Whenever I turn my wheel as far over as it will go, I get a nasty squeeling from my motor, (pretty sure it's the belt), also, if I have the A/C on, and turn the wheel normally, like at a turn or somthing, it does it then too. Does my belt just need tightened, or loosened? Is all I have to do is turn the little nut on my belt tensioner? Thanks!
#93359, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 0
does it do it turning R and L or just one or the other?
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#93366, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by HardaTaq Is all I have to do is turn the little nut on my belt tensioner? Thanks! -Chris
I would strongly recommend spraying the tensioner adjusting bolt completely with PB blaster or some other type of penetrating lubricant to prevent that bolt from breaking. If it is really rusty spray it let it set overnight and spray it down agian.
#93372, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 3
Ok, before I blow shit up, lemme make 100% sure I know what I'm doing (I more than likely don't)
I tried turning "A" clockwise but only a couple turns, and it still squealed. The belt didn't feel any tighter either, and the bolt turns extremely easily, so I don't think I'm tightening anything. "B" on the other hand, looks like it can't go back any furthur (ghey?). So some instruction would phukkin rock. Thanks!
#93373, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by HardaTaq Ok, before I blow shit up, lemme make 100% sure I know what I'm doing (I more than likely don't) I tried turning "A" clockwise but only a couple turns, and it still squealed. The belt didn't feel any tighter either, and the bolt turns extremely easily, so I don't think I'm tightening anything. "B" on the other hand, looks like it can't go back any furthur (ghey?). So some instruction would phukkin rock. Thanks! -Chris
ok B is the tensioner locking nut (I'm sure than't not it's actual name but you understand) this locks the tensioner in place after you have made your adjustment A is the adjustment bolt which looks to be extremely out of adjustment if it turns easily. what you have to do is loosen up the retaining nut and make your adjustment with the bolt once it starts to get tight you will feel more tension on the belt and the bolt will begin to be harder to turn. at this point check your belt slack once you can't move the belt more than half an inch in either direction it should be tight enough. tighten the locking nut back down and start it up you should be able to turn the wheel with no squeals.
________________________________________ 95 Eclipse RS - Rolled 96 Eclipse GS - Traded 95 Eclipse GSX- Sold 01 Blazer LS 4.3/5spd dropped and clean DD 88 Camaro RS 361 CID with a 6spd and a bar 10 second street car on motor.
#93384, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 6
Originally posted by HardaTaq What am I risking if I over-tighten it?
1) a broken belt 2) excess wear on the pully bearings
its very difficult to overtighten the accesory belt. just leave enough slack so that when you depress the belt it will move "in" around 1/2" (as mentioned earlier). if you are having trouble adjusting the belt with the tensioner assembly, you can also pivot the p/s pump by removing the three (i think its three?) bolts that hold it to the bracket and prying the pump towards the front bumper.
#93386, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 7
Holy shit. Okay, I'm going to try and explain this the best I can, but if it doesn't make sense, I'm sorry. About a month ago I broke the accesory belt, and had this jank ass little shop put a new one in. Ever since I got it back, the belt squealed as I mentioned before. So when I went to go tighten it this morning, I discovered why the tensioner screw was so easy to tighten. IT WASN'T TIGHTENING SHIT. The fucking hillbillies dicked up my tensioner. There's a little gap at the end of the screw, which is supposed to be inside this little bracket on the tensioner itself. This one is about an inch away from that bracket. How, you ask? Who fucking knows. They must have got Chucko the magical forrest hillfuck to alakazam this thing out of the bracket, because I can't, for the life of me, get it back in. OF COURSE they're denying everything, so now I have to go pay someone else to fix it.
#93403, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 8
Ok, I already put a post up in the FS/WTB section, but just so everyone knows, I need a new tensioner pulley. I took it up to the people today to show them they're rednecky-ness, and he goes "Oh yeah, that's what I told you about when you picked it up." I reminded him that he didn't tell me anything other than "have a good one", and he goes "Aw, whoops, well I meant too, it was already like that when we got it". GAY!
#93460, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 9
In the pic it shows your adjusting bolt out of position. Looking at the head of the bolt then there is a grooved section. this section of the bolt should be seated into the bracket. you might have to tap it in to get it to fit as it is somewhat snug.
#93462, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 10
Originally posted by Whodda In the pic it shows your adjusting bolt out of position. Looking at the head of the bolt then there is a grooved section. this section of the bolt should be seated into the bracket. you might have to tap it in to get it to fit as it is somewhat snug.
It would make things easier to remove the pully completly while reseating the bolt..or at least remove the nut completly to allow you to move the bolt into proper position to seat...
#93464, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 11
Quick solution remove the long bolt completely from the bracket (with out loosening the nut) find your self a shorter bolt the same size with the same thread size (grade 8 preferrably), a good heavy duty washer and thread it back into the bracket. The head of the bolt and the washer should seat on the bracket where the other bolt is passing through (I hope I'm making sense to you). (I'd draw nice arrows on the picture if I could figure out how to post pics) once you get the head of the bolt against the bracket loosen the nut and tighten the bolt til you take up your belt slack. tighten the nut back down take her for a test drive.
________________________________________ 95 Eclipse RS - Rolled 96 Eclipse GS - Traded 95 Eclipse GSX- Sold 01 Blazer LS 4.3/5spd dropped and clean DD 88 Camaro RS 361 CID with a 6spd and a bar 10 second street car on motor.
#93465, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 12
Originally posted by shazow1969 Quick solution remove the long bolt completely from the bracket (with out loosening the nut) find your self a shorter bolt the same size with the same thread size (grade 8 preferrably), a good heavy duty washer and thread it back into the bracket. The head of the bolt and the washer should seat on the bracket where the other bolt is passing through (I hope I'm making sense to you). (I'd draw nice arrows on the picture if I could figure out how to post pics) once you get the head of the bolt against the bracket loosen the nut and tighten the bolt til you take up your belt slack. tighten the nut back down take her for a test drive.
or just pull the p/s pump toward the bumper as per my previous post. either way will work.
#93478, "RE: Quick question" In response to Reply # 13
Well, just to make sure everything was hunky-dory I took it to a shop (an actual, reputable, performance shop this time) And they said that Hicky McFuckerton did such a number on it, that it cracked part of it, and would probably break in the near future (months, weeks, who knows) so they advised for me just to get another one. New from Chrysler they're $140. I've got a couple offers going for a considerable amount less than that, but my dad says that he'd pay for it if I got a new one (seriously, you have no idea how rare it is for my dad to pay for somthing), so I may just go that route. Either way, I need to fix it quick. Thanks for all your great help and suggestions, they're really appreciated!
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If it is really rusty spray it let it set overnight and spray it down agian.
