hi guys,
i spent about an hour and half looking through the searches for the AFX UDP and there is TONS of info on it. My problem is, is that a lot of people have problems with it and some people dont. I have the write up and i have read it and i plan to install it this weekend, but before i do is there anyone who has pictures of their install? or any advice that has not been given? Im going to get the 5 ton puller, hopefully napa has it cuz i dont have an autozone around here, put the new one in the over and all that, and then from what i read i just bang it on with a hammer until it is almost all the way on??? or as far as it goes??? sorry i am a little confused about that part.. Also, is it really necessary that i take my cruise control box out?? i dont want to but is it necessary? easy to do? also, im sure its in the searches but since i already made the 12,324,343rd post about this i might as well ask how much the goodyear gatorback belts are..

Thanks!

I've installed an AFX pulley 3 times without too much trouble. The main problem is removing the stock pulley. You should get a 3 jaw puller. You can rent or buy them for cheap. You can push against the stock bolt for the first 0.5" or so. Then you should insert a longer bolt of the same thread. Or, you can insert a long, skinnier bolt that bottoms out into the crankshaft hole. Keeping the jaws fully seated on the pulley and the puller centered on the crankshaft bolt is important. Air tools really help as the crank will try to turn. If you don't have air tools, then you'll have to jam the pulley with something to keep it from turning. I've used a crow bar before. When you are about done with the stock pulley, you should throw the AFX in the oven at 400F for about 20 minutes. Before you pull that thing out of the oven to install it, you better have a stock bolt with blue loc-tite and a pre-set torque wrench ready. You'll also need something to jam the pulley, to keep it from moving. Since the AFX pulley is hot, it will slide right on the crank. You'll need oven mitts or welding gloves. Then you should start torquing that bolt down immediatley. Once its fully torqued, you should let the pulley cool before putting the belts on. I don't know why you'd need to remove the cruise control. I've never had to do it.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

the super long skinny bolt idea is the best I've pulled several myself and have had to rethread cranks (not a good idea)

*Skrilla
"Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me"
Talon: 1st 2.4L
'97 Prelude
'04 350Z

Originally posted by etx
Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!

This is the tool you nedd to buy/rent to remove the OEM Harmonic Balancer.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=62714&group_ID=11920&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

---

2012 2500HD LML

my dad has an air wrench on his compressor that i can use.

Does anyone have any pictures though?

thanks for the help guys.

Pictures won't really help - you have to get that wheel off, prop up the engine, and take out passanger's side motor mount, and lower the engine about 2" and then you will see for yourself. Switching out a accessory pulley is pretty easy, I'd put it on about the same level of difficulty as changing brake pads and rotors, or replacing an axle.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

ive never removed a motor or even thought about removing a motor, so ill be learning some new things this weekend Even if it takes me all weekend im gonna get that frickin thing on there and working.

it started snowing here in Colorado, how does weather affect it? or does it?

edit: i realize its only 2 motor mounts but i just read what i wrote and it didnt sound right.