#88382, "OK car is having a different problem now... kinda (still idle related)" Apr-17-05 02:12 PM by CarbonFiberRST
Ok I feel really dumb for asking all these questions but I don't know whats up...
Now that I have reset my computer It idles fine any time that I start the car, but as soon as I put any load on the motor and try to go back to idle, it idles like ass for about 5 seconds and the rpms drop to 500 or less and sometimes it stalls or it will rev up to about 2k then go back to a normal idle. I have lived with my speedo not working for over a year and I have gotten used to having to tap the throttle when coming to a stop and I still do it... but after it revs from me tapping it it STILL has to almost stall before idleing normal. Also, the breif power flux that occurs between the time that I turn the car off and the TT returns the power causes the exact same idle problem to occur then it will either fix itself or I have to tap the gas then it idles normal again.
Could it be the IAC? it must be something electrical imo b/c the problem occurs when the TT takes over. I JUST replaced the IAC with an Advanced autoparts unit, it doesn't look like the stock one externally and I am thinking I either got a faulty one or the "GP Sorensen" brand just sucks...
Any ideas?
Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp) Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp 2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.
#88415, "RE: OK car is having a different problem now... kinda (still idle related)" In response to Reply # 0 Apr-18-05 09:31 AM by CarbonFiberRST
Today during warm up it had more vacuum than normal. 18-19 in/hg, normally its 14-15 in/hg... And during warm up it was idleing perfect but any time I tapped the gas it would take it about 5 seconds to smooth out again and idle normal. Then on the way home it would take a few seconds every time i would stop to idle normal but as soon as it reached full operating temp it would NOT idle at all. Every stop it would stall and I would have to crank it and keep it reved up. But it drives perfect otherwise. Also while its idleing shitty it is very rich, in the 10.X afr range
Does anyone know what it could be? I need my car...
Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp) Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp 2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.
#88417, "RE: OK car is having a different problem now... kinda (still idle related)" In response to Reply # 2 Apr-18-05 10:13 AM by CarbonFiberRST
Originally posted by mcgyvr was it doing this before you replaced the IAC motor? do you still have your EGR system inplace? have you checked the pcv valve?
Yes it had the same problem before I replaced the IAC, that is the reason I replaced it. The EGR is still hooked up but I have a code for insufficeint flow (I've had this code since oct. 03') the pcv valve is the one from the valve cover to the intake manifold? I was told to remove that completely b/c I have total seal rings and I just placed a filter on the end of the hose from the valve cover and I have the vacuum line that goes to my bov and the egr hooked in that the pcv valve used to go.
EDIT: I ordered plates to block off the egr but have not received them yet. My step dad's park avenue started to idle bad when it warmed up and he said it got to the point where it would almost stall and his computer through an EGR code and he got it replaced and that fixed his problem... maybe thats my problem?
Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp) Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp 2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.
#88436, "RE: OK car is having a different problem now... kinda (still idle related)" In response to Reply # 3
It would'nt hurt to get an induction cleaning, if you have a vacuum pump you could test the egr valve. The egr does not do anything while at idle though. The egr starts working at a higher rpm then idle. If it dont work at a higher rpm then it would cause you to run lean. I would look into the map sensor as a culprit also.
#88598, "RE: OK car is having a different problem now... kinda (still idle related)" In response to Reply # 5
You did'nt say if you got a cel from it, so i'd guess you did'nt. It seems like it's loading up with fuel when you let off the gas then misses like crazy trying to burn it until it finally does. I really hate to tell you to just replace things and have it not be the problem. If you had a stethascope you could listen to the injectors at any rpm and they should be uniform, a nice steady click that will increase and stay steady with rpm. If it sounds more like a grinding while you rev the motor then the injectors are most likely partially plugged causing it just to drip fuel in at an idle instead of a fine mist. If there are any other symptoms that you can think of, let me know, it may be usefull.
#88620, "RE: OK car is having a different problem now... kinda (still idle related)" In response to Reply # 6
I will wait untill I get the egr block off kit to mess with it... I'll just keep driving my daily driver which is a terrible 94 plymoth voyager... haha its so bad.
#88813, "RE: OK car is having a different problem now... kinda (still idle related)" In response to Reply # 7
you don't need a stethoscope to listen to the injectors. Just use a long screw driver, put the business end on the top of the injector, and listen through the handle. It's a lot cheaper, with the same results. Backyard Mechanic for Life yo!
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