So I'm gonna replace one (#4) of my stock piston/ rod w/ new rings, and while I'm at it put on a MLS HG and ARP headstuds. Reason being is that I don't have enough for an all out rebuild so I need my car to last for about another 6 months till funds arrive. I got the write up on the timing belt and the factory manual and Chilton to help me out. Mike rs-t said just to pull the head off, drop the pan, remove the piston/ rod (don't damage the crank), ball hone it alittle and re-install. How do you remove the rod from the crank? and how do yo do this w/o 'damaging the crank'? Also is there a special tool to put the ring on the piston? Keep in mind I'm not taking the whole engine out the block will remain. Thanks for your help.
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

Its no too bad. You definitely have to remove the head and all the bits involved with that. Drop the pan and you can unbolt the end cap of the #4 rod. Push the piston out the top. I cleaned the cylinders out with WD-40 before honing. To protect the crank journal from grit/metal during honing, I covered the bottom of the cylinder with paper towels and plastic wrap. I used a cheap 3 stone hone and cordless drill. I used WD-40 as a lube and gave the cylinders a nice cross-hatch. Be sure to hold the stones together whenever inserting or removing the tool, so you don't scratch the cylinder in the wrong direction. It took some practice to get the speed right on the drill and the vertical motion of my arm. Altering those two factors will determine the angle of the cross-hatch. I ran the drill for several seconds and examined my work. I was looking for an even pattern from top to bottom and cross-hatch at a 45 degree angle. After you get this, you must clean the cylinder. I used brake cleaner and lots of paper towels. I cleaned until the paper towels came out spotless. Then I gave the cylinder a coat of WD-40. Then you have to fit the rings. You need a feeler gauge to measure the ring gap. Squeeze a ring into the cylinder and use the piston top to evenly push it down 2 inches. Then you can use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. When the gauge catches just a bit, that is the measurement. You have to be careful about keeping the feeler perpendicular to get a good measurement. If the gap is too small, you must file it. You can use a ring filer, dremel with flat stone, or fine hand file. The goal is to keep the end of the ring flat and square. The gap should be listed in the ring paperwork or in the shop manual. Once the rings are gapped, you can install them on the piston. Ring paperwork should direct you here. I used a band-type ring compressor to install the pistons with WD-40 as a lube. I also used moly-lube on the new bearings. Worked for me.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I'm thinking bout using a Flexhone cuz my friend said you don't have to be perfectly perpendicular to hone the cylinder. Also should I use ARP headstuds..they are kinda pricey, but can I still reuse them after I get my 'real' rebuild. Thanks
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

Corbin's got it down pretty good. Personally I would use a flex hone for the same reason you stated, but the stones will work just as well if you do it like Corbin said. Another thing I would add though is when dropping the piston in, give the cylindar a light coat of tranny fluid, this helps the ring seat faster, I don't know exactly why but it has something to do with the additives in it I think. Either way regular old Type F works great, we did this on some of the rebuilds in my shop. Make sure you get the torque settings right and good luck.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

Well I'm gonna use Topline rings..so I'll see if that comes with instructions. I got so much white smoke comming out the breather and PCV that I took some fuel line and ran both of them under the car so I wouldn't be sucking up nasty smoke. It's so freakin embarassing when I'm at a stoplight and white smoke starts billowing under the car and people look at me hella crazy while rolling up their windows. Thanks for the support guys
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

Originally posted by Corbin
Its no too bad. You definitely have to remove the head and all the bits involved with that. Drop the pan and you can unbolt the end cap of the #4 rod. Push the piston out the top. I cleaned the cylinders out with WD-40 before honing. To protect the crank journal from grit/metal during honing, I covered the bottom of the cylinder with paper towels and plastic wrap. I used a cheap 3 stone hone and cordless drill. I used WD-40 as a lube and gave the cylinders a nice cross-hatch. Be sure to hold the stones together whenever inserting or removing the tool, so you don't scratch the cylinder in the wrong direction. It took some practice to get the speed right on the drill and the vertical motion of my arm. Altering those two factors will determine the angle of the cross-hatch. I ran the drill for several seconds and examined my work. I was looking for an even pattern from top to bottom and cross-hatch at a 45 degree angle. After you get this, you must clean the cylinder. I used brake cleaner and lots of paper towels. I cleaned until the paper towels came out spotless. Then I gave the cylinder a coat of WD-40. Then you have to fit the rings. You need a feeler gauge to measure the ring gap. Squeeze a ring into the cylinder and use the piston top to evenly push it down 2 inches. Then you can use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. When the gauge catches just a bit, that is the measurement. You have to be careful about keeping the feeler perpendicular to get a good measurement. If the gap is too small, you must file it. You can use a ring filer, dremel with flat stone, or fine hand file. The goal is to keep the end of the ring flat and square. The gap should be listed in the ring paperwork or in the shop manual. Once the rings are gapped, you can install them on the piston. Ring paperwork should direct you here. I used a band-type ring compressor to install the pistons with WD-40 as a lube. I also used moly-lube on the new bearings. Worked for me. Corbin '95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

