Ok. I just spent the last 6 hours or so reading posts on here. Some gave me some ideas while others did not. I recently purchased the Howell Auto 2.0 block with 10.5 JE pistons Total Seal rings and what not, I'm sure your all familiar with the package.

The car sat for about 6 months in a garage waiting for money for the block after the crank bearing went out. Figured get the block and not worry about a rebuild.

Once we ripped the old busted engine out..... Which would still turn over and run like pure dog poo..... We dropped the new one in with minimal pain and suffering. Everything hooked up nicely and then came the moment of truth. Turned it over. Engine cranks and cranks and continues to crank but won't fire. We have checked all the sensors. They look in place and not switched around.We are getting compression. Fuel pump hums away. One of the relays clicks away in the engine compartment. The tachometer goes completely nuts flying all over the place and sometimes shoots straight down then comes to a rest at around 3500 - 4000 rpm. We have been working at this off and on for a good while. I've called dealerships for questions, they say bring it in and let them look, the closest one is almost 2 hours away. Expensive tow. Now I'm going to turn to you guys. You guys have tons of experince from reading your posts and maybe can give me some good info.

Note: Getting the damn thing in time has also proven a challenge. No matter how we have tried it (around 60 times now) we seem to be coming 1 tooth off.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that while checking the crank sensor for power we had an odd fluctuation from +15 to -14. This happens constantly. Little befuddled with this as well.

I would check all of your ground connections to make sure they are all in place. There are two major ground connections, one of them runs from the intake manifold to the firewall and the other from the battery to the body. Bad grounds will do crazy things with the electrical system. The other thing I can think of is that maybe you did get the cams timed right.

Oh, and one other thing to check and I know that it is stupid, but I have seen it happen. Check and make sure that you have enough fuel in the tank.

Joe
MFG Racing

95 GS
MSnS
FP3052 coming soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1107

http://www.cardomain.com/id/95turbogs

I would check your Crank Position wire and make sure there are no breaks in it. And as suggested you should check all of your grounds.

Woody

First 2k Neon with SRT Swap. Full Swap
Owner of a 97 eclipse RS.
Lets see how long this stays stock.

Also, make sure your coil pack and speed sensor wires are not swapped. They use the same connector and come from almost the same place in the main harness, and can cause all manner of fucked up things when they're backwards.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Thanks for the reply guys. I'll be going back over it all tommorow with a fine tooth comb. Full tank of 94 octane in it at moment. So truely wish it was that simple though.

I'll also double check the sensors and all the grounds. Never once thought about the grounds on it. I bet that might be the problem. There is a flat ground cable leading from the catalytic converter to the body that I know for a fact is not connected. That may be the one.

My car ran fine with out the ground connected to the cat, But it did run better when I reconnected it.