Im trying to replace my timing belt but i cant get the large pully off of the crankshaft. I bought a puller but i have some questions. Are the treads of the puller supposed to go into the crankshaft or just stay out and rotate on the hole? I started to turn it but i thought i was doing something wrong because the pully screw was not going into the crankshaft. I was also turning it very hard and nothing was happening. Any info about this proceedure would be appreciated.

There is a little hat that is supposed to block the puller threads from going into the crankshaft hole. Use a small socket if you don't have the hat.

go to autozone and rent the crysler harmonic damper puller. thats what youre supposed to use and it works very easily

---Harry. My car topped out at 140 this morning. I need "turvo." Two of 'em. And Harry, I need the glue to be dry by tonight.---








engine:Je Forged pistons .20
Eagle connecting rods
crankscraper
3-angle valve job
mild p/p
Crower stage 2 cams
Crowers valve springs
Aem cam gears
Pacesetter 4-2-1 headers
AEM V2 CAI
Unorthodox underdrive pulley
Final Drive gears from 99 Stratus
Transgo shift kit
Hayden 6 pass trans. cooler

~STV~

Well that explains alot for me. I was afraid I was doing it wrong. Thanks for your help. BACK TO AUTOZONE!!

How much does the above puller cost to rent?

$60 but you get your money back when you return it. I put the puller on with the long rod, screwed the screw all the way in and nothing happened. I had the puller attached to the center of the large pully. Am I doing something wrong?

How about doing it the easy way. Just put in the stock crankshaft pulley bolt, leave it around 1/4" out, and put the center shaft of the puller touching the pulley bolt. Once you get the pulley touching the bolt agian, back it out another 1/4". Once you get it off a ways, get a longer crank bolt then get the rest of the pulley off. It works everytime for me. You should use a longer crank bolt when the pulley is on the last part of the crank, so as to keep enough threads of the bolt into the crank to not do any thread damage. If you don't have a longer bolt, most puller's have a cone shaped end piece that can rest in the crank bolt hole. Use nothing but a 3 jaw, 5 ton puller.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

silly nubbins. a nice trick to get the thing off in no time is to use the puller stated directly above, 3 jaw 5 ton. but take a mapp gas torch, propane or whatever and heat your pulley in the center where it mounts to the crank. when metal heats it expands, when it expands it makes it easier to pull. same for reinstall. toss it in an oven at 500 deg for about 30 minutes then hit it hammer, but use something to take the blow, like a block of wood. hitting hot metal tends to bend hot metal. be careful not to heat your timing belt cover at the same time, use a small flame and your in there like swim wear

400whp or bust.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

add heat to his method and its still easier. i've done it both with and without, i promise you it takes 4 minutes to heat it up enough to relieve a ton of tension. good luck

400whp or bust.

It may help but with this particular puller, it's hardly necessary. Because as stated above, it takes literally no time to use this baby. In fact, you'd probably have the pulley off in the time it took you to fire up the torch and heat up the CS snout.

Just an FYI to anybody: The puller myself and others are referring to is NOT a 3 jaw 5-ton puller. It's a much beefier puller and specific to this job. Using a generic 3 jaw 5-ton puller works, but is hardly "easy" and requires some finessing (bolt work, heating...etc.)

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

I did this by buying an $8 puller from NAPA, and cutting the head off of a long bolt that slid in the hole flush with the outer part of the hole, drilled a small recess in the end of the headless bolt, then put the puller on and voila! ...off came the pulley! Now whenever I need to do it I have the parts. Worked for me.

