Ok guys, the UDP is all the way on, the belts are are on and tightened. (Except maybe for the alt belt, I'll figure it out later.) I fux0red my stock crank bolt. Should I wait until Tuesday, maybe Wednesday before I get another stock bolt, or should I start her up without it? My G/F is coming home from out of state and I'm gonna have no mode of transportation.

Also, I think I may have owned the crank threads. Does anyone have a helicoil/tap for 12mm bolts? I'm unsure of the pitch, but I'm sure I could find it. My town is worthless when it comes to finding usefull tools.

Same question here, mine broke off, can't get it out, kinda fucked it up. I would assume the botl doesn't do much, judging by how hard you have to beat the damn thing to get in on

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

turbo8u told me it just made sure it didnt come off, that the press-fit actually held it to the crank.

i used the bolt from my passenger motor mount to take the original one off. i think you should be OK without it for a few days. you with the crank bolt broken off...that has to suck. only thing i can think of is drill a hole in the middle of the bolt, not all the way through though, and put in a reverse threaded bolt thingy and take it out that way. i did that with a spark plug and got real luck with it. none of it landed on the piston head lol. anyways it should be OK

Yeah I tried the bolt extractor, and my dumb ass drilling the bolt off to the side so I couldn't realyl grab it at all. I might just end up having to retap the hole or something.

Work in progress
98 GS t3/t04e, hrc Sidemount, tial 38mm, HKS ssq bov, clutchmaster stage 4, wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, Apexi TT, HKS EVC II, Phantom grip lsd, 3in turbo back, Eibach pro-kit, Defi D-gauge EGT,boost, autometer fuel pressure
8-inj setup in the works, HKS AIC III and 450cc injectors

i got a 1/4 inch socket stuck inside of my crank, drilled the shit out of it and ghetto rigged the bolt back in with a few washers and such. To this day ive never had a problem and from what i understand the udp will not come off..just remember how hard it was to install.

Aem Cold Air AFX 55mm TB
Fidanza Cam Gears NGK Wires
AFX UDP Greddy Header
Gutted Cat Greddy Evo Catback
Energy Suspension MMI Eibach Sportlines
Tokico Blues...always more to come

1999 Eclipse RS
Iceman CAI
AFX Underdrive Pulley
4-1 Headers
Screamin Demon Coil
GST Muffler

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Screw extractor is what you need. Drill a hole and use the extractor its the right way to fix your problem.

myspace.com/coastiecobb

What a big mess, I had the same damn thing happen to me. A friend of mine was working on my car and damaged the threads inside of the crank. Instead of chasing them with a tap he used a peice of crap helicoil kit. Then while attempting to put the UDP back on using a 1/2 ratchet it became to hard for him to turn the bolt any further. The UDP wasen't even half way on yet. My friend is a pretty big guy too he's no wimp. The reason it was so hard to turn was because the helicoil was stretching. It all ready couldn't support the pressure that was being applied. So he used a 1/2 impact and busted the bolt off in the crank. Trust me you don't want to use the helicoil its a peice of crap First try to use an extrator kit to remove the bolt. Then try to chase the threads with a tap. Both these things didn't work for me, I busted the extractor off in the bolt before it would give. And the extractor was a Snap-On. If that dosen't work might as well not use a bolt and wait for the UDP to fall off while your driving 65 mph on the freeway. Think about the problems that will lead to. That bolt is suppose to be torque down to around 105 pounds of pressure. There's no way the helicoil is going to support that. Think about the weight of the UDP and how fast it's spinning on the crank as your driving. If that bolt has no real purpose then why is it torqued to 105 pounds? You don't just want to pressure fit that thing. I know its a pain in the butt to get off and on, but again, THINK ABOUT IT I ended up going to a Mitsubishi dealer and installing a brand new bottom end. Which included the crank, bearings, gaskets, new UDP, the bolt for the UDP and labor. It set me back $2,200

i say kick your friend in the nuts. it was my fault for screwing the threads, but i tapped it and it fixed the threads. i've driven the car for the past two days. she rev's alot fee-er, but I'm somewhat not as pleased as others have been. Probably because I've been riding in my buddies twin turbo FWD 3000GT. (6psi, 10:1 CR = 9.5 @ 76 in the 1/8th)