Sup guys.
After reading a few post and search here on vaccum leaking, I start to worry.
Ever since my engine was REBUILT, my vaccum reading is very low.
At normal startup of the engine, as soon as it starts, right after cranking, it goes to 20inHg, then drop back to 15-16inHg after a second or so, then as the car warms up, it goes down to 12inHg to 14inHg.

I checked all my vaccum hose. I use zip ties on all the connections, and I changed all the hose to new vaccum hoses when I rebuilt. I double checked if anything snap off, but none.

What can it be?
I am starting to wonder, maybe this is the clue on to WHY MY eclipse's fuel system is screwed up (EGT shoot high)

Please give me some insight!
Gil

EDIT: I still remember before I rebuild, I get average of 20inHg at idle time. but after I rebuilt, I was thinking coz I got 8.6:1 JE piston and long rod, prolly my vaccum will be lowered. is that so?
Thanks.

Oh, almost forgot. I have no CEL, and no Misfiring.
I do hear knocking sound inside my car when idling and warmed up but I believe that's from something lose and vibration hitting it. I bearly hear it outside the car or hood open. and as soon as I move, it's gone. (step in or out of the clutch at idle doesn't do anyhing with it.)

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Hi everyone.
I cannot say I am an expert or very good at tuning fuel system.
But at least I been doing it for a while.
And yes, I don't have wideband or the super good tools.
But I definitely have MORE tools then many people. (datalogger, EGT gauge, A/f, Fuel gauge, boost gauge)

Ok, the reason I said that is because I feel I am TOTALLY have NO CLUE on what the hell my car is doing!
NONE!!!

This morning, (around 12) at about 99F outside. I let the car run till warm up completely and hot. then I tune again to get the static fuel pressure to be 31PSI. (with 31lb injectors)
and my idle fuel pressure is 22PSI. (with 14inHg at idle)

Then I drove around town, just go to autozone, auto advance parts, etc etc. then after about 45 minutes (all local), I see my vaccum is like 8-10. when my car is MOVING, but in neutral with RPM at 700RPM it goes to 8inHg. when stopped and idling, it goes to 10 or 10.5inHg.

And the same time, the stupid fuel pressure (idle PSI) drop to 17PSI
WTF. I am so LOST!!!
then I found out one thing.
I parked there for a while, thinking what the hell, then I turn off the AC, and my vaccum goes up to 15.5inHg. and fuel pressure back up to 21PSI. but as soon as I turn on A/C, the vaccume goes back down to 10 or 11inHg and fuel pressure drop to 17PSI.

But today when I first tune the car (before driving) or any other days before, this NEVER happens before!

I am so lost guys.
Please give me input!
I really need help!!!!
Gil

Edit: From before rebuilt, and after rebuilt, the ONLY thing I CHANGED in my turbo system and etc is follow:
1) Rebuilt bottom end changing compression ratio from 9.6:1 to 8.6:1
2) Changed from Small 16G turbo to a EvoIII 16G
3) No more leaking coolant and oil from HG.
4) No more blow by (zero)
5) Added coolant cool the turbo (I Tee it off to cool turbo)
6) Modded so both Radiator fans come on together
7) Changed to all electronic gauges.

Please help!!!
I have no more clue onto what to do now.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Sup guys.
and I forgot one of the MOST SHITTIEST thing.
Today when it's really hot.
When my vaccum is like 8inHg.
I check my datalogger for the first time for AIR INTAKE TEMPERATURE, it's 19xF. WTF!!!! and after that, average of 170~F.
Is that NUTZ??
And the funniest thing is (weird) as I go faster or run harder, the air intake temp goes up!
as I idle, it drops down to 15xF.

I mean, coolant, EGT, fine. the faster or harder I drive, they get hotter! but isn't the faster I go, more cooler air get in and so the intake air get cooler??

Please help guys!
I really am confused! and btw, tonite I drove out again. since it's cooler now, like 8xF. my fuel pressure (idle) is up to 24PSI, and my vaccum is up to 12inHg also (instead of 8-10inHg today)

.......

Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

3 things that i know of can cause low vacuum, a big leak, timing skipping a tooth or so, and sometimes a collapsed or overly restrictive exhaust, now you say you have no leaks, and it looks like your exhaust is pretty big, so that leaves timing, check your marks and make sure they're on

_____________________________________


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1133
*form follows function*

Thanks for your input!
I been waiting all day for reply!

Well, I know I can open that timing belt cover thing and check, but don't I have to check the crank sprocket arrow as well?
Or I just make sure the 2 cam point is together?

Thanks again.
I will do so tomorrow!
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

well just make sure that when the two cams are lined up it's at TDC, take out the #1 plug and stick in long extension and just make sure that its at the very top if you're unsure, or if you've got it put a dial indicator on top of the extension to make sure

_____________________________________


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1133
*form follows function*

Oh, thanks alot!
I never thought of that.
So when the two cams mark meets, the #1 piston should be either at the VERY TOP or at the VERY BOTTOM then.

I just doubt it be easy, since I believe even 1 tooth off, it will be VERY HARD to tell if the piston is at VERY TOP or VERY LOW.

But thanks.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

When the 2 cam marks meet, the #1 piston should be at the very top, whatever you use to check should not go very far into the cylinder. I had many vac problems with it being low at 8-12, but my problem was timing. Check that and make sure that is correct, if you can get a pic. Blackmagic is right about the 3 things that cause low vac, so check that timing and let us know since the other 2 have been checked already.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

Sup Freddy and Blackmagic.
I just went out and check. my hand is still dirty as hell, but who give a shit about my keyboard. I want my car fixed!

I lost my last hope!
I went and turn the crank pulley by jacking up the car then turn it with a ranch.
I removed the sparkplug and put a really LONG socket extension in there. I turned it completely twice (the cams marks meet twice)
and I am SURE it's dead on!
A s it is about to meet (about 1 mm to perfectly meet, the extension go to almost complete stop. and as it meet, it doesn't move, and keep turning it as it is about 1mm away from each other (mark) the extension start to go down. so I am sure it's DEAD ON! I did it twice. NOW I LOST MY LAST HOPE!
I also spent like an hour outside just to ZIP TIE everything that is related to the vaccum hose, even they are suppose to be tight already. And I checked all.
I don't use mechanic boost gauge, so it's alot easier for me to check for leaks. All the Vaccum hose are brand new!
and I never took my TB off since I got the car.

So now, can someone please give me other advice as to HOW IT GET SO LOW?
IS IT BECAUSE my compression ratio when down so much 9.6 to 8.6:1 so the vaccum is SUPPOSE to be that LOW??

Thanks guys.
I just hope this problem can be fixed!
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Sup guys, the more I drive the car, the more little things and hints I find about what's wrong with the car.
I got alot more info on the fuel tuning or vaccum issue (I think they are related.)

So this is what I found out:

I just went out for a spin, get on to the highway for about 15-20 minutes and it has a really long uphill (about 3 minutes long going 65mph)

well, anyhow, I noticed a few things.

When idling after warming up and completely hot (sitting over nite), my vaccum will be 13-14inHg.
Fuel Pressure at idling is 22PSI.

After a LONG drive (especially on highway) for about 20 minutes, the vaccum at idling will be at 8-10inHg.
Fuel Pressure will be at 18PSI.

Then now this is interesting too.
When I am idling (either just warmed up, or drove long time) if I turn off the A/C (with fan on still), vaccum will increase by 3inHg.
So at idling, I will get 15-17inHg after warmed up.
But if I turn on A/C, it will drop to the above! 13-14inHg after warmed up.

How can A/C changes the vaccum??
And the cool thing is, I drove that highway a few times this week now (to fedex) and that LONG ASS uphill. I cannot go fast at all, slow down to like 30mph and still close to 1500F.
But today, I turned off my A/C, and my EGT still higher then before I rebuilt, but I can go around 65-70mph with EGT only at 1400F. and when I go up that uphill, my EGT is at 1440F at 65mph constant. but in the mid way uphill, I TURN ON MY A/C intentionally to test it, and the EGT climbs up and up! just like before!!

So now, this is what I observed so far!
Please give me help onto how to fix this shit!
BTW.. my A/C is really cold, so it's working.
Thanks alot for your help!
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I am a little lost,also. Do you still have your egr and egr tube still on your car? I used to have mine on and it got clogged and dirty in the tube and it dropped my vacuum to around 10. I will try and think of another problem.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

When you turn on the A/C, the computer adjusts for the extra load by opening up the IAC a little to help out the idle. That can result in lower vacuum readings since it is essentially making a vacuum leak in the TB.

edit: as far as your overall vacuum problems go, I say it has something to do with tuning. The closer to the exact fuel ratio the engine needs, the higher the vacuum will be. You said that your egt's are running high didn't you? There almost most certianly is a link. The high EGT's and low vacuum could is a sign of an out of whack air-fuel ratio. Get the car tuned and your vacuum problems will probably disappear.

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

Cool guys.
you both gave me two idea to look for.
I will try for those two.
Check the EGR tube and clean it out.
and as well try to TUNE.

But seirously... I really don't know what I can do to TUNE MY CAR!
I tried in the past 3 weeks. from the screw ALL the way out (idling screw - the screw on the top of SFMU) to all the way IN. (I turn by 1/4 turn everytime)

So figures how many time I stop over and turn.
and NONE of them give me good stats.
I am lost!......

I really don't know what to do as of the mean time.
And btw, I am running 20mpg right now. INSANE!
But I am already setting my static at 31PSI and idle at 24PSI. so I doubt I am running TOO EXCESSIVE rich....

any thoughts?
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

But 96NT.
I totally agree with you that when I turn on my A/C, the engine has more load, so IAC will open more for engine to run faster to compensate.

Same for this, I try to unplug vaccum hose while the car is running. I can hear the engine REV higher then back to normal. I go inside to check the logger and gauge, everything the same. (so I bet the IAC compensate it) and when I plug the hose back in, the engine WANNA DIE, but after a second or faster, it is back to normal again.

But still, from TURNING ON A/C, you saying with A/C on, my vaccum should be at 8-10 after hot running, and 10-14 when warming up JUST BECAUSE I have A/C on causing Vaccum to be that low? I will try to tune more of course.

Thanks again.
any other ideas is great. now I am thinking of removing the EGR, since ^^^^ said it might get CLOGGED and cause problem.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I didn't mean that your vacuum should be that low when the A/C was on. I meant that it would probably be a tad lower because the IAC is gonna open a lil bit when you turn it on.

How exactly are you tuning this car? Just an SMFU?

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

yes, I am running a SFMU with bleed valve.

I don't have wideband, which I know it's the BEST way to tune.
But the car was NOT this bad before I rebuild the engine.
Now its not drivable. not form boosting, but just from regular driving!

now I am leaning though the EGR...
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro