I don't know what is wrong with this car I am really starting to hate it i try to crank the car and it turns over and over and over but no cranky the fuel pump isn't priming and i'm not getting spark I checked the relays on the drivers side under the hood and they checked out and I tested the fuel pump and it works so the only thing the repair manual said it was was the ECU so I get a new computer hook it up and still no cranky!!!! ahhhhhhh I'm probably going to sell it when i get it fixed let someone else deal with it haha any thoughts are much appreciated

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

I had the same issue with a buddy's 96 RS boggled us through 2 ECU's before I finally decided to yank out the crank position sensor and found it cracked. Mind you we had just swapped engines because the old engine had bad rings, but it was having the same problem with not starting any more (so we honestly thought it as the ECU). fuel pump would come on for the first 2 seconds after you turned the ignition to on position then would not come back on cuz the crank sensor was not picking up any rotation of the engine. So for shits and giggles I went to the engine we had just pulled out and yanked that crank sensor also and it was cracked exactly the same way. Replaced the sensor with one from autozone and the car started first crank and ran perfectly from that point on.

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95 Eclipse RS - Rolled
96 Eclipse GS - Traded
95 Eclipse GSX- Sold
01 Blazer LS 4.3/5spd dropped and clean DD
88 Camaro RS 361 CID with a 6spd and a bar 10 second street car on motor.

I agree with dr1665 on this, no need to get crazy yet and start talk of selling. Try the fuel pump relay , hell do the rewire. It will cost you less than the factory relay. I had similar problems a few years back.

Kevin
The old:


The new:

fuel pump relay hu? I'll check it how do i know if its bad? also i don't get any codes when i do the keydance not even the 12,55 any ideas why that might be? I was told it was probably because the computer was shot?

bump any ideas on why the check engine light wouldn't be working?

12 means nothing and 55 is end of codes so no there are no bad codes but I would bet my ass that it's either cam or crank position sensor.

OR the fuel pump relay. They can go at any time. Like for me, it went while waiting in the staging lanes at the dragstrip

I ended up running 12V from the battery bypassing the relay and the pump worked fine so I cancelled that out and bought a new relay. Worked just like that.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

i still bet its the cam or crank sensor.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

i had the exact same problem, except I could get it to start by spraying starting fluid in my CAI tube, lol. Anyways, the problem turned out to be the 2 relays by the battery.

have someone tap on them with something like the end of a screwdriver while you try to start the car. I guess when they're not completely shot this will work and your car will start.

from Satan, I bought both relays for $37. Installed them and its fired right up ever since.

ok well i guess I will try the relays and the crank and cam sensor not looking forward to changing the crank sensor that thing looks like a bitch to get too. If one of these things is out the check engine light won't even come on? like when I turn the key to the on position like i'm about to crank it the check engine light usually comes on for a second then goes off. So you are telling me that one of these items could make that light not come on??

I bet crank sensor.

Woody

First 2k Neon with SRT Swap. Full Swap
Owner of a 97 eclipse RS.
Lets see how long this stays stock.

The absolute first thing you need to do it jumper the fuel pump to force it to run. Remove the back seat and pull the sheet-metal cover over the fuel pump. Run 12V from the battery (or an amp) to the fuel pump power wire (likely black w/ blue stripe). Then run a ground from the body (or amp) to the fuel pump ground wire (likely solid black). The fuel pump should turn on and fuel should circulate. Crank the car over a few times and see what happens. If the car still will not start, then look at the crank sensor.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Or you can just ground the white wire with a red strip at the ECU...

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If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I third the cam or crank position sensor. Grab the ol' mutimeter.

AEM cam gears, .030 over, .020 milled head, Unorthodox UDP, port match intake/head, polished exhaust manifold, e-bay CAI, Magnaflow muffler

1995 GS A/T: Crushed, what started it all
1999 RS M/T: Back to stock
Mazdaspeed6: sold and quazi missed
1999 Eclipse GSX: HX35, waiting for Shep STG3

does the motor even turn? if you get nothing from even the starter you might just have bad battery cables, terminals etc. I had a similar problem, no fuel, no crank, no nothing, battery, starter, alt, fuel pump all were good, dead cables, had to rewire everything, took me two weeks to figure it out, sucked