Sup guys.
My g/f's car is having hesitation problem.
Here is the problem.

about 1 month ago, I took her eclipse and do some maintainance for her.
Changed oil, took of the upper intake manifold for cleaning, clean the IAC, etc.
I changed the fuel injectors also with my RED eclipse's fuel injector. since my red eclipse's fuel injectors were taken off at 60K miles, and hers is like 120K now.

After everything is done, I gave the car back to her, and after 1 week, her car SHAKES like SHIT! engine light flash, CELs... etc..
And everytime it shakes badly (BADLY), we smells GAS!

we read the CODE, misfire in cylinder 3 & 4 and injector open circuit 3 & 4.

So I changed all 4 spark plugs (doesn't help) (still CEL)
Then I changed all 4 spark wires (doesn't help) (CEL)
Then I changed the coil pack (doesn't help, then I return it) (CEL)
Then I swap back the original fuel injectors (and it helps alot!) (NO MORE CEL)

But it is still a rough and shake. but 10x better then before. and the CEL DOESN"T comes back anymore. so I buy the coil pack again, and put it in, and thought it will fix it. but NUP. same thing...

THE ONLY improvement is, it doesn't shake as much as using my fuel injectors, and doesn't smell gas anymore and no more CEL.

What can it be?
please help!
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

The shuddering you experienced is the cylinders loading up on fuel, snuffing out the spark, and basically trying to compress liquid. Thats fine, if you've got the cylinder temps and compression ratio of a diesel. The code you pulled means exactly what it says, you have an open in the injector circuit. Meaning, no ground. This would leave the injector constantly on, which explains your problem. I'd check the connector and the little pins inside the connector for some damage. Also, make sure there are no breaks in the harness. Also, could be internal damage inside the injector. Its nothing more than a small solenoid and some coils, it can go bad like anything else.

91 awd: 60-1, 880's, E-Prom, etc.
93 awd: JDM 6 bolt, K&N, full exhaust, Wally 255, otherwise stock.

R.I.P. the original "Factory Freak"
15.5's with short ram and catback only
1996 RS 5-speed

But as I said, I changed the injectors back to the original one.... but you really think is the injectors? or can it be the ECU?
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

check the ECT sensor ( big one below the thermostat). If you engine thinks it's running cold it'll dump fuel in. Damn electronic choke. As a matter of fact check all your sensors, after you do the injectors. These poeple know what the hell they're talking about. most of 'em any way

~Luke
Facebook
1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

you can get a test light, plug it at the end of every connector in the injector harness (one at a time) to see if the injectors are getting a fire signal.

-97 GS (First project, 299 whp)(sold)
- 97 RS 2.6 last numbers: 306hp, 352tq @16psi (Dead, parted out)
- 99 GS OZ, Hahn Kit, 56k miles (Sold)
--------
- 00 Nissan Maxima GLE (Daily Driver)
- 02 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro

91 awd: 60-1, 880's, E-Prom, etc.
93 awd: JDM 6 bolt, K&N, full exhaust, Wally 255, otherwise stock.

R.I.P. the original "Factory Freak"
15.5's with short ram and catback only
1996 RS 5-speed

OK, so bascially you guys think it's the "4 plugs that go to the injectors and where it RECONNECTS to the adapters under the THROTTLE body right"'s wiring is not good??

I will unplug all 4 injectors' adapter and the adapter under the throttle and use the multimeter to check it.

But why will it just NOT work? weird!

Edit: I am thinking...can it be the ECU?
About cold, the gauge shows it's at normal temperature. so it shouldn't be the choking.. and also, engine light BLINKS, so it's misfire.

(one funny thing. it only HAPPENS after it is FULLY HOT)
Like driving for like an hour, then it will happens, and it ONLY happen at SLOW SPEED. (at least more noticable at slow speed)
when on highway, or above 30mph~, it is alot less noticable or gone.

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

When you're checking the wiring, check for resistance through the wires as well. Resistance values will change significantly with temperature and loads. For example, you could have an ignition coil that operates fine at startup, but after underhood temps have risen, it starts to misfire. Just make sure all your resistance readings are next to nill. The wire and connecter itself should have next to no resistance, like .02 ohms or less. Also, check them after you've been running the engine for a while and compare the cold/hot readings.

91 awd: 60-1, 880's, E-Prom, etc.
93 awd: JDM 6 bolt, K&N, full exhaust, Wally 255, otherwise stock.

R.I.P. the original "Factory Freak"
15.5's with short ram and catback only
1996 RS 5-speed