Hey Pyroman415??? If you would have put an 8mm 1/4" short socket (craftsman incase it breaks, so it's covered) it would have popped right off, right now you are about an 3/16" from havin it off. By putting the socket on the long rod it adds about 1/8", trust me dude, only do this, I am not saying i know more than these other guys (except for the ones agree'ing w/ me ) but I've done this I'd say alot more than they have (the puller part) and I can do it seriously in like a minute tops, no heating, no nothing, putting it on is easier heated, but I do it now w/o heating it, b/c I've done so many things taking it off, I just put a block of wood on there and nail that fucker most of the way on to get it started and then bolt it in the rest of the way. You did lower the engine right? by takin the engine mount off? b/c that could cause you not pulling it all the way off.. and DO the socket thing, it ls that much shy from pullin off, and it wont hurt the puller at all I promise. peace man

~STV~

Ok, ill try that when I get home. Im at school right now. I still have my engine mount on. So do I need to remove the engine mount before I can get the pully off?

use the recommended tool from autozone for easiest results. Right tool for the right job! As far as the install- the heating method works great, but I found that using a propane torch to heat it only took about 4 or 5 minutes instead of 30

---Harry. My car topped out at 140 this morning. I need "turvo." Two of 'em. And Harry, I need the glue to be dry by tonight.---








engine:Je Forged pistons .20
Eagle connecting rods
crankscraper
3-angle valve job
mild p/p
Crower stage 2 cams
Crowers valve springs
Aem cam gears
Pacesetter 4-2-1 headers
AEM V2 CAI
Unorthodox underdrive pulley
Final Drive gears from 99 Stratus
Transgo shift kit
Hayden 6 pass trans. cooler

I tried the above procedure and it was working good but the pullys are hitting the frame of the car twords the top of the pully so i cant get it out. any suggestions?

Heheh, yeah you have to unbolt the passenger side motor mount and sometimes drop the center crossmember, and lower the motor down a few inches until it has enough clearance to come off.

i believe i took out the 4 bolts holding up the crossmember, then removed the bolt from the passenger side motor mount so that the motor would drop an inch or 2.

---Harry. My car topped out at 140 this morning. I need "turvo." Two of 'em. And Harry, I need the glue to be dry by tonight.---








engine:Je Forged pistons .20
Eagle connecting rods
crankscraper
3-angle valve job
mild p/p
Crower stage 2 cams
Crowers valve springs
Aem cam gears
Pacesetter 4-2-1 headers
AEM V2 CAI
Unorthodox underdrive pulley
Final Drive gears from 99 Stratus
Transgo shift kit
Hayden 6 pass trans. cooler

If you have an udp(howell, whatever) then you should have enough room to tap the very bottom of the pulley so the bottom is coming futher than the top and it will give enough to slide off. I've done this a few times. By far the easiest method for full access is to lower the passenger side of the motor down. The only problem is getting those bolts out of the motor mount inbetween the cover and the fender wall. Total bitch to work in there. What we did for easier access is to move the ac lines run right there by bending them a little so the bolts dont hit them and have enough room to come out all the way. It is the suck though. If you angle to motor up enough you won't have to do that but I was alittle worried about jacking only one side up and putting stress on the tranny and drivetrain. The crank pulley is the suck.

400whp or bust.

what do you mean by the cross member?

Here is a pic of the right pulley puller for the job. It worked perfect for me, but I did have to unbolt the motor mount and drop the engine a little to get enough clearence to pull the damn pulley out. I didn't have to unbolt the crossmember though. The number on the pulley puller is #97400B. Here is the pic.








I got the sonic if you got the boom.

crossmember is the black subframe looking thing on the drivers side of the engine. it mounts by 2 big bolts (19mm I think) underneath the radiator and 2 on the tranny/crossmember motormount and the last 2 under your car, you really only need to undo the first 2 bolts and the passenger side motor mount. it isnt that hard, 2 bolts and 2 nuts, all 17mm I believe... Note: when removing the passenger side motormount, VERY IMPORTANT, remove the vertical bolt first, put a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to support the engine, dont raise it at all yet though, just support it, now undo the 2 bolts, they are 17mm also and it's easiest to use deep well sockets for them, do not remove the nuts first, b/c you could screw out your studs, then raise the tranny a bit, undo the horizontal bolt on the actual mount, and you should easily be able to pull that bitch off of the mount/bracket, by raising and lowering the engine where there is no pressure on the motor mount, then lower the engine a few inches and the pulley will come right off..g'luck

~STV~

thankyou!