Just a quick howto on installing the crank sprocket.
RED - 14mmx1.5?? threaded rod, about 8 inches long GREEN - 2 nuts of the same threadpitch BLUE - Large (30-38mm) socket, 1/2" drive YELLOW - Feeler gauge
1) Insert threaded rod through the 1/2" square hole in the large socket 2) Rest crankshaft sprocket on the crank. Make sure crankshaft key is installed. 3) Thread rod into crank, using both nuts tightened against eachother to grip and turn rod. 4) Lube crankshaft with WD40 or assembly lube 5) Seize crank with a screwdriver or other solid object in starter hole, etc. 6) Tighten nut until the sprocket is about .09 - .1" from the oilpump housing 7) Pry the crankshaft towards the crankshaft sprocket and re-check clearances
This method will also work for installing the crank pulley but if you are using an impact to do the work instead of an openended wrench... you'll need a short threaded rod for the crankshaft sprocket, and a longer threaded rod for the crank pulley.
#78567, "RE: Crank Sprocket Install" In response to Reply # 2
I always use the crank pulley and drive it on with that and an impact wrench.
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#78568, "RE: Crank Sprocket Install" In response to Reply # 3 Aug-04-04 10:26 AM by thedawg
Yeah, I used to do it that way Dino, but a couple people have stripped out their crank because the factory crank bolt doesn't quite thread in far enough to get a good grip. I have a huge impact wrench that breaks things so I got paranoid. Using a threaded rod ensures it's threaded all the way in to begin with, and the first thing to strip will be the cheap nut.
#78573, "RE: Crank Sprocket Install" In response to Reply # 4
We always just pound it on with a copper mallet ("Thor") and if we're feeling cautious, we'll hold a big ass 34mm socket against it and pound that. Works every time and strips nothing.
#78574, "RE: Crank Sprocket Install" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by thedawg Yeah, I used to do it that way Dino, but a couple people have stripped out their crank because the factory crank bolt doesn't quite thread in far enough to get a good grip. I have a huge impact wrench that breaks things so I got paranoid. Using a threaded rod ensures it's threaded all the way in to begin with, and the first thing to strip will be the cheap nut.
I found out last time i did this that the long bolts in my engine stand are the same thread pitch as the crank bolt. Suddenly, it became much easier.
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#78584, "RE: Crank Sprocket Install" In response to Reply # 6
I basically did what was mentioned above. Got a 34mm socket and bashed it on with a mallet. I left about a 1/16 inch between it and the oil pump. I also smeared the crank shaft up with anti-seize before I put it on, that way if it ever needs to come again .... it should be easier.
Search
Printer-friendly copy
0 Users in Chat
. 2gnt needs these.
