I need some GOOD advice from you guys that have built a head for your car. Here is what i have: auto , cai, header, exhaust, bored throttle body, plug wires. Now with the auto in mind, what cams should i use? I read a post that mentioned no one making cams that fit our cars but, they are listed on Howell.com. Do those not fit? Why? If no one makes them yet (and i don't want to wait) what lift and duration should i have my factory ones reground to? Will I need aftermarket lifters or retainers? I am getting the head "hogged out", ported and polished, and a five-angle valve job done, if any of that info helps. Also i will be staying N/A with maybe a SMALL wet shot in the future. Anyone able to help me out?

If you are not planning on raiseing the compression with aftermarket pistons then you should have the head milled to raise the compression. You should get new valvesprings and retainers to reduce the chance of valve float with the high lift and duration cams. Also aftermarket valve springs and retainers are usually lighter to reduce valvetrain weight and allow higher rpms. Make sure you get cam gears for 2 reasons. You need to be able to tune the cams for the best power and if you mill the head the cam timing will be off a little bit and these will put it back in time.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

I talked to Crower about regrind and they said normally they can only increase lift like .010"-.015" and duration like 5 to 10 degrees. But for you being auto and not going turbo I would watch it with the porting, it you go too big you will probably loose low end. I think a 3 angle valve job would suite your purpose. For the head I would recommend gasket matching and port and polish to that, light to medium work, nothign too extreme, will be good on the high end, but I think you will loose osme on the low end, and if you haven't ported/polished your intake manifold do that first.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

Ya watch out with the auto. I have an auto with ported and milled head, angle valve job, and the idle really sucks. It will stall sometimes, especially when coming to a stop, or backing up and letting off the gas too quickly. It never really stays steady, and jumps around at least 50 rpm. But when it's real bad, it will jump around from 600 to 900 rpm...not worth it in my opinion because now when you let off hte brake, the car kinda moves forward really unsmoothly. It feels kinda weird at first becase the car will pull, then slow then, then pull, so it's not smooth at all...

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

________________________________________

2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

Hey thanks for the help. So what do you guys recommend doing about the cams? Could i get cams that would help with the low-end, and fully port the head for the top-end?

I have unorthodox racing adjustable cam gears, but I have no clue how to adjust them to be setup the best, is there a set setting or is it different for every engine and how do I tune these things? It doesnt control ignition timing though right, since we have a crank trigger??
--
Brad Rickard
98 GS HRC Stage V (nuff said)

If you have cam gears you need to go to a dyno and pay the $100 or so tuning charge. They can advance or retard the opening and closing of the intake and exhaust valves for the most power. I think this would really help you out Brad with the Stage 5 and all. They may be able to get you a faster spool up with the right tuning.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

Anyone???

If you are auto, you need to stick with a street grind. The high compression grind requires a higher stall convertor for auto tranny.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

When you put cams in, the idea is to move the power band up. It does not really always make more power, just moves that power up in the band. As for the head, from the factory it is tuned to produce torque down low where you would need it it, especially with an auto. My best advice would be to leave the head alone for now and not worry about cams. At the most I would do cam gears. IF you want to really do all this, I would start by figuring out how to raise my shift to a higher RPM or you will not really get the full effect of all the money invested. OF course, I am still of the belief that the best performace mod for an auto is a tranny swap (which is very possible, has been done, and not that expensive if you do a lot of the work yourself). You will gain less weight, higher redline, and more use from your mods in general. Small displacement engines should not come with autos. They need the revs that an auto takes away. My personal opinion.

MuRiX
97 Eclipse GS HRC Stage IV+
Sitting and collecting dust most of the time..
A.D.P.
http://www.murix.com

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise

AMEN Chris, I couldn't have said it better... do the swap!

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

i hear ya, what exactly would i need to do a swap? how much should i look at spending. Who has done this? thanks

burtonboy did it, i think his totals were around $1200 or so..but all labor was done by him and his friends.


Brandon
AIM: DSMitsu95
'95 GS, Auto.
AEM CAI w/ bypass
Maxspeed Coilovers
Pilot FU STB
2 12" Pioneer IMPP's
Best ET: 17.243 @ 80.67 mph



"Illegal? Yes. Dangerous? No doubt. But for those few, fleeting seconds as we party with Power and Speed, the insanity seems to makes absolute sense."

Brandon
'95 GS, Auto.
AEM Cold Air w/ bypass valve
Front Upper Strut Brace
Maxspeed coilovers

OUCH