Okay guys, here is what I have decided. I will get my car back, tune it, drive it 1000 miles in one day to break it in, and then try to come to the SO, possibly trailering my car if i feel its not ready. Please tell me what I should do to break in my new motor, Ive been told to change the oil VERY often, like every couple hundred miles..and to stop and go, right?? What else will be good for it??

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www.myspace.com/ashaleenicole




98 RS-T* A/T Hahn 16g on a fully built motor
98 GS* 5-spd Stock Daily Driver


Let's goooo mountaineers!

ashlee i really don't think u should do break-in in just ONE day!! give at least 4-5. ANd yes do as much stop and go as possible. please u've waited this long don't throw it away in haste. there will be a shootout next year, unless u got another 3k to throw away i'd be patient.

my car will sound like, bumbabumbubavrooooooooooooooomrooooooooahhhhhhhhhhhhh, kishhhhhh
www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=643
VW= The joy of driving
DSM= The frustration of fixing

OMG DO NOT DRIVE IT TO TEH SHOOTOUT! If you bring it, trailer it. If you break it in in one day something will either break or you will have many problems down the road.... (no pun intended)


Eh... it's commin along now imo

Matt is breaking in his motor also so ask him. He is driving 50 miles, then another 150 then another 200 and changing the oil each time. NO HIGHWAY. Just make sure you go threw all of the gears dont dont WOT until after your first or 2nd oil change. You can still take it to redline but I wouldn't boost it to high yet. Leave it at 8psi or whatever it's at now for the time being. You will have plenty of time to turn in it up when you get home and come down here to starbucks! Thats only my opinion though. Good luck getting the car done by Wednesday.

EDIT: Agreed that doing it all in one day is really pushing it, especially after all of the money and time w/o a car. Don't want to go throw that again. I say trailor it Ash, since you have one and drive it in Ohio. Just dont go crazy.
ALSO I forgot you got an auto so forget what I said about going throw all of your gears. Not sure what you do in an auto.
-Dave

2009 Corolla S - waiting until 2012 for my next toy!
*SOLD* 1992 3000GT VR4 - pearl white and 45,6xx miles!
*SOLD* 2007 Subaru Legacy GT sedan
*SOLD* 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - BPU
*SOLD* 97 Eclipse GS Star Stage 2

This is how we do it with 1000hp mustangs, works well...

500 miles stop and go 1/4-1/2 throttle with shitty cheap oil in it...

then

1000 miles stop and go and less than 5 min at a constant speed at low throttle with shitty oil in it...

then

put in some good synthetic and give it hell.

1990 Eclipse GS-T

yeah 1000 miles in one day is over 11 hours of driving in one day, not including slower than 90mph traffic or resting. the very least i would say is 3 days.

--- My 2gnt WIKI contribution ---> http://www.jamlez.com/2gnt

97 Eclipse Spyder

but but but but...............

times 4397698476945976045790894890658978409809568709865

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www.myspace.com/ashaleenicole




98 RS-T* A/T Hahn 16g on a fully built motor
98 GS* 5-spd Stock Daily Driver


Let's goooo mountaineers!

Great point by Weezle. Didn't even think how long it would take to drive that many miles. f-that. Take the Crapacura or borrow the Bimmer IMO.
-Dave

2009 Corolla S - waiting until 2012 for my next toy!
*SOLD* 1992 3000GT VR4 - pearl white and 45,6xx miles!
*SOLD* 2007 Subaru Legacy GT sedan
*SOLD* 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - BPU
*SOLD* 97 Eclipse GS Star Stage 2

Hell, I'm just taking my winter beater to the SO, next year tho, Kandy will be thur... Ash, you and I can race next year out motors will be broken in by then.......
MUWHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


Eh... it's commin along now imo

A mechanic that I trust told me after a rebuild or a new motor to drive it like you stole it.

"no nada a nanga nanga Ah ah ha ah" - Me

I was a bit curious on teh subject myself..In other post's in the performance section Ive seen people here say fuck breakin and just run it?... but frequently change the oil.

Steve-o
Top secret.

Originally posted by FlyinEsi
I guess I'll just have to live with a 500+ hp AWD 4-banger.

there's a write up somewhere I saw about the various ways of breaking in the engine and the effects it has on the way the rings seat.
I'm pretty sure you are supposed to get on it quite a bit right off the bat to heat em up.

__________________________________________________________
-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX

Sure seems like everyone has their own "idea" of how your supposed to break a motor in.

Common sense would be no WOT or high boostin.

IMO use the shitty cheap oil for the first 500 miles or less. Your going to be changing it quick, so the cheap oil will still do the job. Change again at 1000 or less depending on when you change the oil. Then take one last 250-500 trip, dump oil and put in your good shit of preference.

It shouldn't be this complicated to break in a motor. Common sense and changing the oil frequently.


*rebuild in process...too much spent and still not fast enough*
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

I have done an insane amount of research in this exact subject in the last two months. I have decided a few things after basically getting input directly from people who break in engines for a living.

1: The best way to get the rings to properly seat is to go out and do FULL rpm range pulls (after letting the car warm up with normal operating temps of course). Most people recommend finding a nice long stretch of road and doing between 15 and 20 third gear pulls from low rpm to high rpm. For some this means 2k-5k, and for others this means 2k-redline. Regardless of the semantics of exact rpm range, go out and stress the engine. Allowing the car to engine break a little bit between pulls is good too.

2: No matter what you do, the engine isn't broken in until you have run it hard. Driving 1000 miles with no boost is basically like not having driven it at all. The rings still are not seated so at 1000 miles, it is basically like driving it hard from the start, but you wasted all that time driving around slow for nothing. Actually it may be worse for the engine as you seat the rings improperly and you get massive oil blowby and lower compression than there should be.


Be smart and change the oil often. Most likely I'll change at 30-50 (to check for metal wear and anything else abnormal), 100-150 and again around 500, all with conventional oil. Some say to stick with normal oil until over 1000 so it's up to you when you switch over. Since the rings seat basically in full by 30 miles, but still need some time to completely finish the process in full, sticking with conventional oil is a good idea for a while.


The theory behind it is this: Getting on the engine is good for it, as stress on the new parts is what is needed to mate them to each other most efficiently. This is counter intuitive to us humans as we like to keep things pristine and unworn, but an engine needs wear, strees, and nasty stuff like oil and lube to run right. It needs the stress of an aggressive break in to run properly.

Another thing that is IMPERATIVE is this. Run as low boost as you possibly can, and MAKE SURE you do not knock. Knock is by far the worst thing for an engine, and is an accentuated problem for a brand new one. Run pig rich and the car will run terribly, which is fine. Just make absolutely sure you aren't knocking. Also, keep in mind that this is a controlled method and not just "beating" on the new engine. Go out and do it methodically and you'll be just fine.

Here is a good link that outlines alot of good research and points on the engine break in procedure. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It's running again shitheads.

http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=791

HybriDSM@gmail.com ; HybriDSM@hotmail.com

Think for yourself. Question authority does not always mean disagree with authority.

If life were perfect, I'd be Calvin and you'd be Hobbes.

^ Good Advice. That's exactly what I did. On the first start I let it idle until it was to operating temp. I had the wastegate actuator arm off the WG flapper so I could do the initial WOT pulls. Went out and did about 20 pulls from 15-50 mpg in 3rd gear then took it home and parked it. Next day I drove it to work normally, still with the WG flapper off so no boost. At 200 miles I reattached the wastegate flapper and ran about 12 psi. I changed the oil also. Don't put synthetic in your motor until you have about 3k miles on it. Just change it at ~200-500 and then again at 2000 then again at like 4000 with synth. Remember your oil is going to break down faster because the turbo gets it super hot. I do my plugs and oil every 3k miles religously.

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

Funny ... I didn't follow any of those methods except for the one about using conventional oil. I was doing burnouts up and down the parking lot 5 minutes after I had it running. Though I wouldn't do the same thing I did. I'd listen to Matt (Hybrid DSM). He knows what he is stalking about. Not taking the motor throughout the whole RPM range during the break-in is pretty much pointless. Don't drive around trying to stay under 4k rpms ... it won't help. And don't drive it around at a constant RPM. It'll just make the rings seat bad. Only thing is that if you're putting in a new clutch ... THAT REALLY needs to be broken in according to manufacturers instructions.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

the best way to encourage the rings to seat and the motor to break in is do this...

30-50mph pulls in 3rd then back off the throttle to simulate deceleration (-25hg) vaccuum = for rings sealing. decel down to 30mph then go back to 50mph. dont boost. do about 10-15 pulls, change the oil. 10w30 valvoline (conventional). after 1500 change it again and dont rail on it until after 3K miles, same time you do a synthetic oil change.

ive done this with all my motors, perfect compression everytime

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

i would start it up and let it run for about 5 minutes to make sure you get your oil system in full swing before you go out and do some pulls

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11.65 @ 115

oh, and everytime you start it...make sure it gets to operating temperature before you shut it off. and when you shut it off let it cool completely. do this only for the first 30 miles.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

confused...my car is auto, remember?? Remember the whole deal about me wanting to change it over and no one around here would do it becauser they said it was too complicated so i left it auto and put a transtar rebuild and shift kit on it for now? Please translate.

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www.myspace.com/ashaleenicole




98 RS-T* A/T Hahn 16g on a fully built motor
98 GS* 5-spd Stock Daily Driver


Let's goooo mountaineers!

Originally posted by ashaleenicole
confused...my car is auto, remember?? Remember the whole deal about me wanting to change it over and no one around here would do it becauser they said it was too complicated so i left it auto and put a transtar rebuild and shift kit on it for now? Please translate.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

good info in here...btw, Thura (Avenger) did a 5 spd swap in his 2g...should be able to give you some good advice.

1993 Eagle Talon Tsi FWD
6 bolt swap COMPLETE!
ACT flywheel, ACT 2600, Joe P MBC, Autometer boost guage, Buschur DP, Buschur high flow cat, prothane motor mounts, BM tranny lsd insert, K&N,balance shafts eliminated, EGR blocked, free mods, and sweet ass 16g @ 18psi.

Well there are several different "Camps" on the break in procdure. I did mine this way and have no blowby, perfect comp and no issues.. I started the car and let it run for 20-30 min, then I changed the oil. Then I took it out on the road and did a few third gear pulls with LIGHT accelration (NOT WOT) and letting the engine break itself by just letting off the throttle in gear... (basicly this gives the engine big vac. to help the rings seat. I would not reccomend boosting until after 1000 miles. Having no boost in the motor WILL NOT ruin your break in as someone mentioned above. The car does not need boost to seat the rings, or else no N/A cars would ever break in.... Basicly you want to do those inital pulls and then just drive it normally, while trying to vary the rpm's. Change your oil after the first 20-30 min of run time, then again at 50 miles, at 100 miles, then 250, and so on... That has worked for many people I know... Basicly don't beat it and don't baby it, thats my advice...

I edited to the wiki!

You people with not boosting makes no sense to me.. When some one buys a new evo or sti or any other turbo car for that matter the thing sees boost I am sure on the first test drive. Like others have said drive the car like you stole it. If there is something wrong with the motor it is going to break no matter how you drive it. If you baby it it will just take longer to break. You will be fine with beating on it.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...
www.cnnmotorsports.com

What exactly is a third gear pull??

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www.myspace.com/ashaleenicole




98 RS-T* A/T Hahn 16g on a fully built motor
98 GS* 5-spd Stock Daily Driver


Let's goooo mountaineers!

A X gear pull would be making a WOT run in a particular gear. The 3rd gear pull would be like cruising at 2-3k in 3rd gear, going WOT all the way to redline.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

WOT=???
Dont kill me, Im a noob i know.

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www.myspace.com/ashaleenicole




98 RS-T* A/T Hahn 16g on a fully built motor
98 GS* 5-spd Stock Daily Driver


Let's goooo mountaineers!

WOT = Wide Open Throttle


I have a question. Any one feel like running all the loose particles through your turbo is a bad thing? I mean, I know cars come with turbos from the factory, but why not avoid it if you can?

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

My automotive machinist teacher always told me to break in a new engine: when you first get it cranked run it to 3000 rpm just as soon as it fires up, and hold it there for 30 minutes, change the oil and go. He has been doing that shit all his life and he is in his late 50's so I'll take his word for it.

That specific advice does not apply to our engine. That advice is for engines with flat tappet lifters (non-roller). When you put in new cams and new flat tappet lifters, you keep rev the engine to 3000 rpm and hold it there for 20-30 minutes. That keeps the lifters lubricated (they rely on splash lubrication), so they will stay cool and not wear excessively as they break in. After this initial lifter break in, then you worry about the rings. Then you would break the rings in as mentioned in every post above. Since we have roller rockers (or followers) that ride on the cam, we don't have to worry about breaking in the valvetrain.