I got the crank sprocket on and I've read a few posts about installing it, but not seen anything about how close or far it should be from the oil pump other than someone here (don't remember who) putting it on too far he thought.

How much clearance should I have between the sprocket and the pump? I don't see anything in the FSM about it.

Thanks!

99GS MT | Star Stage 2 | GC coilovers | HurriganeGS tie bars | Tokico Illuminas | 17x7 Enkei RS5 | Baer track brakes |+

I've never actually measured it, but its prob somewhere like .020. Its really close. I just usually tighten down the crank drive pulley all the way, and that will push the sprocket right where it needs to be..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

all i do is heat it up with my torch on the ground, place it on the end of the crank and give it like 2 solids wacks with a meaty hammer right dead in the middle and it wont go down any farther, i put in the crank bolt and torque it down and ive never had a problem, its actually one of the easiest parts for me to get on

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

I pound it on cold with a copper mallet and a big ass metric socket. I always make sure I can get my index fingernail in there, but snug. Also, if you cut a slice out of a beer can (since you may have plenty of them around), you shouldn't have any trouble slipping it between there.

So, the point is, fingernail snug, tin can sidewall, easy.

Cool! Thanks guys. Even if I don't have the tools, I can always measure to those requirements

99GS MT | Star Stage 2 | GC coilovers | HurriganeGS tie bars | Tokico Illuminas | 17x7 Enkei RS5 | Baer track brakes |+

Somewhere in the factory specs is a number for "crankshaft endplay". I just added an arbitrary .010 to that number. Throw the appropriate feeler gauge between the oilpump and sprocket and hit it with the impact wrench until it bottoms out on the feeler. Remove feeler and you're set.

This has led to perfect lateral alignment on all 5 of the engines I've built. The sprocket is what aligns the timing belt on the other pullies, etc. so its important to get this right. If your timing belt ends up too close to one side once you start the engine up, you'll have to move the crank pulley some to line it up.

It's SUPPOSED to bottom out on a chamfer on the crank, but I either can't feel it contact, or my oil pumps are too fat.