-Chris
1999 Eclipse T-GS


2.4 Project is Officially underway

You have to move up and down as the drill spins the stones. The slower the drill spins, the slower you have to move your arm. It takes practice to get the coordination right. A junk engine is a great place to improve your skills.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Okay so the Copper spray for the HG, do I need to use some sort of RTV somewhere? I don't want to get stuck in the middle and have to run to the store to get something.. THanks
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

Well, you will need RTV to re-install the valve cover (it goes at the edges of the cam caps). If you replace the head bolts, you will have to remove the cams. That means you'll need anaerobic sealant for the cam caps. You will also need a little RTV for the oil pan. The details are in the shop manual. I can't think of anything else.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Copper spray on HG? what kind of spray? I've got my head off now, waiting on a piston to come in, I'd like to put it back together the most effective way possible to eliminate problems in the future.

Umm i would say that you should not use RTV it works but itsnt the best go with oem gaskets or Fel-pro. I stay away from RTV because the can clog oil pick up screans and any small holes like the oil feed lines for the main bearings which would be a diaster if they lack any lubrication. Oh and donat use the lubricant that ARP sends with their head stud kits because it actually reduces the ammount of torque applied to the stud by about 15 ft-lbs. And you cannot reuse the ARP studs becasue they are torque-to-yeild this means you actually streach them when you tighten the head bolts down making them useless if you were to take the head off again. Good Luck with the rebuild!

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I dont want ot be a dick or anything so sorry however, as for the RTV, yes i used it on my head in the approipate places i was just saying that dont go haywire with it and use it wherever possible and coat the whole damn head in it because some nuts do thathust to be safe. And some do it just to save money on gaskets like so many people have done before. Im sorry that i didnt clarify it in the previous post. I have spent many a times cleanig up other peoples mistakes from using RTV in places it doenst belong (ie race atv engines a lot). And as for the the streching of the threads that is not where it occurs, it occurs near the top of the head bolt not at the threads as it was previously stated. And as for the torque-to-yeild i myself dont know if the arp is tty but under recent research i dicovered that they are reuable and i appoligize for the incorrect statemant.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

---

2012 2500HD LML

The head bolts will strech at the neck near the top of the head bolt not at the threads (according to my automotive encyclopedia, and Automotive engine diagonsis and repair books). And as for reusing the head bolts (stock or aftermarket, not arp though) I personally would not because they are stretched to their limit on the final torque to yeild step (usually a certian number of degrees). Also visual inspection alone is not enough because you cannot tell how much tinsel (sp?) stregth is left in the bolt (however they possible could be reused). Although, through my shop experience and my automotive professor's experience i would not reuse the bolts, and so does my prof. however the arp studs can be reused (arp's site says so). I hope this cleared up what i was trying to say, i have been under a lot of pressure lately with both of my grandparents in the hosipatal and i have been a bit flustred, and not taking time to respond properly.

So, we've gotten down to the fact that you were confusing "stock head bolts" and "ARP head studs". They certainly have different properties. That is fine. Here is what I was referring to on the stretched stock head bolts:



On several occasions, the shop manual directs you to inspect various bolt threads for necking. This is common in bolts that have yeilded. The bolt design and design of the surrounding materials (block and head) will determine how and where the yeilding occurs. Everytime you give those bolts that last quarter turn, you change their characteristics. In general, I'd always buy new bolts for the heavily loaded joints.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire