Hey,
Is it hard to change a clutch yourself, i might change mine out here in a few days and i was wondering how long it'll take? any tips? what all tools do i need? thanks.

~Talontd96~

You have to drop the entire transmission, remove the axles, and disassemble the front suspension.

If you're cool with that, it's no problem. You need regular tools, nothing special.

Whats this i hear about a clutch alignment tool? do i really need one? thanks.

All new modular clutches come with a clutch alignment tool. It's just a little plastic rod that holds the friction disk in place while you bolt the pressure plate on.

not sure what clutch you went with but my modular clutch was already bolted down. thats kinda the good thing about the modular aspect of it, its easy to install b/c you don't need to do anything. the clutch is a "pack" thats rivited together from most manufacturers. this poses a serious problem with replacing the disc and having the fly wheel resurfaced. spec is making a non modular clutch that i'd very highly recommend. if your clutch goes you replace the disc and have the fw resurf'd and your good to go. but then you will need your trustly alignment tool.

400whp or bust.

I'm puting in an Oem clutch, for now cuz im selling the car anyway..ya know why replace it with a expensive clutch when your going to sell the car lol. Where can i get a clutch alignment tool? any automotive store? like Napa or Checkers? if so whats it going to cost thanks for all the info guys laytaz.

You dont need any alignment tool with a OEM modular replacement clutch. Easy part is dropping the trans. You may want a helper to give you a hand at putting it back to the block though. Its not really that heavy, just awkward. Its approx 80-85 lbs without clutch on there. I've had my tranny out more times than I really wanted to take it out, but I got good at it. Last time took me an hour and a half by myself...Expect it to take 3-4 hours if this is your first time for this.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Here is a cut and paste of info from one of Dino's replies to a post. I followed this info and had NO problems pulling my axles (which is the first step to dropping your tyranny.)

"Take the two bolts out of the front trailing arm (90* curved suspension arm behind the front wheel) where it bolts to the frame, and the one boltfrom the lower control arm where it mounts to the frame and let them hang. Next, take the bolt out of the strut mount fork and let it come down. This'll give you enough non-alignment-disturbing suspension play (because the only thing left holding it is the tie rod balljoint and the upper a-arm balljoint) to have one person pull the hub assembly away from the car while you use a prybar between the diff housing and inner axle cups (those green things). You'll have enough room to take the axles totally out of the trans without disturbing your alignment. To completely remove the axles, take out the cotter pin in the axle hub, and use (i think a) 26mm socket to take the castle nut off the axle shaft. From there, you make be able to use a deadblow hammer to pop the axle out of the hub.
"--Dino

Tony

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