I already discussed this with a lot of you at the shootout but I wanted to get a general concensus. My car is tapping, really really loud. The shop wants me to sign a release form to get my car out, but I'm scared to. I originally thought the tap was a leak in my exhaust manifold, most likely the gasket, but upon listening to it more I started to worry it may be the valves. My engine is newly rebuilt, only 55 miles on it, and I have new Eaton PT cruiser lifters. The shop said it could be my lifters tapping, and that it will go away after 1000 miles of driving, but I'm skeptical, and I have to sign the release form to drive it anywhere. Anyone know whats going on?

***************************************

www.myspace.com/ashaleenicole




98 RS-T* A/T Hahn 16g on a fully built motor
98 GS* 5-spd Stock Daily Driver


Let's goooo mountaineers!

Is this the shop that installed the lifters? IF so I would tell them to recheck it to make sure. I can't see lifter tap going away in 1000 miles and I thought our were self adjusting. Noise in the valve train could be a lot of things, but with it being in the shop they prolly want to charge you to check on it. If they built it and it comes with a warrenty then what is the release for anyway?

I edited to the wiki!

No warranty on race parts. There is no warranty. Thats why they want me to sign it. but if its already having problems, and ive only test driven it twice...im not signing it!

***************************************

www.myspace.com/ashaleenicole




98 RS-T* A/T Hahn 16g on a fully built motor
98 GS* 5-spd Stock Daily Driver


Let's goooo mountaineers!

I would tell them I was not intrested in what it "could be" that I wanted to know what it WAS before signing their paper. Are they trying to charge you to trouble shoot an engine they built? I know there is no warrenty on rece parts in general, so this must be a sign off that the work is complete, is that correct? If that is the case I would tell them I am not signing off until the work is done, and it's not done if it is tapping when it shouldn't be. I can think of no reason that lifters would stop tapping after 1000 miles, and ours are self adjusting via oil if I am not mistaken.

I edited to the wiki!

What i have been told is that they have not adjusted yet because the car has not been driven enough, and that my car cannot BE driven until the release is signed. The car is complete, but still requires dyno-tuning. This is my responsibility. I am unable to get a clear perception of whether or not the car is really running as it should be because its not tuned. They dont do dyno-tuning. They say they'll take it to their guy, who will charge me 1500(!!!!!!!!)dollars. I want to take it to Extreme Motorsports, you know, home of the eight second talon...But..my shop is called Xtreme, theyre both in MD and apparently they argued over the name a long time ago. Plus, my shop is pretty annoyed with me, considering theyve broken my car about a million times and they want it gone so its my problem not theirs. Yes, this is wrong. Its how it is though. They are my friends, so i dont want to damage that, but the truth of the matter is...that they dont know what theyre doing on dsms, so i need an expert in the matter. Which i cant get it to, because of the damn release.

***************************************

www.myspace.com/ashaleenicole




98 RS-T* A/T Hahn 16g on a fully built motor
98 GS* 5-spd Stock Daily Driver


Let's goooo mountaineers!

Ask your builder for your blueprint of the motor. That will have what the lash measurements were. If he/she cannot provide that, then tell them that you will be contacting a lawyer to "discuss" the release. In short, prove me wrong or I'm going to make you extremely nervous about your shop reputation while my lawyer tells me not to sign anything. Also, a warranty CAN be provided upon THAT part seeing that it is an OEM part with a current part number. Just b/c you bought from a different vendor has little to do with it. I wouldn't sell a short block with a warranty, but a complete rebuild can have one granted you understand the nature of the purpose of that type of build-up. I've built motors for almost 7 years now. Your shop is out of line and unproffesional.

Tell the shop that they are full of 5hit and there are about ENTER TOTAL NUMBER OF 2GNT MEMBERS HERE who think you are hot and would gladly kick the 5hit out of the guys at the shop for you for free. What a bunch of scumbags.

"Yeah, we finished the work, but you can hear it's screwed up. Sign here."

Anybody telling you to "sign-off" without agreeing to cover any problems that could arise from a potential problem existing at the time of completion of their product, IN WRITING, is scamming you. Bone up on products liability law on the net and you will see what I mean.

I say have a lawyer friend call them just to discuss it and scare the shit outta them. Then see what they say.

Proud owner of a '95. Johnny Tran says the '95 VTEC just kicked in, yo.


RICE: AEM Short Ram, CI 55mm Throttle Body, GS-T Muffler, Self-Made Ground Wire Kit, Caulk, Duct Tape,
and "Stage 1 Weight Reduction" aka screws and bolts always left over from working on car.

Definately do not take your car like that. They do warranty their work and not the parts right? Tell them to fix it because you've been told by people that know what they are talking about that the lifter tick isn't supposed to be there and that they are full of shit.

-Roman

All good suggestions^^^^^ Here is a thought though, talk to the guy's who are going to tune Xtreme, and see if they would take a small trip to check it out before you sign the release form. Either way this is bullshit and I would make them confirm the issue before you sign anything. Also the lifters do not adjust themselves over hundreds of miles, they should self adjust almost instantly based on oil filling them IIRC. I remember dino saying to submerge them in oil and compress them to get a faster adjustment on initial startup IIRC. So after 55 miles and prolly several min. of run time w/ each start up they should be just fine. I'm still on my stock head, but I do not recall anyone else ever saying my lifters ticked for 500 miles but they are quiet now. I call bullshit, and I would be having some serious conversations like stated above^^^

I edited to the wiki!

Some shops refuse to use common sense. If they used a common OEM part, then I should expect to hear valvetrain noise when I buy a new PT Cruiser for the first 500 miles??? WTF? Like I said, get a blueprint of the motor. I doubt the guy wrote down what the lash was. So he's going to either make up a number, OR he'll do the right thing and pop the valve cover and just fix the problem while he's in there getting the lash measurements.

If it is lifter tick 1,000 miles of driving will not fix it. Once the lifters see a good oil pressure and a few miles of driving around they will pump up, 55 miles is more than enough.

Do not sign a release, they are looking for a way out of their own screw up.

Exile Racing Technologies
http://www.exileracing.com
Go that way, really fast, if something gets in your way... turn.

I'm with everyone else and I would not accept the car until the motor is right. I'm running the PT lifters and rockers and they never made a ticking sound even on the initial start up. If it is coming from the valve train I would say they didn't set the valve stem to seat height correctly. Hell, the engine builder probably didn't even check them and just took the word of the person that rebuilt the head (which is a no no). Also I agree with Erik, if the engine was to be blueprinted they should have a blueprint sheet with all the measurements and clearances listed.

Joe
MFG Racing

95 GS
MSnS
FP3052 coming soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1107

http://www.cardomain.com/id/95turbogs

Ask them what oil they used. I was so used to rebuilding V8's that I put straight 30w in my 420a after the rebuild and they ticked pretty loudly. After I drained it and went to 10w30, the ticking went away.

This may not be the case, but it's a thought. Just ask them outright, "did you use straight 30w for initial start-up?" If they say yes, go from there and see what oil's in it now.

Oh, and silverarrow, no leg-humping

~Luke
Facebook
1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

You're getting ripped off. Where do you live I'm gonna kick their asses for TRYING to screw over a hottie such as yourself.


PS don't mind my sig, It is NOTHING.

better than some... Greater than most

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle