#853, "anyone have a mod for code 34 on 97 mitsu rs w/hrc stage 1"
i have bought this car used and have nothing but problems with the code 14 map voltage too high or too low...ordered new feul cut defender and i though it fixed the problem, but i still get this problem, the people that put the turbo system on the car CUT the map sensor wires and tapped into them, will this be my problem, or will they still be okay if i make sure they are soldered properly? Also reguarding this matter does anyone know wher i can find a map sensor wiring harness, with some wire still attached to it? i checked with the dealer and the harness only is sold as a whole and it is 700$ some odd dollars....yea right....i will rewire the car myself before that......also this problem with code 34 EVAP solenoid circuit, it comes and goes as it peases, and i took to the dealer (mitsubshi) and the tested and said it was fine and that it was the aftermarket turbo....but they could not fix....so i called hahn and they told me thatit is a known problem and that it sometimes happens to only SOME cars....but no fix...i have been to a classes on fixing sensors or determining wether it is a sensor or the computer...and they told us there are ways to get around things....but they can sometimes be illeagle, i was just wondering if anyone else experinced this problem and if anyone has rigged up a manual switch for the evap circuit?
#855, "RE: anyone have a mod for code 34 on 97 mitsu rs w/hrc stage 1" In response to Reply # 1
i emailed you.check it out....but anyway i guess i will type it again.....97 rs with hrc turbo stage 1, kn cold air,ground controll coilovers, magnacore 8.5 i believe, greddy catback, enki rims on kuhmo(front) nitto(rear), short shift kit momo shift knob, lightned flywheel, and i htink that is all...
#856, "RE: anyone have a mod for code 34 on 97 mitsu rs w/hrc stage 1" In response to Reply # 2
oh i read earlier that some people were having problems withtheir autometer a/f guage...i have one hooked up will that effect the way the o2 sensor sends or recieves info?
I don't think your A/F gauge has anything to do with that. I am sure it has something to do with your map sensor senseing boost and putting out more voltage than the ECU was programmed to see. make sure your FCD is hooked up correctly. ah and about the EVAP code, I keep getting once in a while, I have looked for any fuel leaks and checked all sensors and they were all fine, so I just gave up on that, and like I said, it comes and goes away after a while.
#858, "RE: anyone have a mod for code 34 on 97 mitsu rs w/hrc stage 1" In response to Reply # 4
well there has got to be a way to switch the solenoid shut while you turn off the car, and the after restarting the car you should be able to turn the switch back on and allow the car to run in it own mode....
#859, "RE: anyone have a mod for code 34 on 97 mitsu rs w/hrc stage 1" In response to Reply # 5
the map sensor was screwed up when i got the car and the guys cut the wires instead of splicing into them and now the wires are so short that you cant fix any more i am in the search for a new harness that wont cost me 700$.....i am not a cheap ass and i know thatis the only sure fix but i would like to get a new harness for the map sensor and rewire it into the existing main harness
#860, "Some advice and answers..." In response to Reply # 6
I've had some of the same problems you were experiencing.
As far as the Map sensor wiring. Get some new 16-20 GA. wiring and redo it. I realize it's short, but I'll bet you can still get some out IF you pull out the map sensor plug (NOT the actual map sensor BUT the plug that fits into it) And examine it. On the top of it is a rubber protective screw that's flush with the top of the wiring fitament(probably yellow or purple colored). Get a small screw driver and pull it out. It's only there to keep water and other elements out. Once you do that, you should notice some more wiring from which to work. Now take your new wiring and wrap the wiring together at least 3 or 4 times. Then solder. Then wrap and solder your new wiring with the wires coming from the ECU. After that, you should be comparable to your old stock wiring.
Now, do your Fuel Mapper correctly. Strip some of your new wiring maybe an inch and WRAP 3 or 4 times the fuel mapper wires around the appropriate map sensor wires. Then solder. You should be good to go. (make sure and black tape everything afterwards and try to cover up that map sensor as much as possible to again, keep the elements out)
-----------------------
Youre right about Map sensor wires costing alot.(as you would have to purchase an entire wiring harness) Your only hope to finding some new wiring would be from a salvage yard. Otherwise, you'll be SOL. I hiop you at least have the wiring left over the complete the alternative steps I laid out above.
As far as the Evap sensor problem. I have the same thing every so often. I'm guessing we have an EXTREMELY sensitive EVAP solenoid. Mine's located in the fuel tank area I think (as are all 98's...maybe some 97's as well?), so it can go off if my gas cap isn't even tight enough. I just don't know where there may be a leak. I've looked everywhere. If you come up with an answer, tell me too. If you do have a known fuel system leak (no fuel just, vapors, use something like a gas tank sealer or "Seal-All." Both of those products are fuel resistant.
Good luck!
IF you have any other questions, you can reach me at: jboltz@warpnet.net
Jason 98' Eagle Talon ESi-T Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC
#861, "RE: Some advice and answers..." In response to Reply # 7
well i talked to the guys at the turbo mfg. they said it ws a known problem with no known answers and, with my knowledge of what they said, "well when you start your car there are some gasses in the evap tank and the solenoid is in the open condition it (if turbo)throws those gasses into the intake and it sets a code....well i have been to troubleshooting classes and i know there has to be a way to fix it (like a manual switch)but with pollution controll measures we cant mess with them, but i know there has to be a way...we just have to get these engineers to tell us, (like under the table).....if the solinoid can be manually turned off it could work....????this is my question....
#862, "RE: Some advice and answers..." In response to Reply # 7
Jason gives good advice. I would like to add:
The three pin plug for the MAP sensor is available from your dealer. It may take a bit of prodding, but the connectors and pins used in the stock harnesses are available separately.
The methods used to secure the pins into the plugs vary from connector to connector. It can be frustrating, as some of them are like a clever puzzle designed to drive you insane before you crack the code.
I have never disassembled the MAP sensor plug. If you have a mechanic friend who is familiar with automotive connectors in general, he may be able to help out with special tools and techniques. This is the best reason to buy a new connector and pins, because you can easily understand the pins before assembly. The assembled one that is on your car now can be difficult to take apart unless you understand exactly how to release the pins without damaging them. And any damage at all will generally render them unusable: this is a very critical connection for proper engine operation.
Bill Hahn Jr. 98 RS Turbo: 10.87 @ 136 MPH HRC Stage V with N20 Nation's Fastest Street FWD 2G DSM www.turbosystem.com
#863, "RE: Some advice and answers..." In response to Reply # 9
HRC....
I AM ALSO EMAILING ABOUT OTHER PROBLEM... can we put a switch in for the evap circuit....jason and i have spoken about?....i took a class with a david solomon....which teaches things like trouble shooting sensors (3-wire 2-wire-1wire-)ect.. and there are ways to get around it do you think this would work for the guys haveing the same problem as i>???
#864, "RE: Some advice and answers..." In response to Reply # 10
I've had the same problem on my 99 for a year now. (after the AFC, but before the turbo) Constant CEL unless I reset the ECU or drive the tank to fumes. All the solenoids check out OK, and seem to be getting power at the appropriate time. I'm thinking if blocking off the output side of the evap purge solenoid to see if that gets rid of the problem. On my car, at idle it's also indicating a lean condition. I think it may be from sucking in air not saturated with gas vapors?? If anyone solves this, a VFAQ is in order...
Greg
'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD '88 Chrysler Conquest TSI
Search
Printer-friendly copy
0 Users in Chat
