Sup guys.

As some of you know.
I just finished rebuilding my engine.
Got about 200miles on my brand new engine with no boost yet still.

But in the past 1 week, I am seeing something ODD!
Seems like whenever I left my car shut off for a longer period of time, and when I try to crank it up, it will crank crank crank for like 10 second, then it will start up!!! that's really LONG!

It only happened twice so far in about 20 times startup.

Can someone please give me some hint on why this is happening?
It is a brand new engine with 8.6:1 compression ratio JE pistion. Long Rod, ....

Thanks guys.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

any codes? Could be a coolant temp sensor. Just a suggestion

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

no CEL at all.
It used to have the rear O2 sensor code, but I did the mod and now NO CODE.

The engine runs perfectly smooth once it's running.
Coolant temperature is fine.
all guage shows OK info.

EGT is fine, boost is fine, fuel pressure is fine, oil pressure is fine. and from my datalogger, coolanttemp is fine too.

But just randomly, (twice now) I have to crank it over ten seconds to start the car.

I do mean over 10 seconds, VERY VERY LONG!
Please help!
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Check all your power connections related to the starter and battery...could be a starter going bad possibly?


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1030

well, my battery is BRAND NEW. so you think it's the starter?
But it works perfectly fine except twice. once is 4 days ago, and once is yesterday.
Today so far is still perfect.

I do hear the engine is cranking thou.
So if the starter is dying or dead, shouldn't I don't hear any cranking sound?
Thanks.


BTW darkone, I did a search yesterday and read one of your post.
You mentioned about how to modify the radiator Hi/Lo fan to the AC Hi/Lo fan from the middle pin of the relay.
I did that, and I got a check engine light. (P1490) bascially saying the fan circuit has a problem. Did that happened to you as well?

Does anyone else has any opinions onto how to mod both fan to come on a always, but won't get a CEL? (I do'nt want a switch, just both all always is good) thanks all.
Gil

Edit: here is the link to the search I found:
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=4&topic_id=44379&mode=full

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I mean like checking to make sure the wires from the starter and battery are securely connected and you have a good ground secured somewhere on the frame. It could be something as simple as that, but then again not. Just trying to make a suggestion.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1030

OK. Thanks for the suggestion! I will check it today after work.
Since I just rebuilt my engine, I might forgot to tighten some wiring.
Also I took out some of the grounding kit wires so I will double check all wires. Thanks again.

Any other suggestion?
Can it be the IAC?
oh yes, one more thing. it happened a few times so far also since I rebuilt my engine.
after it started up, it might died right away, I have to give it some gas (for a split second) then it will be fine. what's up with that?
***Crank for 10 second before startup & died right away after startup doesn't have to be together***

Thanks for the input guys.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

the reason I brought up the coolant sensor is that it can be giving the ECU a false reading at startup. If it gives a false reading, the ECU will not have the fuel mixture right at startup and can cause hard starting.

Definitely something to check out.

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

ok...so should I change the coolant sensor?
Coz I have no CEL, so can it still be the coolant sensor?
Thanks.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

It CAN be. I don't have my shop manual with me right not.. but if someone has one, they should be able to tell you what numbers to look for if you have a multimeter to check it.

If you don't have a meter, get a cheap used one from someone on here to check if that's your problem. I had one, but I just sold a thermostat housing and left it in it.

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

I have the same exact problem, every morning i go to start my car it starts up slowly and takes a few seconds, but after that it is fine. I drive the car to different places and when i go to start it up afterwards it starts up perfect. The problem is only when i have left the car off overnite and for long periods of hours. I have my battery relocated to the back and the wires up front wired together, i just deal with but i will also check my grounds. I put my rebuilt motor in a few months ago and boosting great now. I am not trying to take over your thread, i can use this helpful information also, hope we figure it out.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

cool, we on the same boat, for sure I want to find out what's wrong!
Any other suggestion other then the coolant sensor?
THanks all.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Im pretty sure dude above has a Coolant sensor problem. You probably do too. One other thing to try, though this probably wont help, when you get in the car, turn the key to the on position, but don't start it, this will give the fuel pump a few seconds to fill the rail, after about 5 or more seconds then start the car. If this does help then I would check to make sure the wiring to the pump is big enough.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

mine was doing that when i had a bad batt. it was a brand new red top i just got to replace the other one that went bad too. basically the battery wasn't putting out enough power so it was struggling with the starter. it would start up easier if i would give it some gas while it was cranking but otherwise it'd just keep struggling most've the time.

-marc

funny but dumb suggestion:

Maybe try letting your fuel pump prime and build up pressure in the system before sitting there cranking it.

Otherwise check all grounds and the usual (starter...plug...coil...

-K-