Hesitation and missing only under acceleration?..and only up to 4k rpms?
Plugs are brand new, recorrected the crossed coil pack wiring, and wires look fine. The car rev's perfectly and idles perfectly. No oil leaking into the spark plug wells, and plug gaps are .050. All sensors are hooked up and no CEL's. I smell gas while going down the road, and the hesitation is so bad that i can gain speed even on flat roads. After 4k rpms the car goes as normal.
If the timing were off my idle would be crap and i would hear popping while reving. If a sensor were on the way out i would have noticed before i broke the motor down for the head rebuild. My battery is new and the alternator was tested before the rebuild. Im running out of thing to check here. I dont have a compression tester and i dont have the money to buy one, if the compression were bad im sure my idle would be crappy as well. This has to be a sensor/air/fuel/spark issue, but i just dont know.
Also, when the car is cold it runs much better, but after it warms to normal temp it starts doing this hesitating.
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#72576, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 0
by wires "looking" fine, do you mean you have tested their resistance? Recently, my car was popping and I took an ohmmeter to them. The problem didn't show that way, but I still had this feeling the wires were the problem. I bought some new ones at NAPA and it solved the problem. some wires prematurely fail IMO maybe you should just try that even if they "look" fine
2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild... Daily: Volt Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO
#72578, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 1
i havent actually checked the resistance of the wires, i just figured they were ok since i just did the head rebuild and they were fine. Although, two of the wires that i spliced for the new coil were touching and i just got those fixed, is it possible that they wires were shorted or damaged since the wires crossed?
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#72590, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by EclipsedChef is it possible that they wires were shorted or damaged since the wires crossed?
Yes.
If you have a local 2GNTer nearby, maybe you could swap wires as a test before you drop any money on new ones, but the wires just go sometimes. I tested mine when I had the stutters and they ohmed out perfectly. We pulled the specific code with a PocketLogger and it said "Misfire - Cylider #3." Swapped wires from #2 and #3, cleared codes and ran her again. Code came back, said "Misfire - Cylinder #2." You can get good Bosch wires from Autozone for under $40.
#72603, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 4 Apr-10-04 04:55 AM by EclipsedChef
so yes to replacing the plug wires..is there anything else i should be looking out for?
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#72610, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 5
well i replaced the wires today and its still doing the same shit. I do have a CEL for the EGR valve now, could this cause the hesitation?
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#72614, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 6
Looks like it's time to sell it and buy a turbo. (Thought you could use a laugh) At this poisnt I would look lcosely at your wiring harness where it goes near the EGR tube and the block. Time to time people will will have the harness melt through the insulation and cause intermittent shorting (usually resulting in the car dying completely, but still) when the wires come into contact with the frame or the block.
Also, how do you know your CMP and CKP are good? Just because they're installed and connected, doesn't mean they're fine. While I personally don't know how you go about testing these, it might be a good idea to do so. They're pretty tough, but they aren't bullet proof (or are they?).
#72616, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 7
well i talked to some people, and i remembered that i dont have a thermostat installed, and im also getting a code for my egr valve. I just went and bought some aluminum plating and im going to make another block off kit for that. Im also installing the thermostat. I'll let you know if any of this helps.
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#72617, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 8
well i just installed the thermostat and blocked off the egr and the hesitation is still there and still just as bad as before. Could this my clutch? It doesnt show the symptoms of a bad clutch but im honestly running out of parts to check. The only thing i can really think of is the Crank position sensor, the cam position sensor is fairly new. Guys, i cant take this to a shop because they never find out what the problem is and i honestly dont know what else to do...
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#72632, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 9
well, just finished talking to some people and come to find out i think i have a wrong cam gear. One of my gears has 10 degrees of adjustment and + - signs, and the other has 12 degrees of adjustment and 12's where the + and - should be. So, the 12 degree gear is on my exhaust cam, which means that its probably lined up incorrectly, which explains why the marks were off when i lined the timing up with the stock gears and replaced them with the fidanza's. So, im going to try and adjust the gears tomorrow. Any input?
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#72636, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 10
Something else to look for... Your Engine Coolant Temp Sensor could be going or gone. If it is giving a false reading to the ECU/ECM, it could cause a rich condition at lower RPM's where you don't want it. That will cause the smell of the gas hesitation due to too much fuel in the cylinder and clearing then clearing of the problem at higher rev's. The resistance for the sensor should be 9-11 Ohms @ 77 or .6 - .8 Ohms @ 212. Let me know... I have the service manuals for the 98 & 95 Talons and they have a lot of info and test procedures... too much to list here but maybe we can narrow it down for you. Ricky
#72640, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 11
that was the first sensor tested when i took it in to a local shop.
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#72683, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 12
Ok... From the book under hesitation sag or stumble (which is the only thing that fits given the symptoms that you listed, and I am paraphrasing here; You have no DTC's. Check the injectors for an EVEN rythmic sound. Long screw driver or Mechanics Stethescope will enable you to listen. If one of those is a problem then you will hear it as a gap in the rythm. I am betting that those are just fine. Supposing that they are ok, Check your fuel pressure, 46 - 49 PSI on a 95 NT If good it continues on to say check the following Ignition system, EGR system, Compression Pressure, and then the fuel filter or line for clogging. There is a lot more on the list for use with a scan tool but I am guessing that you don't have one so I didn't write it in... I hope that this maybe gives you an idea or two. If you have already tried this stuff then I am sorry for not being able to be more helpful. Good luck!
#72684, "RE: What causes....." In response to Reply # 13
thanks for your info, im going to try everything i can
Aem Cold Air AFX 55mm TB Fidanza Cam Gears NGK Wires AFX UDP Greddy Header Gutted Cat Greddy Evo Catback Energy Suspension MMI Eibach Sportlines Tokico Blues...always more to come
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(Thought you could use a laugh) At this poisnt I would look lcosely at your wiring harness where it goes near the EGR tube and the block. Time to time people will will have the harness melt through the insulation and cause intermittent shorting (usually resulting in the car dying completely, but still) when the wires come into contact with the frame or the block. 