This has been going on for about a month now. Originally thought it was bad gas because the car shut down on the highway after filling up my tank and would not stay running for more than 10 minutes or so. Turned out not to be the gas. I did some searching and pulled up a list of things to try. I've checked vacum lines for leaks, traced wires to be sure none were melted, and replaced the coil pack, plugs, and wires. The cam angle sensor was replaced when the motor was rebuilt, I have not gotten under the car to check the crank angle sensor. It was that my SAFC Was set on FLAP instead of PRESSURE. That fixed the shutting off problem for about a week.

All of a sudden out of no where it happens again. SAFC is set fine. I went back over everything, and all was fine. The only thing different is that my battery isnt holding a charge. After 2 to 4 days of sitting there, its completely dead. A new battery was ordered, but I dont think that would be the problem. I have 2 cel's which are no speed sensor signal which i've had since the rebuild (spedometer dosnt work which isnt a huge deal) and running rich. Weird thing about it is that it will not start right away after it shuts off, it takes about 1 minute, then it will start up and run just fine until it decided to die again.

The thing that I have been noticing is that the car dies only when it wants to, not under certain conditions or a time frame. Its competley random times except at idle. It will idle just fine for hours. While driving it tonite I made note of the only thing that fluctuated which was my boost gauge (mechanical). At idle it was about -15, then acelerating it would gradually go up to 0 not too fast or slow but a little faster than usual but I wouldnt be spooling. Once when it hit 0, the car shut off. While driving normally, the needle would bounce between 5-8 inches or so from number to number while at a steady RPM. I can boost just fine, tho it does sound a little weird, a tad laggy. As far as my vacum lines, I have the BOV and SFMU on their own vac sources and the EGR, boost gauge, AVCR solinoid (boost controller), and Evap on one line.

My next step was to install the MSD system I bought and replace the ECU. If anyone has any suggestions or anything, please help me out. If you need to know the setup, look at my dsmregistry link in my sig.

Thanks for any help guys. Its kinda late so sorry this was so long and whatnot. I'm just right now.

1998 GS-Turbo KANDY -- For Sale
1999 GS-Non Turbo 10th anniversary Edition

I have been in bed with Dino.....ask me for a picture!

My car does the same thing, Minus the boost thing(no turbo} but the random stalling thing I still haven't been able to figure this out yet. no one else has either. do you have a cel except the ones mentioned?

1998 GS-Turbo KANDY -- For Sale
1999 GS-Non Turbo 10th anniversary Edition

I have been in bed with Dino.....ask me for a picture!

go ahead and replace the ECU. That would be my best guess. Sounds like some kind of fuel problem instead of spark. Especially since it always dies at 0 psi. That sounds like fuel cut to me.

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

My only question about replacing the ECU is that if my problem were that, wouldnt it be constant? Or if something were fuckered up the car shouldnt idle fine the way it does.

Id like to wait to replace the ECU, its an expensive item that I might not even need. Plus that whole turning to MSnS this winter erks at me. Dont wanna buy a new ECU then buy the megasquirt this winter. /sigh

Anyone else?

1998 GS-Turbo KANDY -- For Sale
1999 GS-Non Turbo 10th anniversary Edition

I have been in bed with Dino.....ask me for a picture!

And if you don't want your shit fucked up any more than it is now you'll return that MSD system. Nothing but problems with this. Ask ETX and DJTrickee all about it.

how's your alternator? I'd have that checked before the computer, which I replaced to no avail. Just check the small things first then move on to big ones

1998 GS-Turbo KANDY -- For Sale
1999 GS-Non Turbo 10th anniversary Edition

I have been in bed with Dino.....ask me for a picture!

check the wires going from the alternator to the fusebox. mine were fried. i had a new alternator as well.

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

problems with the ecu are not always constant. For example, Dad and I had a check engine light that would come on periodically on mom's car. After running the scanner on it... it showed a problem with the ESC (electronic spark control). After running down the wires to the knock sensor and checking for voltage as it recommended, the voltage was off by 1 volt. We ran the wires down all the way to the ECU and found no breaks or frays along the way. Borrowed an ECU to put on it, and it has ran better that it has since she had it.

I also have seen a ECU go out so fast that every light on the dash blinked and the car died. Never to start again until it was replaced.

The computer will drive you crazy sometimes if it is causing problems that seem unrelated to it.

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit