hello everyone We seem to have a big or maybe littel problem.the last 3 days we have been doing some swaping.My frined has a 95 eclipse that the motor was going out in, so we put my built 97 motor in.We also took out his AT trans and put in a MT trans.Ok as far as all the plugs and what not go, we change all the connectors rather then cange the sensors on the motor.We did the same for the MT trans.Everything went in nice and clean.Then we tryed to start the car and nothing,nothing at all. The dash light come on and all the relays click.But the sarter dose nothing the fuel pump dose not kick on whin you turn the key nothing.We also change the ECU took his out and put the one out of the 95 that the MT trans come out of.I dont realy even know were to start troubleshooting and as far I know everthing was working fine as in the starter and fuel pump thing like that. WE need help anyone got any ideas on what we should start checking or changeing???????????

Well first off make sure you changed out the newer plugs on the crank sensor and cam sensor correctly. make sure you did not flip flop the coil and speed sensor plugs....easy to do.

Since you are not cranking then pull the plug to the starter solinoid and make sure you are getting 12+ when someone turns the key. If not then start looking for a blown fuseable link. Also make syure the 4 fuseable links are connected at the battery. Since you are not getting fuel pump make sure the ECU is sendign a neg signal to the fuel pump relay when the key is turned on. note the fuel pump is only primed for 30 secs or so. make sure the ASD relay is powering up. noise is not considered testign so use a testlight. you should have a schematic so use that to make sure both relays are switching.

the starter wire does have a white plug that you could have forgotten to plug together. it is between the battery and starter.

you must have forgotten something since your not cranking.

Also MOST important...make sure the battery is charged!

Terry

Good as soon as my freind gets off work today we will check those thing. Any other ideas??

From www.armond30.com...

Did you do all of this?

<quote>
Electrical Modifications for 420A transmission swap

One of the main things you may notice if you do a transmission swap in a 420A powered car from automatic to manual is that your speedometer doesn't work, your car has a 6K rev limiter, and your reverse lights don't work There is a solution. To solve the rev limiter problem, simply use a manual transmission engine computer. This will raise yoru fuel cut to 7200 rpm and your ignition cut to 7800 rpm. To fix the reverse lights, simply get a harness plug for the manual transmission reverse switch (it is located near the front of the transmission) and run both wires to the 10 pin harness that was originally hooked to the front of the automatic transmission. One wire should be run to pin 1 on that harnes (black wire with a white stripe.....goes to the reverse light fuse) and the other wire should be hooked to pin #6 which is directly below pin 1. Pin 6 has a red wire with a blue stripe coming from it. This should get your reverse lights working again. To get the speedometer working again, you will have to get the factory plug from the M/T speed sensor (might have to get it from a junk yard) and you will need to run the #3 pin from the harness to pin 66 on the lower ecu connector. This will be a yellow wire with a white stripe. This wire is hooked in parallel with your speedometer and should still send a pulse signal to it. the middle wire from the speed sensor should be sent to pin 43 on the lower ecu harness. This will be a black wire with a green stripe. This supplies an internal ground for the circuit. The #1 pin from the speed sensor should be run to pin 44 on the lower ecu harness. This is a solid yellow wire. This supplies 8 volts to the sensor, which is the normal operating voltage. DO NOT SEND 12V TO THE SENSOR. This system works because the auto transmission computer takes signals from the intput and output speed sensors and converts that to relative speed pluses that the engine computer and speedometer can use. Without the auto transmission, the EATX-ECM has no output to the gauge or ECU. This electrical re-wire should fix this problem. Pin #3 on the speed sensor should have a little more space between the center plug than pin #1. To restore cruise control and b able to start the car, you must hook up the clutch pedal switch. the black wire with yellow stripe from the 10 pin harness used for the transaxle range switch should be located in pin #5. This wire should be hooked up to a clutch pedal switch that is grounded while depresed. </quote>

yes we put in the 95 MT ecu in.no we dont care about the revs light right now. We can't drive the car so we don't know if the speedometer is working or not.the car just will not start as in the engine will not trun over, and the fuel pump will not come on for the few sec. whin you turn the key. The battey is brand new and working.

If you guys need to know anything or need a pic's of something, to help us fix this just ask.

How did you wire the starter relay? It has to be grounded to simulate the vehicle being in park or neutral since the car started out as AT. The relay is under the radio. Also for the speedo, just run the yellow/white stripe wire directly to the gauge cluster. the speedo will then work.

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

That starter relay, my friend handeld all the stuff under the dash so I dont know, but I bet thats it. will post update later thanks

~Luke
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1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

~Luke
Facebook
1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

Don't have time to read all those long replys, so I don't know if this was suggested but there is a starter relay for MTX that AT cars do not have which is located behind the stereo. The starter relay I believe is used to only start the car when the clutch pedal is engaged. I think I only had to do this to mine when I installed a harness from a MTX vehicle. GL.

i went and looked at another 95 AT and the starter relay is there,as for the one we are working on not sure.

where about do you live

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Did you ground the black wire with yellow stripe from the 10 pin transaxle harness? It should be located in pin #5.

If you don't ground this wire, the car will not start. The proper way to fix this is to run the clutch pedal switch inline between this wire and ground, so that it is only grounded when the clutch pedal is depressed. Grounding it will work for now, though.

I'm glad I dug out that information for nothing...

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

Ok here's the update, the car no truns over it was the starter relay. and I have spark from the coil.The thing is the car will still not start.The fuel pump is not working unless I bypass the relay,I have 2 relays that I know are good we tryed them on another car.I also did the key dance and I got these codes if they are right

33 A/C clutch relay circuit, no AC so no big deal

64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure,Race cat so no big deal

22 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage too low, Fixed that

42 No MFI relay (ASD relay) output voltage at PCM, Dont know for sure.

Check to see if you are getting power to it. look for dead fuses. There is nothing that should be changed in the fuel pump wiring during the swap that I am aware of.

this could be a good time to do the fuel pump rewire if you are planning bigger things down the road.

http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=78

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

Anyone got any other ideas on what to check?

does anyone know what the ASD relay is??

plug the vacuum line. you will not need it anymore since you got rid of the regulator. If the pump is coming on, you should have fuel to the injectors. use something to press down on the valve on the fuel rail that looks like a tire valve stem. you should get fuel squirting out if the fuel pump is running.

just try it after you try to crank it. No need to do it while cranking. actually that would be dangerous.

**********************************
Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit

The car is now ruing,it was the ASD relay and the fuel lines were crossed.The out was on the in and the in was on the out.other then a small idea prob. the car is runing great.

Glad to hear you got your swap running. I hope to do this project soon, I just need to get some money together and find a tranny to buy. I have mostly everything else.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip