I know .070 Dam but I had to get it flat and get the water pits out of it.but on the good side it did lower my comp a little for the turbo later done the road.But anyway about where should I set my cam gears for the best low and top end useing crane#10's cams. Just some setting to get me in the ballpark thanks

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2012 2500HD LML

i have been seaching all day cant find anything on this and yes milling does lower compression just not a great amont

milling does not decrease compression...rather increase it. because...consider this...hi comp pistons are dome shaped..so they go up closer to the head and compress the change more...since its further up there. low comp piston are dished...and therefore allow more room (in one way shape form or fashion) between the piston and head. therefore droping the head down by either milling it or the block would bring the 2 closer together...therefore increasing compression. you space the 2 with a thicker HG to decrease compression without dropping it with low comp pistons. and shit...i believe i read somewhere milling the head .035 gives you like a 10-10.5:1 compression ration...i wonder what.070 sets you at?!?

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

so what should i set my cam gears at or about tp get started

you have around a 0.1 increase in your compression ratio for each 0.005 removed either on the block or the head it's an average value close enought

with stock pistons 9.6:1 removing so much would give around 11:1 plus or minus 0.1

with the extra lift of an aftermarket cam, valve clearance could start to be an issue if you are playing too much with a cam pulley

Alain

one of the 2.4 true pionners

lol, you will be the first 2gnt with cams and 11:1 CR. goodluck getting it setup correctly. =)

Anytime you put the head closer to the pistons you are lowering the comp I know this and I have been told by many engine Builders that is what happens.as far as my pistons go they are je 9:1.everytime I post on the forum asking for a little help or some info on something I get nothing but BULL SHIT and SMARTASS REPLY.Dam i mean just answer the fucking ?.asked if you cant then just shut the fuck up

dude, your wrong, and calm down no need to get bitchy...

basically what was said by everyone who posted is correct, your runnin high compression 11.1 and cams, and basically no one here has really ventured into that territory yet, so the best answer you can get is this

Go to a dyno with wideband o2 sensor and tune, tune,tune, no one can tell you whats best for your setup. you need dyno tuning..seriously

and are you sure its not .007 milled off ... cause if its really .07 you need to get your fuel setup cause thats high compresion and stock fuel setup is not good for that. at least get a msd ignition and a better fuel setup, ie larger injectors,etc..

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

i dont see where anyone was being an asshole in their reply just stating facts. if your running 11:1 compression, AND adding a turbo youll be walking a fine fine line. hi comp + turbo = major PITA and lots of tuning...more than what your looking at right now..which is alot. you cant run as much boost on a hi comp setup as you can a low setup like 8.8:1

and about compression, just use common sense. make a cup with one hand, and a fist with the other. if you drive the fisted hand up further (like a piston) into the cupped hand...your compressing the area...where as if you stop before it starts to touch..its not compressed as much...hence lower compression

id get your tuning issues figured out and find out exactly what your running...then worry about a turbo later. if in fact you are running 11:1 compression and still wanna boost, it may mean either a new head or a thick HG, and some lower comp pistons. and if your mechanic thinks milling the head decreases compression...its time to look for another mechanic

-----------------------------------------
2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

Originally posted by 96eclipse2nr
i dont see where anyone was being an asshole in their reply just stating facts. if your running 11:1 compression, AND adding a turbo youll be walking a fine fine line. hi comp + turbo = major PITA and lots of tuning...more than what your looking at right now..which is alot. you cant run as much boost on a hi comp setup as you can a low setup like 8.8:1 and about compression, just use common sense. make a cup with one hand, and a fist with the other. if you drive the fisted hand up further (like a piston) into the cupped hand...your compressing the area...where as if you stop before it starts to touch..its not compressed as much...hence lower compression id get your tuning issues figured out and find out exactly what your running...then worry about a turbo later. if in fact you are running 11:1 compression and still wanna boost, it may mean either a new head or a thick HG, and some lower comp pistons. and if your mechanic thinks milling the head decreases compression...its time to look for another mechanic

Having Problems? Heres my Three step solution to anything 2gnt related.
Step 1: Put down everything in your hands.
Step 2: Grab a lucky strike, Smoke it.
Step 3: Walk to the fridge, double fist some keystone ice, sit down in the shade, drink one beer, finish cigarette, drink other beer, roll a joint, smoke it, walk back to your problem, and in about 5 minutes the solution will come to you.
If not. Go here: here

If still nothing, your trying to hard. Start over at step 1.

Great now I being made fun because I cant't spell right dam what next.Is anyone going to help me out or just make jokes.

