My car has been dead for a week and I need all the help I can get to start her back up! My current status: The car tries to turn over, but it only cranks. What I have done: My volt guage is reading around 11.5V. I have changed out plug wires and o2 sensor. My plugs are few weeks old and all the connections seem fine. At first, I checked my fuel pressure, found out there were no pressure. Then found out my fuel pump wasn't turning on. So, I hooked the pump(bypassed the relay) up to a constat 12V and my pump turned on. I tried to start her up, same result. My coil resistance is good. I just don't know how and what to check. Could someone tell me what steps and what things to check? I would like to have all the possible cause for this. Like how to check what sensors/relays. PLEASE HELP!!! TIA
#81378, "RE: HELP! Any info will help!" In response to Reply # 1
did a quick search and found this on another board on how to check the relays- dont know how much of a help it is...
Activate the relay and then check resistance across the switched terminals. If it is in-car you can activate the circuit and look for 12VDC or greater from the switched lead to ground
#81401, "RE: HELP! Any info will help!" In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by EvMan2345 did a quick search and found this on another board on how to check the relays- dont know how much of a help it is... Activate the relay and then check resistance across the switched terminals. If it is in-car you can activate the circuit and look for 12VDC or greater from the switched lead to ground Evan B 97 GS 90 GSX Stamford CT EvMan2345@aol.com
EvMan2345: The activated circuit didn't have any voltage to it. So I assume the relay is dead.
But then again when I hotwired(connected my battery) to the fuel pump, my pump turned on. So, I guess now all I have left is ignition. Is there an easy was to check if I'm getting power to my coils or to my plugs? I also read some stuff about cam sensor. Could that cause this to? When relays/sensors go out, do they act weired then just die or just die? I really would like to get my car running again. TIA
#81438, "RE: HELP! Any info will help!" In response to Reply # 3
My camshaft sensor went out about 6 months ago, and sometimes the car would crank and sometimes it wouldn't. If I ever did crank it, though, it was hell driving down the road. It would jerk like a mother and wouldn't get over 20 MPH. Basically undriveable. New camshaft sensor fixed it right up though. But I'm not sure if that really applies to you. Just my 2 cents.
#81445, "RE: HELP! Any info will help!" In response to Reply # 4
Alright here you check in order:
Fuel...already done no signal to pump/relay Injector pulse: Get a test light or noid light(available at any parts store). 2 ires to each injector....hook test light up across the two terminals. While cranking you should get a flixering light at the injector plug. if no light the shut car off but key on. Use testlight and make sure one of the wires is getting 12+ power. if 12+ power is there then the ASD relay is good and the ECU is sending out signal to switch it. If no power then proceed. Sensor 12+ test: At the coilpack one of the wires will have 12+ when the key is on engien off. Use testlight and check for 12+ on one of the wires (may be orange in color) if no power suspect asd circuit problem. if power ok then asd is being switched over. ASD test: ASD is a relay that gets a neg signal from ECU to switch the relay over. this relat supplies 12+ to all sensors under the hood. With key off, engine off there will be 12+ present at the relay at two of the 4 terminals. If you dont have 12+ at two of the terminals you have a fuseable link problem or shorted wire, poss fuse. Use a wire diagram for the year of your car to fine out what color wire comes from the ECU. Attach the aligator clip of your test light to the pos term of the battery. Turn key to on position and test the term of wire that comes from ECu. Test light should light up if it doesnt the ECU is not switching everything on. Poss Ecu bad. If everythign test good so far except no spark or fuel you may have a bad cam or crank sensor. Only way to see if either is bad is to view the car during cranking on a scanner for cam and crank signal. Keep inmind if you have a datalogger some with sho cam crank signal yes/no. if you do the disconnect the cam and crank ythe car. if crank is yes suspect bad cam. reverse the process and disconnect the crank sensor. if cam says no you have bad cam sensor.
Note: on our ECU if one is bad cam or crank....the scannr will just show both bad that is why you need to disconnect one while testing the other.
If this is above your head take the car to a shop.
#81451, "RE: HELP! Any info will help!" In response to Reply # 5
Hey, Star Turbo Talon and anybody else: Before I do what you have mentioned, I have an update on my car. Some strange things happened... I had my car for about three years now. Since I don't have any scanning tools, I went to autozone and rented OBD-II scanner. (I thought 95's were OBD-I, but OBD-II scanner always worked or atleast reads codes) At first, the scanner couldn't pick up anything or even recognize that it was hooked up. So I turned my car off and turned to on position...then it happened. I have never seen my check engine light ever before. Not while cranking, while driving, while nothing this past ~three years. Never came on until today. Hell, I didn't even know that it was a yellow light. Then the scanner recognized that it was plugged and started reading codes.(I have been to autozone many times and never saw that light) The code was P0412, pulsed secondary air injection crap that's been on there forever and that was it. When the check engine light came on, I noticed the sound of my car as if all the stuff sounded like usual. So I turned the car off again and then I tried starting it, guess what, it fucking started! It sounded rough and my A/F was reading crazy again(above 1.000) but after few min it idled steadly. My car smelled real funny and was shooting out dark black smoke out the exhaust. I assumed it was because of trying to start the car with hotwired fuel pump. To sum this up: after this whole thing about check engine light and started my car I turned my car off. When I tried cranking again, there were no check engine light and didn't start. After couple of tries my check engine light came on again and started. Then I herd a strange noise from the motor, so I turned my car off again. I am really confused. Could a bad ECU do this? But does that mean, it has been running bad all this time? WTF!?!!? HELP!!!
#81448, "RE: HELP! Any info will help!" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by mr_baseball_08 My camshaft sensor went out about 6 months ago, and sometimes the car would crank and sometimes it wouldn't. If I ever did crank it, though, it was hell driving down the road. It would jerk like a mother and wouldn't get over 20 MPH. Basically undriveable. New camshaft sensor fixed it right up though. But I'm not sure if that really applies to you. Just my 2 cents. JD
Did you change the sensor? The black peice that bolts up on the head? Or the connecter? Or the magnetic thing inside the black peice?
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