Car runs great.. noticeable diffence. Feels like throttle response is more rapid. The UDP wasn't so hard to install once I was able to get the right tools for the job.. so here are some tips:

1. Use a torch - First I tried the oven thing with cooking it in the oven at 500 degrees... but apparently it didn't get hot enough or expand enough, as when we put it on, it slipped halfway on and then stopped.. so we used a big impact gun and the crank bolt with some washers to try to screw it on, but no effect.. the crankshaft was too big and was actually digging INTO the UDP. So... after much debate we used a torch with an adapter to heat the sucker to 600 degrees. It slipped right on, no need to hammer or anything laf. Contrary to popular belief, the UDP will not warp under a torch as long as you don't apply the flame directly at it for long amounts of time.

2. 3-jaw 5 ton puller will get your original crank pulley off. I didn't get one at first, cuz we had some other pullers..but they didn't do the trick.. so finally I gave in and went to Autozone to get a puller and damn, sucker popped right off. To get the UDP off, use a harmonic balancer puller with screws instead of jaws.

3. A new tensioner bracket may not be necessary - I also did the timing belt while I was in there, as I did not want to remove the UDP after it was installed.. so I was asking around to see what other parts I needed to change with the belt. Someone somewhere said that I needed a new tensioner, bracket, and bolt, and new idler and tensioner pulleys. So after calling around and seeing that nobody had it, I went to Satan. Cost was about $150 for all of this minus the tensioner. However, when everything was apart, I saw that the bracket is actually a bracket laf. IE, a piece of metal that holds the tensioner. It was slightly rusty, but did not need replacing. I could also have saved money by just getting new bearings for the pulleys as they were in great condition at 100k miles as well. As for the bolt, I've read in the forums that alot of people's tensioner pulley bolts were breaking after 10k or so after their timing belt change, so I just got a new bolt as well. Better safe than sorry.

4. Also changed the water pump. Someone recommended a Deyeme Racing water pump with avenger radiator brackets. After receiving the water pump, comparison showed that it was not much different than the stock. Laf. It did come with a new gasket, which was nice I suppose.. but anyway, any water pump should do. The radiator brackets are NOT necessary. WTF they're literally radiator brackets that hold the radiator onto the frame. Nothing to do with the water pump.

Oh well, hope that helps.. UDP wasn't too bad.. took 3 days total because my buddies and I were learning as we went and we work slow

Sweet. Sounds like a good time. Lately I've been working on my friends car way more than man. I've had a crank pulley on and off of his 3000GT about 50 times so far. All you need for the 6G72 pulley to come off is an impact wrench and a 19mm socket, it pulls right off. All you have to do is have someone in the car holding the brakes and make sure the car in 5th gear, then sit down on the impact gun. Presto. =)


*How much did it cost to rent the puller?

"tensioner pulley bolts" - where did you buy? I can't find that tensioner pulley bolt, did you get from Satan and how much was it? TIA!

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

1. 3 Jaw 5-ton (10") puller from autozone - $40, you get it back when you return the puller

2. Tensioner pulley bolt came with the whole set from satan.. I bought the whole set like a moron, but you can prolly get them for bout 5 bucks I think if you talk to them. I don't think they'd be that expensive. Or you could take it to home depot or wherever an find a match laf. Just get a new bolt cuz I read in the searches that some ppl's bolts were breaking after their belt changes.