Sup guys.

I got my short block back from the shop yesterday.
And I start putting things back today.

Have 2 urgent questions, please help asap!

For the flexplate (the plate that starter use to start up engine), there are 8 bolts for it to bolts to the crank. I checked both Manuals I have, and none of them stated any torque specs for it?
So do I just tighten them down? I tighten them all down to 35ftlb with thread locks. let me know if that's good!

Second is, for the 4 bolts that bolt on to the engine block to the transmission. I cannot find their torque spec as well.
I also used thread locks on them, and just tighten them by hand.
Should there be any torque spec for them?

Thank again guys.
Gil

Here are some of the pictures!

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Not related to your question on how you are 'aseembling' your engine. Can I ask why you install your bottom end independantly of your head, oil pan, and well everything else?? I really hope your not installing the bottom end then putting the rest together. It's quite a bit easier to completely 'aseemble' the engine on a stand. Then you can also do the timing of the engine on a stand and it will be easy beyond belief.

On your question I will look in the manual and see what it says for TQ specs.

-----------------------------------

My DSM registry.......Powered By Exile Racing
VW= The joy of driving
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The wonders of 2gnt chat:

Nonrelated but how come your post don't have the trademark urgent and emphasized letters in all CAPS? I don't believe this is Gil.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

so nonrelated this and that...

But can someone pleaes verifty that the above two has no torque spec?
thanks guys.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

well... considering how i dont even have bolts in my shield, I wouldn't worry about it. Your tranny bolts hold up the shield.

Don't worry about spec for the tranny bolts either. Just get them good an tight. Say 100lbs.

and again................why don't you have the motor Built on the motor stand and then drop it in complete.

Like seriousley.

I had everything on before I put it into the car and then it only took an hour to hook up the wire harness and engine mounts.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

would you please pull the engine out and assemble it before you drop it back in, this will save you needless time asking questions and prevent the waste of precious bandwidth.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

If your talking about bolting the flexplate the crank Im sure there are specs somewhere but I just always make sure they are good and tight and yes locktite is a definate. Also I think you asked about bolting the trans up to the block and if that is the case just make sure those bolts are tight. I have never used thread lock on those as they are huge and long.

Side note: why using long rods? whats that gonna put your compression back to?

Woody

First 2k Neon with SRT Swap. Full Swap
Owner of a 97 eclipse RS.
Lets see how long this stays stock.

A long rod engine won't change the compression at all on paper, TDC and BDC are in the same places, what a long-rod setup does is raises the location of the wrist-pin in the piston in order to allow the use of a longer rod and thus achieve a better rod-ratio. This will give you a longer dwell time in order to take advantage of the flame front, it will also slow rod speeds so as to help prevent heat build-up/part failure, etc.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )