#69458, "valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions"
ok heres the deal, i have a used head with 2 bent intake valves on the 4th cylinder (theyre stuck open) what would i need to do to replace them? pull the cams, roller rockers, etc...i know all that, but what about installing it? i have two other used intake valves and was just going to put them in but was wondering if i should replace the seals and guides (how do i do that too?) also, will i need a valve job on the bevel of the valve seat in the head?
ive never had to do valvetrain work yet and want to take all necessary precautions.
any input is appreciated, thanks
~turby _________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca
as needles of ice are the ill winds' talons the coldest of shadows they seep unto the bone
#69519, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 4
"ok heres the deal, i have a used head with 2 bent intake valves on the 4th cylinder (theyre stuck open) what would i need to do to replace them? pull the cams, roller rockers, etc...i know all that, but what about installing it?i have two other used intake valves and was just going to put them in but was wondering if i should replace the seals and guides (how do i do that too?) also, will i need a valve job on the bevel of the valve seat in the head?"
bring it to a machine shop! to do it correct you need a machine shop!
#69570, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 5
wow, you guys are noo help.
i dont even think its bent anymore because it closes fine when the cam is turned, i dont know if the piston even hit it or not because theres not any marks on the valve where it might have hit. im pulling it out and micrometering it as we speak but yea, thanks for nothing , OBVIOUSLY a machine shop can do it, duh, but i can too.
another thing....brian, i dont have NEARLY enough flow for a new head , so thats way out of the question lol
asta, im goin to my buddys machine shop to clean the fuck out of this head
#69576, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 8
I honestly would take it to a machine shop. You really need the head cleaned, decked for flatness, and at least a 3 angle valve grind done on the valves/seats. Unless you have all this machine equipment, I dont think you can do it, unless you just want to half ass it and end up doing it later again down the road. For the work mentioned above, it costs around 200 bucks at a good machine shop. Money well spent IMO..but hey, its not my car
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#69588, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 9
yeah, to do it "right", you either need to own your own machine shop, or take it to a good one. if you lived near East TN, i could hook you up. its not that hard, and it generally would cost between 150-250 bucks as mentioned above for ALL thw work. 1999 C5 1997 Silver RS Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!) Eagle Rods T3/T4 Turbo Custom FMIC Greddy Exhaust 390's Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)
#69613, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 10
"OBVIOUSLY a machine shop can do it, duh, but i can too"
Is this your daily use car? for sure as hell i dont want to have the block or head pulled because i wanted to save a few bucks now. Just because you 'think' you can do it does not mean you will do it CORRECT! good luck Michael 99gs HRC Stage 2000 8-Injector Setup 2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp) Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269
#69644, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 11 Feb-29-04 09:26 AM by turbo8u
Originally posted by pn0ymahal "OBVIOUSLY a machine shop can do it, duh, but i can too" Is this your daily use car? for sure as hell i dont want to have the block or head pulled because i wanted to save a few bucks now. Just because you 'think' you can do it does not mean you will do it CORRECT!
you have no faith, you'd be surprised what i can do.
anyway, i got it worked out.
besides, what makes you SO sure the machine shop will even do it right? i bet dan can even attest to the retarded mother fuckers at machine shops in socal
i got a valve grinder, same thing i used on my wrist pins so its all good
#69646, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 12
Dremel tool, some duct tape, and a little bit of rtv silicon and you can do it LOL
Seriously man, take it to a good shop. If you wanna "see if you can do it" go get a piece of shit head out of a junkyard and practice on that before you tear into a nice head.
#69647, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 14
Originally posted by a_miller_76 Dremel tool, some duct tape, and a little bit of rtv silicon and you can do it LOL Seriously man, take it to a good shop. If you wanna "see if you can do it" go get a piece of shit head out of a junkyard and practice on that before you tear into a nice head.
its a USED HEAD with TWO BENT VALVES, the challenge is ever so intimidating
nevermind
_________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca
as needles of ice are the ill winds' talons the coldest of shadows they seep unto the bone
#69665, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 16
"you have no faith, you'd be surprised what i can do. anyway, i got it worked out. besides, what makes you SO sure the machine shop will even do it right? i bet dan can even attest to the retarded mother fuckers at machine shops in socal i got a valve grinder, same thing i used on my wrist pins so its all good"
hey dude, you asked for advice/input so i for one who has a built motor bottom and top knows its not as simple as you may think. 2+ other guys who know what they are saying with BUILT motors gave you input also. Im not saying you cant do it but remember what you said "ive never had to do valvetrain work yet and want to take all necessary precautions" you said that! I know dan, james and the machine shop they used... i did not use that machine shop i used a different machine shop that I looked into thats why im sure the machine shop did it right. Im not trying to piss you off man just trying to inform you. since you got it worked out cool dude. good luck
#69699, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 17 Mar-01-04 05:14 AM by turbo8u
Originally posted by pn0ymahal hey dude, you asked for advice/input so i for one who has a built motor bottom and top knows its not as simple as you may think. 2+ other guys who know what they are saying with BUILT motors gave you input also.
and did YOU build your motor? or have a shop do it? sounds to me like you had a machine shop do it. have you ever taken a 420a valvetrain apart? its not that difficult either dude. nothing more difficult than a clutch or a bottom end imo
i was just looking for a more technical answer to the question not just take it to a machine shop
its all good, i got it all done and just need a valve spring compressor to get it back in with the locks
edit: the head was already decked and hottanked and all that, new valve guides and seals
thanks for the input though i dont think you guys understand my situation though
_________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca
as needles of ice are the ill winds' talons the coldest of shadows they seep unto the bone
#69698, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD Whats ERT charge? I need some work done and my mechanic wants $7 just for damn labor... Was told this was a good price but I should probably shop around...
Base prices (just the port work): Street Port - $450 Race Port - $550 Both include a standard 3 angle valve job. We can add a 5 angle. We can get upgraded springs/retainers. We can get Stainless Steel valves. While it's apart it's a good time to replace any seals or other parts you think might need upgrading, like valvetrain.
You can shoot me an e-mail: michael@exileracing.com and we can get you a quote for the kind of work you are looking for.
Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com una salus victus It's holding down the garage floor right now.
#69714, "RE: valves, headwork, get in here i have some questions" In response to Reply # 19
"and did YOU build your motor? or have a shop do it? sounds to me like you had a machine shop do it. have you ever taken a 420a valvetrain apart? its not that difficult either dude. nothing more difficult than a clutch or a bottom end imo i was just looking for a more technical answer to the question not just take it to a machine shop its all good, i got it all done and just need a valve spring compressor to get it back in with the locks edit: the head was already decked and hottanked and all that, new valve guides and seals thanks for the input though i dont think you guys understand my situation though"
no i did not built it since i dont every want to do it again and dont have the tools etc to do it. I had a friend whos a mechanic at the mitsu dealer do it for me since he had all the tools and all. I was at his place 98% of the time learnin and helping so i know whats involved. Its not hard to built just takes time, and you need the correct tools. you see i thought you were going to install the guides and all that crap along yourself which i know is not easy. either way good luck and let us know when its up again with no problems.
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, OBVIOUSLY a machine shop can do it, duh, but i can too.
, so thats way out of the question lol
if you lived near East TN, i could hook you up. its not that hard, and it generally would cost between 150-250 bucks as mentioned above for ALL thw work.
