Wow, where do i begin...a fairly simple cam gear install turned into 24(no lie) straight hours of drilling into the crankshaft trying to remove a socket. We were using a normal 3 jaw 5 ton pulley puller and used a socket as an anchor for the dowel, well the air gun pushed the socket ALL THE WAY into the crankshaft where the bolt goes. After drilling for 24 hours there was still a chunk of socket there and we had to ghetto rig the bolt so i could at least drive it home. There is probably 10 ft lbs of torque holding the balancer bolt in with a little blue thread locker for support. Am i going to have to drill the crank out a size larger and tap/install a new bolt? Will that work??

Next problem...After finishing the timing which was perfectly on time, i noticed that my exhaust cam gear had slipped(on the inside) and it was at -6..or 6 degrees of retard. If i were to turn it back to 0 would it be set on stock timing?..or does -6 equal stock timing now?

Next problem...Both of the bolts that hold the front of the crossmember on to the frame either broke or stripped, and now im running without it bolted on. Can these bolts be retapped and new bolts installed?

Next problem...The car feels MUCH stronger, even though im yet to pass 3k rpms, i didnt want the balancer bolt to come out...but im still getting hesitation. With the timing retard issue after doing the timing, i went ahead and set the exhaust cam to -2 and the intake cam to +2..do you think this is a simple tuning issue? I guess this question will be answered with the timing question above.

Next problem...I hear a ticking around the valve cover now. After the car warmed up after the first start, it went away after five minutes or so..but soon came back. I think im a bit low on oil so i'll add a quart or so when i get back. Idling is normal and i really dont think its valve tap but i could definetly be wrong. Reving the motor while sitting gives me a nice tone without any miss or popping noises..thats why i think the valves are ok. Please help guys and i know this is long but i need detailed answers to what i can do about all of this..and for the tapping/drilling of the crank, what size drill bit will i need(stock bolt is half inch) Thanks alot and sorry for such a long post
This project wore me out and now im on spring break for a week, so the car is just sitting

EclipsedChef was my first name..Member #460!

::::..Under Construction..::::

You realize the dampner bolt doesn't hold the pulley on, right?

_________________________________________
I'm the guy that bans you for breaking the rules. I am the troll killer. I am the law here.

then what exactly does the bolt do?

EclipsedChef was my first name..Member #460!

::::..Under Construction..::::

We couldnt use the right pulley puller, b/c it was n/a (not available) we used a regular 5 ton 3 jaw puller, which I do not recommend using, but it is all we could get, I stress on using the chrysler 3 jaw harmonic puller 27139, but it was rented out at all nearby locations. I have used a reg puller before and did the socket idea and had complete success, but this time we didnt. I agree w/ you though that that bolt is there not to hold the pulley on, but support it and prevent slippage. we would have used duct tape to hold it on, but couldnt find any, j/k.

~STV~

ack, u sound like what I went through to do my failed UDP/cam gear install. couldn't get a centering cap for the 3jaw5ton puller so I tried to use a socket. just ended up slipping on the surface of the crank. at least you got somewhere with the project though. and no, when the gear slips to 6degrees, it's not the new stock timing. putting it back to 0 will be stock timing (assuming u don't have AEM gears)

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

fyi, the easy way to do it w/ the 3 jaw puller is to buy a steel dowel rod from lowes that is nearly the same diameter as your bolt. make sure its smooth and doesn't have any threads on the dowel rod. put it in the bolt hole, mark it, cut off excess and now you have a perfect mating area for the 3 jaw puller. this should only be used if the proper tool isn't available anywhere and you have to do the job. the 3 jaw puller does work just much more time consuming.

400whp or bust.

E gads Don't ever put anything in the crank bolt hole EXCEPT the crank bolt! I swear I have seen so many posts of how people have gotten things stuck in there and all that mess. I say this all the time, and I just don't get why this is so hard to do. Just use the crank bolt as a stop for the puller! Back it out like 1/4" at a time, then use the puller till the pulley hits the bolt head. Take off the puller, back the bolt out another 1/4" and do it again, until you have the pulley off. I can get the stock pulley off in about 5 minutes or so using this technique and a 3 jaw, 5 ton puller. Just stop sticking things in the hole!

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

my crank is re-threaded, works like a charm.

xtremers always has good advice, listen to what he's saying. i have my own method of getting a 420a crank pulley off but its also a custom made tool (have lots of those) lol

and yea, that crank bolt doesnt actually hold the pulley on, its a press fit. that bolt is overkill imo
_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

When i removed my crank pully the crank bolt was too short to pull the pully off, i took a longer bolt same threads, just finished threading it with a die to the bolt head. used a bit to gring a dimple in the bolt head so the puller has a recess to sit in. this bolt was used then to install the crank pully as well. I think going and renting the chry puller is a joke, waste of time, and it supports satan. I dont share the choise of a dowel but if it worked for you then good. if you damage something then oh well life sucks you learn the hard way For the time you take renting and using the chry puller i have mine off with a 5 ton puller in about 3 mins without an impact. I dont recommend using an impact on any puller, you can damage your tool and cause undue stress to the pulley as well.

as far as special tools go....if you cant get it on a snap on truck....you dont need it! last i checked snaop/matco/mac/cornhole/or craftsdick dont carry gm/chry/for/mitsu ect specialty tools. yes they make their own brand to get the job done.

Terry



96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion - Niche 17" chrome shoks - Stillen front and rear sway bars - Koni yellows wrapped with eibach - Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - Tenzo-R seats/4 pt harness - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 355 neon tranny, stage 2 MIBA clutch, Power doors, 450 Turbo injectors, Adj Fuel reg/return line, Backseat eliminator kit(my design), GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Ok, so im going to have my crank rethreaded with a new bolt and such, the crossmember bolt holes rethreaded and bolted, add oil, and pray that something works this time.

Would you reccommend setting the gears to 0,0 and then going from there to tune? With the head milled .050 i figured -2 on the exhaust would be good.

also, i fixed a peice of my fuel line with rubber hose, and the hose was extremely hard to get on the line itself, could this be restricting the flow of fuel at all?

Keep the comments coming!

EclipsedChef was my first name..Member #460!

::::..Under Construction..::::

I would start with cam gears at 0,0 and make sure everything is ok first then tune away. Which cam gears did you get, did you lay them on top the old ones and remark them. I read a thread about this a while back and the cam gears sold for our cars are actually for the neon and timing is wrong, off by a tooth i think.

Why do you have to rethread the crossmember? What happened?

Your not the same guy that got a socket stuck inthe crank about a month ago are you? If not dont worry your not the first to do that one.

Terry




96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion - Niche 17" chrome shoks - Stillen front and rear sway bars - Koni yellows wrapped with eibach - Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - Tenzo-R seats/4 pt harness - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 355 neon tranny, stage 2 MIBA clutch, Power doors, 450 Turbo injectors, Adj Fuel reg/return line, Backseat eliminator kit(my design), GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

oh and the fuel line what size line do you have and what size rubber hose did you use. As a rule of thumb if you have 3/8 line then use 3/8 hose.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion - Niche 17" chrome shoks - Stillen front and rear sway bars - Koni yellows wrapped with eibach - Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - Tenzo-R seats/4 pt harness - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 355 neon tranny, stage 2 MIBA clutch, Power doors, 450 Turbo injectors, Adj Fuel reg/return line, Backseat eliminator kit(my design), GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

dude, i had the same damn thing happen to me with the front cross member bolts after my headgasket install. i went absolutly f'n crazy on those bolts for probably 3 hours and that was with my impact wrench! i finally managed to just cram them in there. i'm in big trouble when i do my clutch install, cause that means the cross member comes down again. i would say go nuts on them with an impact wrench, that's my only suggestion. good luck with the rest of the stuff though!

i think the fuel line is one size smaller than the actual fuel line from the gas tank, it was very hard to get on there. I will start with 0,0 when i get back to town and go from there. I did line the gears up(Fidanza's) with the stockers and they were dead on. The crossmember bolts stripped and broke when we tried to put them back in..they werent lined up i supposed.

Would the smaller fuel line account for the missing again since it could be restricting the gas flow.

EclipsedChef was my first name..Member #460!

::::..Under Construction..::::

bump..anyone know anything about the fuel issue?

EclipsedChef was my first name..Member #460!

::::..Under Construction..::::

take a picture if you can, im not sure exaclty what you had to repair or whatever, it *might* be restricting the flow yes, if its a smaller hose. get a picture up if you can though

you have a fuel pressure gauge? you can also check the line pressure at the test port on the fuel rail if you're not turboed and still have the schraeder valve in
_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

silent souls leave .308 holes

the hose i used is 1/4 inch..anyone know the size of the metal fuel line? I redid my gears today..the intake cam was set at +5!!! Im running -3 exhaust and -1 intake and it seems to be running a bit better, but in third gear i still dont get all the power that i think it should have. Any more input??

EclipsedChef was my first name..Member #460!

::::..Under Construction..::::