I discovered a knock not to many days ago and I have it narrowed down to either a rod bearing (see my other post)or an exhaust leak in the flex pipe. Either way if it is just an exhaust leak i still want to put some new bearings in why i'm doing the head gasket and valve seals.I plan on throwing some n20 in the mix and i want to get things up to spec.(130,000 miles)and i figured new bearings could'nt hurt. I was just wondering if anyone had any tips on how to make this go smoothly.I've done bearings before on other cars but is there anything special i should know about the 420a.thanks

if your going to halfass it then why bother with the bearings. in othr words...rebuild it.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

he wasnt asking for your opinion, he was asking how to change out the rod bearings in a smooth manner. Search NoOb!

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I'm going to "half ass" it becuase the previous owner had it rebuilt at about 100k, "half assed" the rebuild and used a single layer metal head gasket and o-ringed the seals(causing the oil leak) and replaced the bearings with genaric advance auto specials.I do know however the rest of the components he bought were quality(don't ask me why).So before spraying i figured i'd put quality bearings in, put in a multi-layer head gasket and replace the valve stem seals which are leaking(once agian "half assed" as the previous owner did not touch the head during the rebuild). The rings, rods and pistons are fine. So why spend the extra hours and downtime rebuilding the entire thing when i don't have to.

Whatever Advance Auto special bearings you have are probably made by a reputable manufacturer and fine for use in your engine. I would remove each rod cap and examine it for uneven wear. If the bearings are trashed, then you likely need to have the crank machined. Then you can install new rod and main bearings. I wouldn't just throw in new bearings. The bearings will fail for a reason and it usually involves crank journal damage. If you insist on it, you can certainly change the rod bearings from underneath. You just have to pull the rod caps and push the rod/piston up. I just re-ringed my engine in the car last week. Similar proceedure...except I pulled the head and pushed the piston/rod all the way out.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

well i replaced the flex pipe today and sure enough that was the promblem.Knock gone, thanks mcgyvr for helping me see the obvious.As for the bearings I think I'm still gonna replace them.They may have been made by a reputable company but I'd feel more comfortable reaplacing them with something i know is quality.I've thrown bearings before and I don't want to do it again. Thanks for the advice though.

when you say the previous onwer used a composite head gasket and o-ringed the seals what are you talking about? If you are referring to the little o-rings that go in the corners of the head gasket, i have them on my talon (before i new there was an updated gasket) andi shaved the corner bolts. 40,000 mi boosted 5psi an no leaks whatso ever from that spot. Not in any way saying the composite gasket is superior, years ago it was. The o-rings dont cause the leak its the Bolts that bottom out in the block. Now if your referring to the valve seals them i am lost there to, i have only seen 1style valve seal for the head and i asked the dealer about it today.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

He replaced the head gasket with a single layer metal head gasket(compared to a multi-layer steel gasket i.e fel-pro) and had the oil passages and such o-ringed, alot like the one from the factory. The head gaskets that come stock on most 420a's have o-ringed seals. The oil leak comes from heat getting to the seal around the main oil passage by the #4 cylinder.

the bearings that were put in there from advance auto were from federal mogul so i wouldn't complain. i would however complain if they were from autozone cause they sell nothing but crap.

I don't know if they were from advance, i was just using that as an example, I don't remeber exactly where they came from, i just know they were a generic brand.

I'd go anywhere but autozone, Mopar=good, but expensive, I got some Clevite 77's at Napa.

__________________________________
-Ryan

Thats what I was planing on. Mopar or clevite.

William 'Tha.Will' McGroarty

~*Roary*~
Sick Skillz

__________________________________
-Ryan

I get my info from Gary Howell and another experianced Chylsler mechanic and while i'm not disputing the fact that the corner bolts do bottom out and in fact may cause the oil leak, i'm just realaying the info i've gotten from other reputable sources.As i said I'm new to the 420a and I'm trying to soak up as much info as possible about it(thats why I'm here).Thanks for the info though.Also, does the mutli-layer gasket also solve the promblem with the bolts?

The MLS may fix the problem by itself, but I would still shave a little off the corner bolt AND install the MLS. That will make sure you don't have to do it over again.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire