Im trying to take off my engine mount bracket to take off the timing belt cover but i cannot get 2 of the bolts to move at all. Ive been trying at it for the last few hours. Ive tried everything i can think of and they wont move at all. The wrentch will just slip off after I apply lots of force. And the bolt that I did get off is too long to get out. What are the solution to these problems?

Have you tried jacking the engine up a little to relieve some tension from the bolts? Stick a piece of wood under there before you jack up on it. It shouldn't take much.





I got the sonic if you got the boom.

Best way to remove them is with an impact...i guess you dont have one so the next best thing is a breakerbar and socket. AS for the bolt that goes through the rubber mount.....you need to remove the overflow bottle and bracket, the power steering resevoir i think needs to come out.

Jacking up the engine is important as well as previously stated.

Hope this helps

Terry

I already have the main part of the engine mount off, its the silver part that is over the timing belt that connects to the engine mount. theres only about 2"max between the bolts and the frame of the car, i cant get them off.

oh ok i know the spot your in now....here is what i did. loosen all the bolts on the large bracket youi are removing. get any out you can, i think some of them will come out, 1 if i recall will not its too long. If ou leave the long bolts in the bracket and try to squeeze the bracket out it will come out, try jacking up the motor as much as you can to give you some room. it will come out with the bolt still dangling in the bracket.

Terry

as for them being tight i used a long ratchet and short socket if i recall. the other method would be a long box wrench for a positive grip.

Terry

I got all but one of the screws out. The last bolt is stripped quite badly, how should i get this one out?

oh boy that is going to be tough. If its stripped so bad to cant use a wrench then get a pnuematic grinder inthere and cut the head off. once the get the timing all apart you cant get a set of vise grips in to remove the rest of the bolt.

you will need a 180 grinder....it looks like a straight grinder not a 90 degree or anything. and buy a carbid bit for it as well. the bit will rip the bolt head pretty quick. obviously you will need a compressor as well.

Terry

they are 15mm bolts, 4" long, dont cut the head off until absolutely nothing else can be done, go to sears or autozone, buy the roundoff's, get the size for a 15mm head, put it on, and turn it w/ a wrench, it works like a dream, and they shouldnt be torqued down so much that the head of the bolt strips.. maybe the last person used threadlocker or somethin, dont do this.. after you get them out, you can simply drill 2 holes .75 in diameter in the sides of your well, just pinpoint the exact spots, so you can put them in and take them out easier in the future. you can take that bracket off by loosening that last bolt all the way, until you can move it in the block and out w/o turning it.. that means its not on threads anymore, and by simply jackin up your engine and moving the motor mount bracket back and forth, it'll come out I promise.........If you havent taken your crank pulley off yet, rent a harmonic pulley puller from autozone (59 bucks and you get it back when you return it) its part number 27139, works great, you gotta use a small socket on the end of it, 8mm short socket I believe, to give the rest of the dowels length to pull it off.. g'luck man, that stripped bolt will come out I'm sure.. also to give it more torque, put a wrench over that round off socket, and place a closed end wrench in the open end of the first wrench, flip it around and bamb, you got some torque on that bad boy. g'luck man

~STV~

I went to autozone and got a lowprofile stripped bolt remover and it worked great. Tomorrow I will have to drill the holes to get out the 2 screws, then I will try to wiggle the engine mount out. Now its time to take off my camshaft sprockets because im replacing the head gasket. Any special advice for this? Thanks for all of your help, it is very, very appreciated.

They way I find easiest to remove the camshaft sprockets is to (once the engine is rotated to TDC and then the timing belt is removed), rotate the crank shaft so that it's 45* from TDC going CCW so you don't have to worry about smashing your valves. Then get a small pry bar and wedge it between the sprocket and the corresponding rear timing belt cover bolt (once you look at it you'll see what I mean), then use a breaker bar and remove the sprockets, I believe the bolts are 17mm @ 71 ft/lbs.

As to rounding things off, always use 6 point sockets when working with bolts w/ a lot of torque, especially when removing them (such as motor mount bolts, cam shaft sprocket bolts, etc...).

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

So I do the above proceedure with the TB off correct? After I take off the sprockets what will happen if the camshafts are moved? Is there something so I can put the cams back on and align them properly?

to get the timing belt off, take the crank pulley off, which I guess you have off already right? take off the engine mount, engine mount bracket, front timing belt cover, then the timing tensioner cylinder, move the tensioner pulley and the belt will come off. make sure everything is rotated to TDC you'll see the marks on the harmonic dampener and the oil pump and the cam gears lines are facing eachother, take the belt off then, rotate the hormonic dampener to the left 45 degrees, where it is loose, and then the new easy way I found out to take it off, is put a screw driver in the sprockets of the gear where the hole is for such a thing, and take it off, and it is at 75ft lbs(close enough), just make sure you dont rotate anythign that much when doing it just in case, then you are gonna have to take off the wiring that goes around the valve cover, under the intake mani (b/c its connected to the intake mani bracket), disconnect the fuel from the fuel rail and the upper intake mani wiring to get hte head off completely.. or if you just wanna flip it onto where your battery was, you can leave some stuff one and flip it over, but I just rather take it out. buy a mls headgasket (napa) copper spray(napa/autozone) and new head bolts/studs(napa for the bolts, howell for the studs) when you install the cams again, make sure you dont just lube them, you grease the hell out of them w/ engine lube or vasoline or something like that, if you buy a chiltons manual it says everything in there pretty much, or search on here some for the installation for everything, this site can save ya some major cash.. g'luck man if you need any other help hit me up on aim RAWDAWGSTV

~STV~

Ok, currently I have my vale cover off, camshafts and sprockets, head bolts and most of that other good stuff. I want to completely roemove the head. Im having trouble with the intake and exhaust mainifolds. Do i have to completely remove the intake manifold? Which bolts should I undo? Same question for the exhaust. Thank you. -brian

Do not remove the intake, leave it on. There are two brackets on the bottom side that need to be loosened 15 mm i think. Remove the exhaust manifold from the head and block bracket, pull it out of the way. The intake manifold will lift with the head and save you avout 45 mins of labor.

Terry