ECU to borrow and see if that makes the problem go away. if it does than you know it is your ECU that is having this problem.

Lates
James

Rest In Peace Heidi Doggy

Here is an update of everything I have tried out.

The exposed wires were not an issue, as they were not damaged at all. How I originally blocked off my EGR, I put one of the block-off plates at the front of the EGR pipe; still leaving the piping. I was retarded and did not block it off from the intake manifold. I did (removing the EGR pipe) that, as well as splicing in a new camshaft position sensor. Now, my car will only shut off as I'm idling every once in a while. The problem I had with it shutting off while driving, it now will only buck for a split second. My car also moves back and forth (stutters?) while giving it throttle in 5th gear on the highway. I do not have a Check Engine Light currently.

Also, occasionally, when I get into my car to start it, the idle will not catch unless I help it out by giving it throttle. During this, the car sounds as though it's misfiring... it really just sounds as though the car is going to stall unless I give it gas, which it does if not helped out.

I have ordered a complete Timing Belt and Water Pump kit (with pulleys) from PartsDinosaur, as I'm more than due for the change. Could my timing possibly be in whack because I can hear one or more of the pulleys making a clicking noise now that it has gotten cold here in Texas. The only clicking I used to have were that of my lifters.

About the ECU, I do not know of anyone who I can borrow theirs from.

Thank you for the help.

UPDATE:
I went ahead and replaced my front o2 sensor. The old one was fouled beyond belief.

So far I have yet to have any problems, however I have not been driving so much today as I'm home studying for exams. A check engine light did come on though. I didn't have time to run by Auto Zone to have the code pulled, but I did the keydance and I'm not exactly sure how it works, but...

It blinked once, then blinked 3 times, then another 3 times, then 2, then 5 times. I'm not sure if this is correct, because it should have blinked another 5 times to end code(s), true?

EDIT:
Actually, I got codes 12 because I disconnected the negative terminal while I replaced my o2 sensor and then code 32 for EGR solenoid circuit.

Check Items:
Harness and connector / Electric EGR transducer solenoid / EGR valve / EGR tube clogged / Vacuum hoses

I don't know where to start?! I'll update on whether or not I have problems tomorrow on my way to school.

Hi. It's your ECU. Your ECU is bad. Check the ECU. 95 ECU's have problems. Might be your ECU.

If I come across a deal on a 95 ECU, I'll purchase it. However, I'm guessing my problem lies behind the check engine light; the EGR. I'm going to unblock the EGR and put back the factory pipe, solenoid and valve to see if it fixes the problem. Because if I remember correctly, when I did the EGR block-off during the summer, this problem occured... however, I'm not too sure, worth a try though.

I'll post back after exams are over, possibly this Friday.

EDIT:
About to purchase another ECU.