i have a fluidyne radiator and the cold thermostat from howellautomotive.com

sometimes i think the car is running too cold and not letting it warm up completely. my water temps are like 110 degrees and thats after i let it warm up for about 15 minutes. my fans don't even kick on. if i get rough on the car, the temp goes up some, but it will cool back down to at least 140 degrees.

anyone think this might cause a problem?

ya i would think thats no good. You should get a 170 or 180 thermostat. I think anything below 160 the comp doesnt recognize it as an operating temp (not totally sure though). Its also gonna hurt your gas mileage.

running your car that cold, you're not COMPLETELY burning off your fuel.

I don't see the correlation between having an extremely cooling radiator and not completely burning the amount of fuel in your combustion chamber. Please explain.

I understand that if target idle temperature isn't reached during warm-up, the ECU will dump fuel in.
I also understand that if the IAT is too warm, ECU will dump Fuel in to help cool.
I understand if timing is pulled in cases of knock, ECU will go into limp mode and dump fuel in to protect.

-K-

i think the ECU has a window in which it switches over to normal operating procedures and fuel trims. now i dont know *exactly* what temperatures this window is in but my guess is 110-180, any temp in there the ECU sees the car as warm and runs normally and not in warm-up mode (if you will) its funny that you ask this though, because i too have thought that my car stays to damn cold. i through a 17 code which is 'enmgine to cold for to long' a few times, lol.

edit: i dont think its anything to be worried about. a cooler engine is happier, especially in an auto-x atmosphere its good to know your cooling system is rockin. but not TO cold...obviously

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96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

110 is def way too cold. 140 is better, but still too cold. The ECU uses the CTS to determine cold fuel enrichment and fast idle. This includes keeping the motor in open loop during warm up. I'm not exactly sure at what temp it goes into closed loop, but it's prob in the 100 degree range..not that hot really.. Having a motor that is too cold can cause improper burn of the A/F mixture, as a too cool cylinder wall can make the fuel condense on it. The heat from the cylinder walls and head help to atamize the A/f mixture. This is why we have to run a lot more fuel during cold engine start up and warm up(like a choke on a carb). I believe around 170-180 would be an ideal temp..There is a lot of info on the net about coolant temps, and a google search can give you tons of info.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

i guess one way to experiment to see when the ECU enters closed loop mode is to start the car, watch the coolant temperature and as soon as the front oxygen sensor starts cycling between .2 and .8, then the ECU is in closed loop...

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

the car does seem to warm up and the a/f stuff goes just like how you are talking.. so...

i dunno.