I see a potentially dangerous situation with your setup. Milling the head .070 is way too much. If it needed that much to make it work, the head *should* have been discarded. Thats just my thoughts though. .070 is quite a bit of material, which will raise up your compresssion ratio to at least the 11 range. Now you say you have cams also, which most add a little valve lift in the process. So now you already have less clearance(if any actually) with the milled head, between the pistons and valve faces, and now you have increased valve lift with the cams. I personally would not want to try to use that head. Even still, if you plan on boosting, I hope you will be happy with very low boost on pump gas..I guess if anything, I would try and find a really thick head gasket to get back that area that was taken off the head, and get your CR back to a more boost friendly level.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

well great 3500 in parts hard work and sweet and blood for nothing

see kids this is what happens when you have too much money to spend and not enough knowledge to do it correctly.



like what was said above you can try to fix your problem with a THICK headgasket, but your best bet is to get another head and start the buildup again, seems like youve got the money

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

There's a place in North Houston that has a few heads, I'll get the name and PM it with the phone number to you. I saw them there one day. As far as a Dyno, my brother and I will be heading to San Antonio to Dyno our stuff here within a few weeks. We're renting it for a day, so I'll let you know how they are.

~Luke
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1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

Sorry bout the kid comment, I just figured with the way you write sentences you must be like 5 years old or so..

and now you wrecked the car huh, idiot...

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

How bad is the car? I'm near Rosenberg/Richmond. Can I take a look at it?

~Luke
Facebook
1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

6200 in damage but there going to replace everything thats was fuck up even my 600 CF june hood. So sorry nothing for sell.So back to needing help on my comp.sorry if I come off as asshole or aggressive but I thought I was doing right and now I find out it's all wrong.so now to run a turbo I need to get a new head a little bit thicker head gaskit and I should be good to run high boots.As long I have it tuned right buy someone who know more then me.

Before getting a new head, you could check your valve clearence first. With the motor on a stand you could put a small layer of grease on the piston, rest the head on it, put a timing belt on it, and turn the motor over by hand slowly & gently to see if it hits. If not, check to see of there's grease on the vavle, and how far it pushed into the grease on the piston if there is. Basically, by milling the head, you made the combustion chamber smaller (upped compression by 1.4 points if my calculations are correct according to their above listed numbers) and put the valves closer to the piston (.070 closer), but the #10 cams don't have a really high lift. The crower stage 2 cams have .065" more lift (which would put the valve that much closer to the piston and still have room, only .005" difference). The Crower 3 has .122" more lift than the #10, and, if those are direct bolt ons, then your head *should* work, going by the numbers. Our pistons already have valve reliefs in them to accomodate for higher lift, but I don't know for how much. With a .120" dish, it may be about the same as stock for valve clearence, if not more if it's got the reliefs. I know the geometry will be a little different for the vavle reliefs since the head is milled, but if you can run .446" vavle lift stock, then .324" vavle lift with a .070 mill, you should be okay. I'd say go for it. I'm not too far from you off 59 if you want to get together when you're putting everything together if you still want to try it. I would go with a thicker head gasket anyway, though.

Your pistons are probably 8.8:1, and with a head mill of .070, that would bring you to about 10.2:1, which isn't bad. I think DR1665 is running 10.5:1.

With forged internals, you could put boost to it, just not a whole lot.

If you put the head on it, it spins with clearence, go for it IMO. Later if you want to put a lot of PSI to it, change your head then. Run the head N/A now, the compression will help...

"if you're gonna be a bear, you might as well be a grizzly"

~Luke
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1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

This taken from FierroRacing.com, who is doing the race port on my head right now for ERT...


This is what it looks like when you have the head milled .040 to raise compression.
This the intake valve and the edge of the combustion chamber, I would say this is the most you an safely mill the head and still have about .005 more to mill if you want to have the head milled for straightness again.

More info from this site can be found fierroracing.com/New_Port_Page.html

Awesome! Depending how much playdo you put, you probably have plenty of room. Put the b00st to it...

~Luke
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1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

Wo0t! The next mod should be calling 1-800-ABCDEFG (Just playin)

I just called JE and gave them the part number for my pistons.They told me that they are 8.8.As for how much got milled off I'll find out tom.

my head was only milled .007 not .070 so what now.

um.. stick the head on? thats all im giving. since you seem pissy. read up. i dont even know what your asking anyways.

o w n e d by stupidity!!!!!!!!!!!!1111111111111111111111111111111111

FS: 2.5" Test Pipe 25 shipped

Okay, that puts you at like ~8.9:1 compression. You've got nothing to worry about. Drive it, put the b00st to it later, ignore all that was said earlier about your shite being f00ked...

As far as where to set cam gears for low & top end, you can't, you need to choose which you want, bottom end or top end, it's a trade off when playing with cam timing, can't really have both...

~Luke
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1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

was this even real?... I mean, seriously?



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know me as santiago
boosted 420a and ej2o..(my 2liter v8 eaters)