Ok... I searched and couldn't find an answer... everything but! What kind of temps is the intake manifold itself exposed to? 2, 3, 400 + ? I just had mine from the 1G blasted and am debating powdercoat or take it to work and shoot it with some polyurethane. I know the paint I have available can take up to about 250 without degradiing or discoloring. White is toast at about 175 if oil or petroluem hits it. I am also doing the brackets and hard water lines too. Just to keep them from falling apart from corrosion!

So now at 44 what the hell do I do?

I dont know about intake mani temps but as far as paint, why not just go get some high heat engine paint, i think they make it up to like 1500 degrees, maybe not but i know at least 500 degree, and it comes in many designer colors

"drive fast, live dangerously...look out for police"
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-Robbie

Hey Pappy,

We have an intake temp gauge on the Silvia and On a hot 30* C day the intake temps haven't gone over 150 at idle, but then come down when driving. I'm sure you could expect the same.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Yeah, intake manifolds really don't get all that hot. They probably get most of their heat just from the ambient engine bay temp then they actually do from the air entering them. Anyway, I would recommend having it powdercoated or use some DupiColor High Heat as mentioned above. However, I would NOT recommend coating it with polyurethane. I teach woodworking for a living and that stuff really isn't meant to be in high heat application (just read the storage label on the side of the can). I don't how it would react, but I'd stay away from it. Powdercoat alone would look just fine. I've had a lot of powdercoating done on my car ....

1999 Eclipse GST 4G63

500-1200* paint works good. 1600* doesn't (its powdery).
BUT
If you copout and use spraypaint instead of powdercoat, you won't be able to use most engine degreasers. Keep that in mind, as spraypainting isn't really a long term solution.

When I mentioned poly paint, I was talking about aircraft grade, aliphatic polyurethane paint. The same stuff used on military and civilian a/c as well... I only use piss can for around the house if I can't find the color I want at a reasonable price. I paint aircraft at work and have a small surplus of red. The cheapest I have found powdercoating around here is about $150 for the mani itself and then on up for the bracketing... I am still trying to get the parts I need for the 1G. Want to have her on the road by the end of summer. Thanks for the info though guys! Blair you too!!!

So now at 44 what the hell do I do?

I know a few people that have painted their blocks with regular base/clear automobile paint. Kinda cool since it matches the color of the car. They haven't had any paint to peel yet. you just have clean it really well. They say that cleaning it is easy too.

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Current Mods:
AEM V2 intake, MP 60mm TB, Accel 24lb injectors, Crane #12 cams,Ross forged 10:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, ARP head and main studs,
Ported and polished head, Crane valve springs, PT rockers and lifters, MSD coil, Accel wires, AFX underdrive pulley,
DC sports ceramic coated header, Ebay testpipe, Apex-i N1 catback, 255 lph fuel pump, Apex-i SAFC, Spec Stage III clutch, Phantom Grip,
full Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit, Tokico springs and blue shocks, Russell steel braided clutch and brake lines,
17" Koning Imagines, NOS 100 hp direct port N20 kit